jstraw
Allowing Ads
In the June 1995 issue of Darkroom Photography, Joe Englander, describing procedures for split filter printing recommends yellow/magenta filtration for dichroic/condenser heads and blue/green filtration for cold light heads.
Do any here that use a cold light head and do split grade printing use the blue/green filters? Does it matter if one has already color corrected the lamp with a 40YCC filter?
I use blue and green the proper filter numbers are the Wratten Blue 47b and the Green 58 filters. Those filters will match the Aristo VCL 4500 two color heads. The newest one color head from Aristo is a V54 and you dont have to use the 40y filter for VC papers. The filters will work properly with the V54 light source.
lee\c
I split filter with 58/47B filters, under an Aristo T-12 with the V54 tube, and it works fine. For split filter printing, I don't think it would make any difference what color filters you use, so long as the hard filter blocks green light and the soft filter blocks blue light, or what color the light source is (V54, the W series, or tungsten). The time given for the hard and soft exposures might change, but the results would be the same.I.....Do any here that use a cold light head and do split grade printing use the blue/green filters? Does it matter if one has already color corrected the lamp with a 40YCC filter?
Lastly, I use plastic "theatre gels" made by Rosco above the negative. They are very inexpensive and easy to use. I use a deep blue #69 and medium green very similar to a #58 green filter. Total cost of a 2'x2' sheet was about $10.00 per color.
Alas, there's no way to switch between two filters with a Beseler 45MXT that wouldn't disturb the negative between exposures so I must filter below the lens.
Unless of course you have modified your 45MX with a 7"x9" Aristo cold light head which now sits atop the negative carrier which has a 1/2" space between light and carrier.
Sorry, I didn't remember what the 45 used to look like.
Steve, do you have a picture of that set up?
Sorry, I don't have a pix. Enlarger is still packed away while DR is under construciton.
I'll try to find a standard pix and describe the setup, it is not too difficult to do.
That would be great.
I am not able to drag a picture of a MX over here.
Very basically, remove the top section of bellows, where this support for the bellows bolts onto the sliding chassis I made a support which bolted onto the chassis in the same manner. An Aristo 7.5" x 9" Cold light sits over an opening which allows exactly a 5x7 negative to project through.
When I began using the blue / green method of split printing I raised the cold light 1/2" about the aluminum support to allow the plastic gels to rest on top of the glass negative carrirer there by controlling the color of the illumination without impacting the projected image quality.
Hope this helps
What I'd like is a slide-through drawer that moves from left to right with three sections. Soft filtration/no filtration/hard filtration.
I bought this extra Beseler 45 head to convert to a 5x7 and if I were to actually use a cold light head on it I would want to do split grade filtering. I have some heads, 4x5, 5x7, and 8x10. and the Aristo D2 on the 45m in my darkroom. They are all made by Aristo. I'm under the weather; can you tell me again what the reason for removing the top bellows, which is not used with cold light heads? Oh my I just answered my own question. A filter box goes there! I was thinking the upper bellows was under the negative holder. Duh! That sounds like about the only way to do it neatly. I don't have a glass holder, did I hear that someone had one in use with this filter system and is is necessary? This Beseler head part is for design/cutting/destruction/prototype purposes as I don't want to go to town on my working enlarger.
What is needed is a 1/2 inch box of similar perimeter dimensions of the top bellows with slots or rectangular openings for a filter holder that will hold the filters and is light tight and allows the filters to easily slide into the the light path. Am I getting it right?
Yep the problem is that the upper bellows is not easily removable. It would have to be cut out of its frame.
The upper and lower metal supports holding the upper bellows are completely removed and could be saved so that all could be restored to orginal if one wanted.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?