quickie advice on life with a spot meter
For B&W negative material -meter for the darkest area you want to retain detail in. Then check out how high up the area that you want details in. If it exceeds the number of stops you have, then you need to, depending on the circumstances
- try another time when lighing contrast is lower (think just before sunset, or just after sunrise).
- fire up a reflector option to brighten the shadows, if the subject is mall enough
- fire up a diffuser or screen to bring down the specularity of the highlights that want to burn though.
- consider would a filter like a polarizer help
- commit to shooting the entire roll of film in these conditions, and develop for less time than normal - google n-1 development for more guidance in this area
For a general guide to zones, I transcribed this from the inside cover of a notebook I wrote it into some 20 years ago, and just tore it from the cover of the now full notebook before I tossed it:
Zone values in words
Zone 0
A complete lack of density in the negative image, other than film base density plus fog.
Results in total black in the print
Zone I
Effective threshold.
First step above complete black in the print.
Slight tonality but no texture.
Zone II
First suggestion of texture
Represents the darkest part of the image where some detail is required
Zone III
Average dark materials
Low values showing adequate texture
Zone IV
Average dark foliage, dark stone, landscape shadow
Recommended shadow value for portraits in sunlight
Zone V
Clear north sky, grey stone, average weathered wood
Dark skin
Zone VI
Light stone, clear north sky (in ortho)
Shadows on snow in sunlit snowscapes
Average Caucasian skin in sunlight, artificial light and very diffuse sky or very soft artificial light
Zone VII
Light grey objects, average snow in acute sidelight
Very light skin
Zone VIII
Whites with textures and delicate values (not blank white)
Snow in full shade
Highlights on Caucasian skin
Zone IX
White without texture
Glaring white surfaces
Snow in flat sunlight