Stand developing TMY-2/400?

Has anyone experimented with stand developing TMY-2 400 in TMAX Developer or XTOL?

Can someone suggest some starting times and possibly comment on the results?


thanks in advance

Are you talking just xtol/tmax? or xtol rodinal mix- the later works brilliantly but it requires meticulous care when making the pre stand inversions. Resulting negs are very thin but super sharp, with open shadows and silvery tones. Also gives very high effective film speed -iso 500-640 Probably better for scanning than wet darkroom though-- given the afore mentioned thinness and fairly low contrast. I haven't had a chance to really get into it, but here's one of my examples
http://www.flickr.com/photos/radiodaedalus/3827195517/

Stephen Shaub wrote up a how to on his blog
http://figitalrevolution.com/2009/07/31/standing-development-part-1/

Michael R 1974:

"Since you can achieve pretty extreme contrast reduction effects with "regular" compensating procedures, what additional qualities does stand development provide?"

In my experience stand development can produce much a stronger compensating effects than regular development with a one shot developer. You get results similar to a 2-bath developer. There also is the issue of sharpness. Again you get some pretty interesting results from this technique.

I did this a few years back with Rodinal and APX100. Very interesting results. Huge tonality with very open shadows and fill highlights and razor sharp.

Just straight xtol or tmax, but thanks for the links. I'll also take a look at the Xtol/Rodinal cocktail.

it's great if you should a roll with varied exposures eg. a night shot next to a day shot next to a low contrast shot. street lights in the night shot don't blow out, day shots print well at around G2.5 and the low contrast can be printed around G3 ( from experience ).

william mortensen is definitely the resource to persue on the subject. his idea of the ideal neg is amazing, utilizing the tonal characteristics of the materials themselves ( neg and developer ). there are some references on the net about his procedures.

Harry, i'm not sure if tamx400 would be the best choice but by no means the worst either. i think tri-x 400 will give you those particular qualities you spoke of more so... i did some tmax400 35mm one time ( rodinal 1:200 1 hr ) and it wasn't anything different from 1:100 and a normal inversion regime. diluted rodinal and apx100 is a unique combo - not impossible to simulate in terms of sharp, clean almost gritty look. have you every tried crawley's fx-1? at 1:1:10 and normal ( say, every minute or every other minute) times ( around 10 - 14 min ) gives amazing negs, comparable to what your describing, especially the new films. also pyrocat M ( not necessary in glycol, just the metol version ) at 1:1:200 as a semistand ( anything from gentle agitations every 5 min onwards for about 40 minutes ) gives full shadows at speed ( acros ei 80, tri-x ei400 etc )

thanks el wacho

I'm just going to give TMY2 in TMAX dev a shot. I think I'll start with 30 minutes and see what happens.

I haven't tried crawley's fx-1. Can you explain what 1:1:10 means? 1 to 1 dev and 10 min?

1:1:10 is 1 part of solution A, 1 part solution B, and 10 parts water. So for example, 5ml A plus 5ml B plus 50ml water.
For serious stand development, you should try pyrocat-HD. I have tried Xtol, TMax, HC110, D-76, and they don't have the edge effect that pyrocat does.

I develop TMY-2 roll film in Harvey's 777 for 1/2 hour at 72 degrees. I agitate continuously for the first minute, and then for 10 seconds after 15 minutes. That's it. For the rest of the 30 mins. it stands. Negatives are beautifully smooth, virtually grainless and very sharp. Not as sharp as what you'd get with Pyrocat semi-stand, but for negatives to enlarge such meta-sharpness would make my prints a little too edgy IMHO. I rate my TMY-2 for exposure at 200.