Want to Buy Steel print flattening plate

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Trader history for peter16 (2)

peter16

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I see these are still sold new by Talas but are very expensive for what they are.

There was a steel plate that was white and had lips at the end, can't remember if it was made by Calumet or Zone 6 or printfile but does anyone have one of those they could part with for a reasonable price?
11x14 or smaller is all I need.
 

Todd Barlow

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No quite on point, but if you can’t find what you are looking for, I have been told that a stone counter top supplier may have sink cutouts that provide the size and weight with a smooth surface.
 
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peter16

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Thanks yea – lots of things would work, I just know a few things were made that were designed for this.

I'm located in southern California, Los Angeles area.
 

Roger Thoms

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I’ve used both and much prefer my 3/4 stone counter top sink cut out. I did square it up on my tile wet saw and eased the edges over with low speed right angle grinder and carborundum sanding disks. Lot of work but I got the cutout for free.

An alternative would be a marble pastery board. I also have one of those that I got for making tortillas. Ready made, no fabrication necessary.

Roger
 

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mshchem

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I have several Seal brand plates for use in dry mounting. They're marvelous, very heavy plates with handles. Find used. Mine are at least 40 years old
 

Roger Thoms

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I have several Seal brand plates for use in dry mounting. They're marvelous, very heavy plates with handles. Find used. Mine are at least 40 years old

Yes, the Seal plates are excellent, that’s what I used in school, I just like stone better, it’s heavier and flatter, plus I tend to favor diy solutions.

Roger
 

eli griggs

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Be careful of stones of Granite, as there can be holes below the surface 'plate'.

My wife worked for a large stone & tile shop and I have a number of Granite slabs I use, from cutting boards, work bench surfaces, a pair of enlarger boards, a single piece, 3' x 9' outdoor work surface/layout bench and an assortment of counter sink cutouts, and while I must use my hands to find by feel, these 'defects' are frequently found in many panels, in my experience.

There are a number of ways, materials that can save the surface defects from affecting your use of the slabs, which will you to fill in the voids and finish the 'caulking' so it blends into the polished stone surface in the Granite.

One way to avoid these defects is to hand inspect the stone, with finished, chamfered edges and a powerful flashlight or a laser level.

You can avoid the need to do any of this is by buying new, quality "surface plates" made for Machinist tool rooms to use, but be aware there are several surface/stone ratings, you'll want to know so you don't spend money on to high or lowly quality stone for your use.

Have fun, Eli
 
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peter16

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i ended up ordering a piece of .19 inch steel from Grainger - am going to use the metal shop at school to bend up two angles on the ends for handles.

Below was what I was trying to find - but I guess maybe it was some custom made thing also. One person on Large Format had a seal one for $100 but after paying for shipping it wouldn't really make sense - plus they are square which i didn't like.

IMG_5652.jpg
 

Hassasin

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i ended up ordering a piece of .19 inch steel from Grainger - am going to use the metal shop at school to bend up two angles on the ends for handles.

Below was what I was trying to find - but I guess maybe it was some custom made thing also. One person on Large Format had a seal one for $100 but after paying for shipping it wouldn't really make sense - plus they are square which i didn't like.

View attachment 361674

0.19 in steel plate? DIdn't you need something as flat as possible? Rolled steel plates are not generally thought of as ... flat in this sense. You may get lucky with the section cut for you, but I would have a shop run a mill over both sides to actually make it flat.
 

Hassasin

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Be careful of stones of Granite, as there can be holes below the surface 'plate'.

There are epoxy fillers to close up any pours in the surface, then polish flat again. If purpose is explained to a shop, they will know how to handle it and make it as flat as tooling allows.
 

eli griggs

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i ended up ordering a piece of .19 inch steel from Grainger - am going to use the metal shop at school to bend up two angles on the ends for handles.

Below was what I was trying to find - but I guess maybe it was some custom made thing also. One person on Large Format had a seal one for $100 but after paying for shipping it wouldn't really make sense - plus they are square which i didn't like.

View attachment 361674
For smaller prints, I suggest you give the highly polished, heavy aluminum, automotive mixing board a good lookover.


https://www.harborfreight.com/mixin...Fryj3JRakCUfQJqZ5cbiEkuHa7UFUA_oaAovqEALw_wcB
 

eli griggs

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There are epoxy fillers to close up any pours in the surface, then polish flat again. If purpose is explained to a shop, they will know how to handle it and make it as flat as tooling allows.

You're likely correct, but I've never really trusted fillers of epoxy, etc.
 

eli griggs

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The specs say it's "1.42 lb" which is, in my opinion a smart little piece of Aluminum, but others will have different ideas as to the topic.
 

Bill Burk

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From the “Don’t overlook what you already have” department - A dry mount press does a real good job. With the power off.

Not sure if you already have one, but many of us do.
 

Roger Thoms

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From the “Don’t overlook what you already have” department - A dry mount press does a real good job. With the power off.

Not sure if you already have one, but many of us do.

That’s what we use down at Harvey Milk Photo Center. It’s a very old Seal press that I assume is broken, works well for keeping the prints flat after they come out of the working press.

Roger
 

MTGseattle

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I would source a quartz(or other man-made) countertop scrap. easy to cut, easy to ease the edges, heavy and should be free or cheap in southern CA. If worried about chemicals or other contaminants, still use 2 sheets of 100% rag archival mat board as a "sandwich."
 

Pieter12

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I think the heat conductivity of steel is a factor along with weight in producing nice flat prints after they leave a hot press. I don't know if any of the alternate solutions works as well. I know that even leaving my prints under a 10" stack of heavy photo books overnight is OK, but not perfect.
 

darkroommike

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I see these are still sold new by Talas but are very expensive for what they are.

There was a steel plate that was white and had lips at the end, can't remember if it was made by Calumet or Zone 6 or printfile but does anyone have one of those they could part with for a reasonable price?
11x14 or smaller is all I need.

I've also seen plates like that with handles and a gray "granite" paint job that were pair by the Seal Drymount Press people. My school darkroom had a couple but no working drymount press. I was always tripping over the damn things so I put them way under a counter somewhere. I've also used a laminate counter sink cutout.
 
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