I agree with Nick's suggestion of ttl flash, I don't know if the FM2n supports it or not. IMO bayonet mount lenses are much easer to handle than the Pentax screw mount lenses.
I also agree with Nick about considering a zoom instead of the 50, unless you need the speed. I have a 35 - 105 which is what is on the camera most of the time. My 50 is probably the least used of my lenses. The 35-105 is slower than the 35-70 (f3.5), but either would be very useful, especially for events where you might not have a lot of flexibility for moving around.
Besides, if you're using flash, then you might not need the speed.
my $0.02
I also thought about the MF v. AF question, and think that in the end if I really need AF, then it's going to be in a situation I would need digi as well. I like simple mechanical cameras because they help me keep my stress level low. I know I waste a few seconds here and there because of manual settings, but again, the stakes are not that high.
I suggested the F4 because it's a great MF body. The ability to stick AF lenses on it is just a bonus.
I've done little in the way of freelance work thus far, but I'll ask it: why do you think it's necessary to switch to digital work? Perhaps if you were working regularly as a photographer or as a photojournalist, it would make sense, but I'm not convinced that at the very least for the occassional freelancer that film is a bad option. Those SMC Takumar lenses are pretty snappy lenses - I would hazard a guess that they're probably better than lower end DSLR equipment. I'd suggest that you round out your lens set with an 85mm for portraits (a beautiful lens, and they can be had for as little as $150), and a new 28mm. If you start working regularly, digital may make sense, but film with the right lenses is just as high, or even higher quality than digital (keep in mind that digital has a worse dynamic range), and a fraction of the cost.
Why is the F3 better?
I would gain:
* Bayonet mount, slightly faster lenses (35 and 105)
* 1/250 flash sync => ability to do fill flash
* Reliability, ease of repair, available parts
* Motor drive option
* Less gear on my shelf
The F3 outsold the F4 and was discontinued after the F4 was gone. Someone apparently thought the F4 was not a "replacement" for an F3.
A "good condition" user F3 goes for $200-$225, a really nice one (cosmetically) for $300. They also use auto lenses. They're built like tanks. What exactly is wrong with an auto flash like the Vivitar 283?
I have to cast a vote for the FE2. Great camera, simple to use, rugged. With the SB16B you get TTL auto flash, which is very accurate, in my experience.
I didn't mean to restrict the flash choices to the SB16; indeed, my SB800 does work in TTL with my FE2. Should have said that.Maybe one should add...... And newer, up to at least the SB28 (I would expect youll get TTL with the SB800 too).
The FE2 is a great little camera but I like the diode in the FM range better than the needle in the FE's.
Kind Regards
Søren
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?