Stand Development Observations

I agree with Steve Sherman. It is very difficult to get perfect results with pure stand development, where the negative receives no agitation at all after the initial agitation. It may seem to work fine with some subjects, say those that have a lot of texture in the scene and no large area of even tones.However, if you do a critical test, say shoot a scene with a foreground of trees, a clear open blue sky, and a white building, I think you will find that it is almost impossible to get perfectly even results.

If you are indeed getting very even development with pure stand development you are fortunate as most photographers have not been so lucky.

That said, you can increase the odds of success by using a very diluted developer. For example, if the normal dilution is 1:1:100, you might try 1:1:400, with very long development times.

Sandy King

Steve Sherman said:

It might help those of us who would like to help if we understood exactly what you hope to accomplish by using a reduced agitation development or specifically Stand development.

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In brief, stand, or development to completion, or full development is a method that can avoid blown highlights and yet bring up a lot of shadow detail. That's what I, or anyone doing this, wants to accomplish.

Actually, I just added to this thread, I never had a goal to post here other than a good time!

sanking said:

I agree with Steve Sherman. It is very difficult to get perfect results with pure stand development, where the negative receives no agitation at all after the initial agitation. It may seem to work fine with some subjects, say those that have a lot of texture in the scene and no large area of even tones.However, if you do a critical test, say shoot a scene with a foreground of trees, a clear open blue sky, and a white building, I think you will find that it is almost impossible to get perfectly even results.

Sandy King

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Very true, Sandy. I've not put the negs on the enlarger; the "darkroom" is way to freaking hot lately. Man, I hate Florida.

When I discovered slightly mottling in a divided developer, I was able to avoid it by one or two slow inversions, or just rotating the tank on its side 90-120 degrees now and then.

Steve!

Steve Sherman said:

It might help those of us who would like to help if we understood exactly what you hope to accomplish by using a reduced agitation development or specifically Stand development.

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My big error on previous post. I thought I was in the other recent thread.

Mea culpa!

The roll of Plus-X is drying now, seems to be OK from what I can see. Will know more in few hours when I can look at the negative on the lightbox.

Here is what I did...

Pre-wash for a few minutes. 500ml of Rodinal 1:100. 1 full minute of inversions at the beginning. Let stand for 59 minutes. Water Bath. Fix for 4 minutes.

Let you know more soon...

Thanasis said:

p3200TMZ said:

Paul,
So far I have only tried stand development with Efke 25 and 50. I will be trying Pan F and Plus-X later this week, both in 135.

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I'd be interested to hear about your results from stand-development of Plus-X.

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p3200TMZ said:

The roll of Plus-X is drying now, seems to be OK from what I can see. Will know more in few hours when I can look at the negative on the lightbox.

Here is what I did...

Pre-wash for a few minutes. 500ml of Rodinal 1:100. 1 full minute of inversions at the beginning. Let stand for 59 minutes. Water Bath. Fix for 4 minutes.

Let you know more soon...

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Ok. Thanks for the reply. I assume this was all at 20 degrees Celsius? I'm looking forward to seeing the results. I also checked out your website and you have some made some fantastic photographs!