Stand develop Konica 750?

[glbeas]

Im curious if anybody has tried stand developing Konica 750 in Rodinal, any recommendations or observations. Im think of this to help with the contrasty behavior. I have found that Technidol gives superior results, but I dont have that much Technidol left and a lot of Konica to shoot.

 

[gorbas]

Gary, I'm curious too! Have just one roll of Konica 750 and would like to use it soon with to compare it with Rollei 400 and IR720 filter. What is your regular Rodinal ratio and time? You can use Rodinal 1:100 and less frequent agitation? Agitate every 2 or3 or X minutes. A few years back I did test run with few emulsions and Rodinal stand and I did not like results at all. You can make your own Pota or Delagi low contrast developer from The film developing cookbook but I think it's extreme measure. D-23 1:1 is very nice too. I liked it with Tmax 100. Very simple to make.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

If I had any Konica 750 (I used a lot of it in the 90's), I'd try it semi-stand in Pyrocat-HD. But seriously, if you're just trying to tame contrast, just give more exposure, and less time in the developer. Pre-exposure also helped a lot.

 

[glbeas]

I looked on the Massive Developing Chartand saw figures for Rodinal 1:100 but it was not for stand developing. Not at all sure if 1:200 would have enough active developer in it to do the job. I have a roll I pulled out of the Bronica that had been there a few years and wanted to see if the images are worth the work.

 

[removed account4]

hi gary

im not going to be much help,( i have never used konica film before ) but vit c developers
tend to reduce contrast. i'd just use xtol and agitate normally because it tends to tame contrast whenever i used to use it ...
i'd also suggest using caffenol c with a shake of dektol or ansco130 ... and stand develop it for about 30mins ..
that works for me with pretty much any film, any light ... bromide drag sometimes happens though so ymmv
good luck !
john

 

[glbeas]

I went ahead and tried out 3ml of rodinal in 500ml water, about 1:160 for an hour semistand. The roll didnt fare well sitting in the camera back all this time, high base fog and really annoying kinks from being wounds around inside the back. Had a couple of maybe printable images on it, glad I didnt waste my Technidol on it.

 

[glbeas]

I scanned the best image and corrected a few problems, its in the gallery now. Maybe with some film not so tortured I’ll have better results. There was a pretty good density gradient from one side to another Im pretty sure can be attributed to bromide drag, no streaks though. It was an interesting experiment, it let me see what can happen.

 

[Punker]

I shot a roll last year or the year before and did Rodinal 1+50 for 6:30. Exposed at ISO 1.5 with a 740nm wratten gel over the film back. I think ISO 0.8 would have been better. Edge markings were even a little darker than normal. Maybe 6 minutes would be better.

 

[Punker]

Oh shoot you already tried it. I guess I should've read the post until the end. Well I'll leave my previous post up for posterity.

Glad you got a couple good ones!

 

[glbeas]

I do like your shots Punker. Youve got good tonal separation even with the contrast, I can see the separate leaves on the plants easily. I hope my next roll looks as good.

 

[Punker]

I look forward to seeing it!

 

[glbeas]

Punker, heres a shot for you. I tried a roll at your values but found it to be too contrasty so I did this one at 5.5 minutes and got way better results. There were still some hot spots and maybe the film could be developed a little less. Theres figures on the Massive Developing chart for 5 minutes at 68f which may work even better. Im going to try my next roll at that.

 

[RJ-]

Gary - the 1:50 dilution is working reasonably well for you. Being in the northern hemisphere, our IR sunlight is still not as fierce.

A 740nm cut off filter is inherently going to lead to a more contrasty image, compared to a 715nm cut off filter or a B+W 092 type. A Red 29 is easier to use if uncertain, since there will always be some image density formed below the cut off wavelength, reducing the contrast - as you've realised, Konica Infrared is expressive for infrared, even with lower near infrared cut off wavelengths. Classically, the film responded with mild infrared characteristics even with orange filtration.

If you wished to go to the more diluted end, exposing the base ISO at 1 stop slower than Konica's recommendation for sunny f11 conditions, then Rodinal 1:70 dilution at 21C for 8 minutes works, if your film expired in the 2004 end date range. The contrast is tamed by shooting below ISO16 instead of the nominal ISO32 in conjunction with diluting the developer further.

The semi-stand principle is probably fine - since the reduced agitation principle is important as an element in reducing the contrast control further - although do examine your negatives for uneven edge effects. The easiest way to surmount this challenge, is to use a larger volume of working diluted solution, beyond 360ml for a 1x35mm roll, or 500ml for a 120 roll, and agitating only by an alternating encircling and gentle piston method twice during the development time after the first minute.

When 1:100 dilutions of Rodinal are used, the problem of base fog expression becomes too great to control the highlight densities, as a result of the longer times. A little odd as a ratio, although 1:70 dilution works very well; for 5x rolls of 120, this works out as 35mm neat Rodinal [Original - not R09] in 2,500ml water.

Kind regards,
RJ