Steel reel

Greg Heath · Jan 5, 2012

Trying to wind a roll of 36 Tri-x on a steel roll in a changing bag is like ******************* under a sheet. I want my Medium format back, but I love my new Pentax H3V. Mint.
I just had to decompress. Back to developing.

George Collier · Jan 5, 2012

Well, you could use a dark bathroom. .

Greg Heath · Jan 5, 2012

I do have a darkroom and it would be easy to flip off the lights but I have a light leak on a painted window. Gotta fix that. I saw one of those free standing changing bags that's collapsible. $80. That's allot of dough.

Moopheus · Jan 5, 2012

These Noritsu dark boxes are great for loading small tanks.

ROL · Jan 5, 2012

Greg Heath said:
Trying to wind a roll of 36 Tri-x on a steel roll in a changing bag is like jerking off under a sheet.

That's a bit Racine for these forums, no? And your problem is ...that you need assistance?

Greg Heath · Jan 5, 2012

It's actually satire in motion. A bit ridiculous though I might add, I appreciate the link.

Sundowner · Jan 5, 2012

Have you tried reversing the direction of the film, and winding the tighter end on the center of the reel first?

Greg Heath · Jan 5, 2012

the biggest problem, is that I gave away one of my best reels to a friend just starting out...so all I had left was the 35mm steel reel without the wire spring at the middle. This other brand is vintage made in Germany "K" brand. I sort of never figured out how to load them, I forgot to look at the middle and threw everything into a changing bag, so I was trying to get it to work without ever having figured it out... I was in a hurry.. lots to do today. normally I can get everything done in 25 minutes or so from load to hanging it to dry. I am normally a Medium Format guy, so I was sitting there contemplating the craziness of 36 shots on a roll, while I was trying to figure out by feel how to load this style 35mm steel cage. I am so use to between 8-12 shots max on MF. I think back to when I use to do digital, and had 200+ shots on a card. that was nuts..

walbergb · Jan 6, 2012

Get a Hewes reel. The film lead attaches with the perforations. Grip and centring are a breeze.

Greg Heath · Jan 6, 2012

cool...thanks I will check it out. where did you order from ?

walbergb · Jan 6, 2012

Greg Heath said:
cool...thanks I will check it out. where did you order from ?

I got mine off e-Bay. Not as many auctions for them as the reels with the springs, so you will have to be patient. Also, you can expect to pay more for a Hewes reel, unless there is little interest in the auction. B&H in New York sells them, but the newer model uses a spring! You might try APUG's Classifieds/Want to Buy.

fotch · Jan 6, 2012

Greg, I have a couple of extra Hewes if you need some. Let me know, we could hook up in Kenosha or Burlington maybe.

jbl · Jan 7, 2012

I agree with walbergb, getting the Hewes reels really helps.

-jbl

grebmohr · Jan 8, 2012

Greg Heath said:
the biggest problem, is that I gave away one of my best reels to a friend just starting out...so all I had left was the 35mm steel reel without the wire spring at the middle.

Well say just returning to...I spent most of my high school years in the Art darkroom!!
Are you adept yet? I can use the vintage K with my butt cheeks...if you want to trade back the reels...I'm game.

Your 35mm stuff is awesome, too btw.

Finally got my dark room sealed...I gave up on sealing the 45 year old door and hung a blackout drape with a sweep seal.

Scanner might be here tomorrow!!

Aristotle80 · Jan 9, 2012

I know I'm in the minority here, but for me steel reels were much more trouble then they were worth. For years I used adjustable plastic reels with ball bearings without any problems. Every roll spooled up perfectly and easily, whether 35mm or 120. Then my photo club friends peer pressured me into trying to learn steel with a group of new students...hours of frustration for everyone and mucho wrecked film. As I understand it the practical beef against plastic reels is that they absorb chemicals. I've run a variety of chemicals through my reels and that's never been my experience. Some say that the plastic tanks break, but I think you have to be awfully violent to crack 'em open. If steel troubles you, you can go plastic without fear or shame. My 2 cents.

Jeff Kubach · Jan 9, 2012

I agree that thew Paterson reels are easlier to use.

Jeff

Terry Christian · Jan 9, 2012

Hewes reels are indeed worth every penny, but plastic reels can be just as frustrating sometimes. When I first started developing film, I started trying to do steel, but gave up ultimately and went to plastic. When I had that under my belt, I tried steel again and once I got the hang of them I loved them just as much. I just takes practice, dry hands and a dry bag, and a calm, unrushed mind. Once you get the combination of just the right amount of film bend in your muscle memory and the right rotating motion, you'll be set.

fotch · Jan 9, 2012

Aristotle80 said:
.... As I understand it the practical beef against plastic reels is that they absorb chemicals. I've run a variety of chemicals through my reels and that's never been my experience. Some say that the plastic tanks break, but I think you have to be awfully violent to crack 'em open. If steel troubles you, you can go plastic without fear or shame. My 2 cents.

Never heard that before, however, I prefer SS because they are easier to load. Also, you can reuse if wet and not fret about that they are not completely dry. I don't recommend the drop test for any photo gear, regardless of material.

The only plastic reels that I found reliable and worked for me are the JOBO. In regards to SS, the ones that always worked were the higher end Nikor, Kindermann, Hewes.

Happiness is using whatever works for you.

cmacd123 · Jan 9, 2012

fotch said:
The only plastic reels that I found reliable and worked for me are the JOBO. In regards to SS, the ones that always worked were the higher end Nikor.

The Jobo 1500 series reels are my favourite, but they are now selling at a collectable premium price. Hope They come back into production. They work best dry.

Stainless is Not too hard to load if you have JUST the right touch. I used an Nikor tank for years when I was younger, and eventually avoided getting green splotches instead of Negatives. The Film has to be placed absolutely straight in, even a little bit off will create a kink after the third turn. Once the Kink is in the film it will not load properly.

My main objection is that almost always I get little green lines in the rebate area where the film has touched the steel wire. I can minimise them by pushing the film into the reel every turn or two. This is not a serious issue as it only affects the readability of the edge print. but does not happen with the Jobo or the various Paterson or AP (Arista) reels. The older AP reels are a bit sticky to load, the newer "compact" ones are slick but the large guides get in the way of my impatient looking to see what I have when I take the film out of the fixer. The OLDER paterson ones are the best I have tried in that system.

nsurit · Jan 9, 2012

I learned on stainless steel in the middle part of the past century. Now you couldn't talk me out of my Patterson plastic reel for anything. Different strokes . . . Bill Barber

John Shriver · Jan 9, 2012

Hewes are indeed great, but you need an 18 ounce Nikkor tank to use two at once, they don't fit together in the 15 ounce tank. But, a completely straight Nikor reel is really no trouble either, but it has to be completely straight. It does take the right "touch" however.

To me, even if sometimes a bit frustrating, loading a SS reel is just part of the whole "gestalt" of processing film, and I love it all.

Steel reel

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