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Caution: this comes from an autodidactic dilletante such as myself. But it sounds as if you are still in the process of mastering the basics of photography. Like several members said before - use your gear (a Rolleiflex TLR has been used by many pro photographers), maybe take some courses....a new camera/system will throw you back into managing its idiosyncratic features.But does zone focusing work on a Rolleiflex? And are the results ok?
Interesting! Is that THE formula for flash photography with the Rolleiflex? I'm thinking about buying a flash and do some work indoors, but I have no experience at all how to synchronize it all.
H1 for sure was developed first and foremost as a film camera. The H series evolved into a digital line, but other H series cameras may also be compatible with film backs - I'm not that familiar with the system.What is the name of Hasselblad's 645 Autofocus film camera?
H1 for sure was developed first and foremost as a film camera. The H series evolved into a digital line, but other H series cameras may also be compatible with film backs - I'm not that familiar with the system.
Fuji and Hasselblad had a partnership for the H1, and the camera was released in Japan as the Fuji GX645AF.
Yeah, still trying to figure it out. But it messes a little bit with my brain because the little glass window beneath the sports finder turns the damn world upside down...
But does zone focusing work on a Rolleiflex? And are the results ok?
In most cases, covering news shots would be at infinity, but as I recall, once you have your distance figured out zone focus works pretty well. Many news photographers in the 40s and 50s used 4X5 Speed Graphic and other press cameras without the rangefinder as they got really good at judging distance. In WWII most of the U.S Army's Speeds did not have rangefinders. I only shot a Rolliflex once or twice, don't recall how the sports finder works. With Yashica 124 and D, the front panel of the viewing hoods folds down and clicks in the down position, the back panel has a viewing slot the back window and the from window creates the spots finder. Viewing done at eye level, but no paralex correction, need to give the shot some room for imperfect viewing.
Here is a link the the yashica 124 manual, shows how the sports finder works.
The little glass window beneath the sports finder is for focusing. Only. There is a mirror behind the magnifying glass and when you deploy the sports finder, the mirror swings down. You can now focus while using the sports finder, a major problem with other sports finders. So you can have the cmaera at eye level, follow kids or such easier, and be able to check focus in the process. Not as fast and smooth as, say, an integrated rangefinder camera, but better than needing to close the sports finder, use the waist level to focus, reset the sports finder, and hope your subject hasn't moved much.Yeah, still trying to figure it out. But it messes a little bit with my brain because the little glass window beneath the sports finder turns the damn world upside down...
But does zone focusing work on a Rolleiflex? And are the results ok?
*cough*
OP said "something intuitive and relatively fast to operate", now we are talking Speed Graphic stories.
A Hasselblad is much slower to focus; the helicoid travel is slow so that the subject never "pops" quickly in focus. In addition, you need to raise the WLF (and loupe) upwards before starting to compose and focus. With the P67, you just raise the camera to your eye and the subject pops nicely in focus via the microprism.
Small kids running around is the hardest thing to focus on reliably. My AF subject-tracking Sony struggles with that.
I don't think any any medium format camera is suited to small children running around. As much as I hate to say it, a modern phone is probably the best tool for that.
Next choice would be the best AF 35mm SLR you can get, which in film is probably a Nikon F6.
Fully agree, and one of the reasons, 20+years ago, that led me to Minolta instead of Canon or Nikon in 35mm: within my limited budget at the time, Minolta (and Pentax) was the only one that wouldn't make a decision for me if I didn't want it to. I remember being particularly annoyed when other cameras decided to pop up the integrated flash when they decided to, and not when I asked...The beauty of most "auto everything" camera's, is that you can just switch it all off and go back to purely manual. Or even something in-between!
I don't think any any medium format camera is suited to small children running around. As much as I hate to say it, a modern phone is probably the best tool for that.
Next choice would be the best AF 35mm SLR you can get, which in film is probably a Nikon F6.
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