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Starting Darkbag supplies...

Zedwardson

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Jul 7, 2014
Messages
102
Format
35mm
I will not be printing at the moment, but plan to get a darkbag and get to film processing.

I stopped using film about five years ago, and I am coming back. But I need to get the equipment.

What am I missing from the list? (other then chemicals)

Patterson style development tank
Dark Bag
Thermometer
clips
graduated vessel
Jugs to store the fixer (I use a one use developer)
anything else I am forgetting?
 
Yes gloves are important.

I just recycle ex screen washer fluid plastic bottles for hypo bath a bath b and hypo clear.

And a film squeegee - film dries quicker

Bulk loader and cine or bulk can for specialist film or cheap
 
Scissors and perhaps a cassette opener, if you're processing 35mm film in non-reloadable cassettes. A funnel isn't necessary with a Paterson-style tank (although I'd prefer to replace it with a steel tank and Hewes reels).
 
Having paid through the nose for my first set of darkroom equipment, I would now suggest you look online for second hand equipment. You will likely find plenty of people selling their entire darkroom supplies for very little. It might be a bit dusty but will cost a fraction of the same stuff new.
 
A timer. But a simple kitchen timer will work just as well as a darkroom one (and you don't need to worry about whether or not it emits light).
 
I mix my stock chemistry in 1 gallon plastic bottles (jugs), one bottle for each chemical. I use those 1 gallon bottles that windshield washer comes in for the automobile. Those bottles are only opened to make the working solution as needed. The working solution bottles are 32oz plastic photo-chemical bottles (brown), one for each working chemical.

So, here's my tally . . .
One gallon bottles (stock) . . . (3) Developer, Fixer, Photo-Fo.
32 oz bottles (working) . . . (3) Developer, Stop, Fixer

You could get away with fewer bottles, depending on your own working methods.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
From my workshop notes:

I like to think of darkroom equipment in three categories:

Absolutely Essential

  • Developing tank and reels (critical)
  • Accurate thermometer (critical)
  • A completely dark room OR a changing bag (critical)
  • film cap remover (for 35mm)
  • measuring cylinders or beakers
  • chemical storage bottles
  • funnel
  • stop clock/watch/timer
  • film clips
Nice To Have

  • scissors
  • negative storage bags
  • stirring rod (for mixing chemicals)
Luxuries

  • temperature controlled water bath
  • mechanized processor
 
BradS said:
The Patterson tank has a funnel built into the lid.
Click to expand...

But the bottles that you may be pouring chemicals (fixer?) back into won't .
 
A changing tent is even better than a changing bag.

And even better? A closet or room you can make dark.

If you are using plastic reels, a hair dryer to ensure that they are dry. And an old toothbrush to scrub them from time to time.

I use the bottom tray from a dish drainer to protect my counter.
 

Let's just set him/her up with a whole darkroom then! :munch:
 
David Brown said:
Yes, quicker and with scratches ...
Click to expand...

web rumour - not had a scratch in a decade: and I use softer emulsions like forma: YMMV.

there is always one in local shop.
 
A clip or two to hang the film with and something to hang them from.
Some orange juice or pop bottles are made with plastic that doesn't breathe.
 
Xmas said:
web rumour - not had a scratch in a decade: and I use softer emulsions like forma: YMMV.

there is always one in local shop.
Click to expand...

I had to switch from using a squeegee because I didn't have any problem with scratches, but I did have a problem with watermarks from the squeegee not squeegeeing evenly...

Photo flo or its equivalent in other and names solved that problem quickly.
 

I need to use surfant and squeegee to avoid drying marks, the unexpected gain was much faster drying.
 
Like David said.

I would also stress the importance of an accurate thermometer. It's worth spending some money/time to make sure you get a good thermometer.

I was lucky enough to find an electronic termometer which is (truly) accurate to +-0.1 C for both B&W and C41.
 
Well I picked up everything I needed except for the developer, which is on the way from freestyle. Thank you for the help.
 
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