Still some spots on negatives.

[mporter012]

I'm still getting some spots on my negatives. After washing film, I've been putting 2 drops of photo-flo with distilled water in 8oz tank and mixing gently for 30 seconds and then hanging (in shower).

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

 

[chip j]

Try 2 caps of photo-Flo in 8 oz.

 

[Xmas]

Hi

Should have stayed on same thread.
If you need to descale kettle then when you have finished wash cycle move reel to hand was basin add two drops of surfant and agitate water with reel as stirrer until it foams.
if it don't foam add more surfant.
when you get foam shake reel dry as you can...
Then hang to dry.

That improved my results but still got occasional drying marks.

Some time later best chum asked me to get him a film squeegee I said invention of devil he said it was last hope.?

He lived in sticks so I picked a bubble wrap up for him and tried it on a test film - non prehardened ortho.

Did not get any spots or scratches but it dried in half the time.

So I relayed the information and told him I get him another bubble wraped one...

 

[Bill Burk]

Try 2 caps of photo-Flo in 8 oz.

Wait, no.. Not that much.

My wash water runs through a simple cartridge filter, so it's filtered but not enough to prevent spots.

For the final rinse, I don't measure it but use a sploosh in 16 ounces of reverse-osmosis filtered water for the final rinse.

 

[georgegrosu]

Photo-flo is put to reduce surface tension of water to film.
Not join water on film.
I put a few drops of photo-flo in water (tap) by
begin to make less foam.
It's a bit like a washing machine.
Must not be excessive detergent.
From what you say your (mporter012) should not have problems
with spots.
mporter012 - water spots are seen on the support film as white spots
round shape.
On the emulsion if is excess water remains after drying will occur as a
recess in the emulsion.
What appeared to you?

George

 

[iulian]

I use Ilford's wash aid diluted as the instructions recommend but I use reverse osmosis water for the final wash (distilled also works). Make sure your hands are freshly washed with plenty of soap, touch the film as little as possible and you should be ok.

 

[Doremus Scudder]

What a thread!

Does anyone read and follow the directions on the Photo-Flo? How about diluting it 1:200 as Kodak suggests (that is, if you have Photo-Flo 200) for starters? Especially if you are having problems...

If you do deviate from the directions (and I do), then go weaker. Certainly not two capfuls per 8 oz.! Kodak's instructions (printed on the bottle: imagine that!) say: 1 capful makes 20 fl. oz.; 3 capfuls make 1/2 U.S. gallon.

So: 1:200 makes 1ml/200ml = approx 7 oz. You can figure out how many drops that is once and then just add so many drops per 7 oz. Heck, you could go a bit weaker and add 1ml PhotoFlo per 8 oz. At any rate, at least use the manufacturer's recommendation as a starting point.

@Importer012. If you don't use enough PhotoFlo, you may still get drying marks on your negatives. Plus, you should really leave them in the distilled water longer than 30 seconds if you are doing the rest of your processing in hard(er) water.

The Photo-Flo is just a surfactant, and serves to keep the water from forming drops on the negative. If you see drops, you're not using enough Photo-Flo.

Second, Photo-Flo does not remove minerals from hard water, which can also leave drying marks. For that, you need an extended (4-5 minute) soak in fresh distilled water. I do this in one step: distilled water plus the right amount of Photo-Flo. For me, the right amount is just slightly less than the Kodak recommendation. Use the distilled water/Photo-Flo mix one-shot for this; minerals will build up in the water and eventually cause spots/marks if you don't.

Best,

Doremus

 

[georgegrosu]

Doremus Scudder - you're right concentration recommended for Photo-Flo is 1:200.
I still have Orwo F 905 goes to the same concentration.
My guess is that the concentration of this substance is not so critical for the formation
of spots on the film.
Use of distilled water for the final rinse is good, but do not think it necessary.
I personally do not use distilled water.
After F 905 solution, excess of water from the film I delete with a wet chamois.
Attention to quality chamois and the removal technique is very important.
Experience with press the chamois on the film is important.
If the film is not wiped, same areas where more water remains.
In these areas, water spots will appear.
At 35 mm film perforations are a problem area.
When you do not have a device for removing excess of water
you can delete with wet hand. Is not that efficient.
It is a little better than nothing.

George

 

[bdial]

+1 on Doremus's comments

I've found the "couple of drops into xxx oz of water" too variable, and it's really easy to get too much concentrate into your PhotoFlo mix working that way.

The easiest method I've found is to measure 1/200 of a gallon into a gallon bottle of distilled. Use that one-shot until it's empty.

 

[MattKing]

I make up a stock solution of Photo-flo - 1 oz of Photo-flo + 7 oz of 70% Isopropyl alcohol.

I then dilute that stock 1 + 24 immediately before use.

The 1 + 24 dilution at time of use is easier to do accurately. 20 ml stock plus fill to 500 ml.

The advantage of the alcohol is that it:
a) speeds drying of the film; and
b) prevents growth of mold in the stock solution.

 

[gone]

Filter your developer (if mixed from a powder) with a coffee filter and some little clean rocks in the funnel (to help w/ the pouring). Always use distilled water for every step to eliminate any issues such as mineral deposits. When you use the Photo-Flo, Kodak's directions are for 1 ml to every 16 oz. That's right, 5 times what Kodak recommends. Why? Because I was keeping drying marks in my home on my negs using 1 ml. Now I don't. OK, it may sound like too much but I NEVER get marks on my negs from pooled water. Keep all your gradients and storage bottles scrupulously clean.

After your film comes out of the Photo-Flo, whip it like a whip to displace excess water, and hang in a bathroom that you have run the shower in for a spell w/ hot water to generate a humid environment. Keep the door closed and avoid handling the film while drying "just to ck". It's a real temptation. Don't allow anyone to open the door for a couple of hours. Oh, and in the beginning, make very sure that the inside of your camera and/or bellows is dust/crap free.