Starting my first development.

[baachitraka]

I have no idea where to start. I basically shoot IlFord or Kodak film, but I have no idea about which developer to use.

I like to see slight contrast photos at the end...

 

[Rick A]

I think a good all around easy to use developer like D-76 is a good place to start. Once mixed to stock solution, you can use straight or dilute. An inexpensive stop bath (tho some say not necessary) is next to use, followed by a fixer. I like non-hardening alkaline fixers, they wash out faster and last longer, I use Photographers Formulary TF-4. There are many good brands of chems, and everyone has their favorite. My advice is to pick one and then one film and get to know what the combination will allow you to do before experimenting around.
Contrast is a matter of your shooting style and how you expose for it. Learning to read lighting situations and adjusting exposure for what you are trying to achieve.

 

[markbarendt]

First thing to understand, they all work just fine.

Second thing to understand, they all take a bit of practice.

First recommendation, get comfortable with normal; box speed exposure, standard development, and normal printing.

Second recommendation, get a normal mainstream developer like Xtol or ID11/D76. This wy when you have a question there will be plenty of answers available.

Third, don't sweat it too much

 

[guitstik]

What they said but caffeinated.

 

[K-G]

As you live in Germany I would recomend you to take a look at the web-site for Fotoimpex , Berlin .
They have whatever you need and if you send them a mail or give them a call they may be able to help you. Good luck !

Karl-Gustaf


http://www.fotoimpex.de/

http://forum.fotoimpex.de/

 

[LCEL]

A good start is to find some books on film development and enlarging, there are plenty to find in a secondhand bookstore for a fraction of the new price.
Also keep an eye out for the small advertisements in the local newspapers for enlargers, developing tanks, trays etc.
Use fresh chemicals and paper.

Once you see your first image appear in the developing tray, your hooked!

Best regards,
LCEL.

 

[Juri]

You should specify weather you are planning to develop film or print on paper. Because if the whole process is new to you, then I'd say it's abit too early for printing. I've been messing with film since February and only starting with enlarging and developing paper. A nice place for equipment and supplies in Germany is http://www.macodirect.de/.

 

[baachitraka]

I pretty confused now. I know it is nice to have darkroom at home but I have to evaluate the cost and design of the root itself. I think, I will start small with developing film.

My boss gave me one Jobo tank with a reel for 35mm film but I have no idea whether it takes medium format film too. But, the reel seems pretty old and I try to load the developed film but it hardly moves in.

So, my initial requirements are everything except the tank.

 

[markbarendt]

Put the word out to everybody in your world that you want to try this and like with your boss you may find everything you need cheap or free. My best enlarger and JOBO CPA2 came this way, he just hadn't used it in years and wanted it gone.

 

[baachitraka]

I will be happy to get the list of required equipment's for developing film. I am partial to platinum tones and wondering whether tones are applied during development of negative or during prints.

 

[trexx]

My boss gave me one Jobo tank with a reel for 35mm film but I have no idea whether it takes medium format film too. But, the reel seems pretty old and I try to load the developed film but it hardly moves in.

The Jobo reels load differently then other plastic spirals. You push in the film and then move the film forward by using the section of the spiral that is cut out. Place a finger on one side turn the other side. Then use a finger on other hand, turn, repeat. Practice in the light with scrap film

and yes it will hold 120/220 it comes apart and adjust.

 

[Juri]

I will be happy to get the list of required equipment's for developing film. I am partial to platinum tones and wondering whether tones are applied during development of negative or during prints.

I'll try to give a brief overview of what you need. First you have to put the film on the reel in complete darkness, a dark room or a bag is necessary for that. To open a film cassette you need an opener (I use a beer cap opener) and then scissors to cut the film from the spool. Then you put the film onto the reel of the developing tank and close it before exposing it to light.

For the chemicals you probably need a measuring jug and 3 containers for developer, stop bath and fixer. A timer is necessary to acieve the correct developing and fixing time. In order to make sure the temperature of the chemicals is right you need a thermometer. I personally also fill a large jug with tap water at the correct temperature, so I can use it at any time without worrying too much about temperature. Distilled water or wetting agent should be used for last wash. When the developing is done, you have to hang the film for drying, so you need some kind of clips and dust-free place to allow film dry properly.

The tonality depends mostly on film and developer used. I personally don't consider the tonality of film to be very important, as films are not so different in that aspect.

There are plenty of detailed tutorials for film developing, just use Google.
http://www.google.ee/search?hl=en&q=how+to+develop+film&oq=how+to+develop+film&aq=f&aqi=g10&aql=undefined&gs_sm=e&gs_upl=4936l13100l0l20l17l0l2l2l0l289l2351l0.3.7l10

 

[pbromaghin]

I just started processing film a few months ago. There are many videos on youtube that were very helpful.

 

[P C Headland]

When you're starting out, pick one film and one developer. You'll want to choose whichever film and developer is easy for you to get hold of. Given where you are, you should have a reasonable choice. My preference is for "one-shot" liquid developers, like Rodinal or HC-110.

The Jobo reel loads by alternately twisting each side, with your thumbs near the "guides" (the wider tabs at the start of the reel), and you sort of "walk" the film onto the reel. If you meet some resistance, pull the film back a little and try again. Try doing this a few times with some scrap film until you are comfortable doing it. Then try with your eyes closed. The reels can accommodate 35mm and 120 film.

When I load 120 film, I always remove the backing paper first, then load the film. Some people prefer to load the film and remove the backing paper at the same time. When I load 35mm film, I load it direct from the cannister - I find it less "messy", particularly with 36 exposure film. Others prefer to remove the film from the cannister first.

There are quite a few sites with video tutorials, which will give you a good idea as to what to do.

Get the basics sorted first before you move onto more complex processes.

Good luck!

 

[baachitraka]

I was reading, The Negative - Ansel Adams. His obvious choice is HC-110 too and after reading I now in a place to sort out the choice of developers for landscape and portraits. Good book to read, indeed.