ST-1/Sodium Sulphide in the UK

[Stan160]

I would like to verify that my prints are being correctly fixed, as I have bought a quantity of C-41 rapid fixer which comes with no documentation for B&W materials.

The way, or at least a way, to do this seems to be with a solution of sodium sulphide, which reacts with any silver in the paper to form a brown silver sulphide stain.

Problem is, I haven't found a UK supplier for sodium sulphide, or the ST-1 test. Does anyone know somewhere I can buy it? Alternatively, I have a large tub of sodium sulphite - is there a relatively easy and safe way of turning some of that into sodium sulphide?

Thanks,
Ian

 

[Anon Ymous]

In case you can't find it anywhere, you might consider buying a Kodak Sepia toner. Part B is just Sodium Sulphide IIRC.

 

[Martin Aislabie]

http://www.silverprint.co.uk/ProductByGroup.asp?PrGrp=548 - VIRADON BROWN TONER 125ml.

Viradon is used to make Silver Suphide

Martin

 

[Anon Ymous]

Alternatively, you can get Kodak's J1 tech pub from here. Go to page 41 and you'll see that you can use KRST as a replacement for ST1.

 

[Stan160]

Alternatively, you can get Kodak's J1 tech pub from here. Go to page 41 and you'll see that you can use KRST as a replacement for ST1.

So if I understand correctly, if I can tone my prints with 1+9 selenium and not see any kind of staining then there is no residual unfixed silver in the paper?

Useful test, as I selenium tone the majority of my prints.

Thanks,
Ian

 

[Anon Ymous]

Well, if the border gets stained, then it wasn't properly fixed. I guess it forms silver selenide, just like you would get silver sulfide (the sepia tone) when sepia toning.

 

[dancqu]

I would like to verify that my prints are being correctly fixed, ...
Problem is, I haven't found a UK supplier for sodium sulphide,
or the ST-1 test. Does anyone know somewhere I can buy it?
Alternatively Thanks, Ian

I've an off-the-wall method in mind. A sulfide toning method
used for the sepia toning of prints. The print may be first or last
be soaked in vinegar and first or last given a soak in clean fixer.
The acidity initiates the decomposition of the fixer resulting in
the formation of silver sulfide.

I've not played with the method but intend to. All in all
similar to a Hypo-Alum toning though minus the alum
and high temperatures. Sepia toning confers the
greatest longevity to prints and film. Dan