Stand dev hp5

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Markok765

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i would like a really grainy neg with hp5. my 2 devs are d76 and rodinal. i was thinking stand dev with 1:200 rodinal. my questions are.
1.how long to dev at 68 F
2.do i need to change the dev(dunp it and fill with fresh to avoid exausting)
3:what can i expect?
Thanks a lot!
Marko Kovacevic
 

P C Headland

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I can't comment on D76 as I don't use it.

Stand development in dilute Rodinal tends to minimise grain, not accentuate it. It also ensures that highlights are not blown, while still bringing out detail in the shadow areas, and strengthening the edge effects. This has at least been my experience with 120 film (6x6 and 6x9). You do not need to worry about exhausting or changing the developer (Rodinal)

If you want larger grain, I think you need to use a lower dilution (1+25), and/or push the film slightly (which will also increase contrast). An increase in temperature (with corresponding shortening of development time) I think also increases grain. Perhaps someone with more expertise than myself can comment?

Is this for 35mm or 120?

For times, check out the Massive Development Chart.
 

jim appleyard

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I can't comment (or don't dare to) re: stand dev as my luck with it has been, at best, mediocre. As for D-76, it is not going to give you grain. Even if you dilute it 1+3, it will not give you "really" grainy negs. I would also go with Rodinal, perhaps even more concentrated than 1+25.

Another option is to shoot T-Max 3200 or Delta 3200 and soup in Rodinal.

Or, shoot 3200 with a wide angle lens, soup in Rodinal and then enlarge the image way up. That ought to do it!
 
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Markok765

Markok765

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jim appleyard said:
I can't comment (or don't dare to) re: stand dev as my luck with it has been, at best, mediocre. As for D-76, it is not going to give you grain. Even if you dilute it 1+3, it will not give you "really" grainy negs. I would also go with Rodinal, perhaps even more concentrated than 1+25.

Another option is to shoot T-Max 3200 or Delta 3200 and soup in Rodinal.

Or, shoot 3200 with a wide angle lens, soup in Rodinal and then enlarge the image way up. That ought to do it!
I was wondering for times for hp5 in rodinal 1:200, the massive dev chart only goes to 100 and thats with normal dev not stand. i was thinking 2 hours in 1:200
 

poutnik

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Marko, I usually lenghten the times for normal agitation by around 33% - 40% for my stand development as initial try. The first roll (120) is sometimes good, sometimes a little worse. But it's a good start. For the more dilluted soup, you could try extrapolating times provided for 1+25, 1+50, 1+100. If you make an error, it's usually small and will not destroy your images - the difference between 60min and 75min is just 25%...

(I use R09, which practically is Rodinal. So far I haven't developed HP5+, but have 10rolls in the fridge waiting to be enlightened... :smile:

So good luck and post your results
 

Roger Hicks

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Overexpose by a stop or two. That will increase grain size. It will also reduce sharpness slightly, but you can't have everything.

For really big grain, try paper developer.

Cheers,

Roger
 

Lachlan Young

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IIRC Barry Thornton was very critical of the use of paper developer to build grain because of its habit of boosting contrast - instead he recommended a generously exposed and flat negative printed at a high contrast to make the grain really stand out. To do this try and get some Neofin Blue (try jandc) which is a speed increasing compensating developer (ie it is quite low contrast) now expose your roll of HP5+ at about box speed. To mix the developer dilute it to the required volume to fill your tank - if it is a Paterson tank use 550ml of water and the contents of one of the 50ml bottles of Neofin Blue. Your development time is likely to be about 30 minutes or so - try a test roll first! You can either leave the tank to stand after 1 minute initial agitation - for this procedure leave the tank for about an hour or so - or follow the instructions on the packet for a variety of intermittent or continuous agitations. The final negative will be generously exposed and have relatively low contrast so you can print on reasonably hard papaer to make the grain really stand out - I strongly reccomend you get Barry Thornton's book 'Edge of Darkness' which explains all this lucidly and in great detail - the chapters on development and developers are especially good!

Hope this helps and hasn't confused you too much! :smile:

Lachlan

P.S. you can get the book HERE.
 
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