hotami said:Hey guys, i've been experimenting with split filter printing but i need some advice. I understand the basic principles, use 2 different filters at least 2.5 grades apart, use one for part of the time and the other for the rest of the time. My question is how do you determine how much time you need for each filter. I've read that you expose with high contrast filter 1/3 of the time, and low contrast filter 2/3 of the time. Is there a better explanation of how to determine the allotted times? My professor demoed it but i was kind of zoned out.
Thanks
andrew
FirePhoto said:I believe my prints look just as good with proper variable contrast filters as they did with split filtering, and the exposure process is simpler to determine and carry out. I haven't used split filter printing since, except while burning in very high or low value areas of a print, then I use 0 and 5 filters.
jeroldharter said:I have been split contrast printing for the last few months. Although I am new to large fromat B&W I have been interested in darkroom work and photography for over 20 years. I just spent my first day using the RH Designs StopClock Professional timer and I am a convert. There is a bit of a learning curve (I am still on it) but once you get going it keeps getting better. F-stop printing is so much more reasonable and consistent with the negative exposure side of the equation. Also, using it forces you to understand the process and materials better. I already am thinking in f-stops instead of seconds and making better prints. Split contrast burning also makes more sense to me. I highly recommend it to anyone with the money for it. (Lets hope for a recession in Great Britain.) I bought mine through their website and received it very promptly.
Not trying to be a salesman but it really is a great piece of gear. I saw on APUG that DigitalTruth is selling a similar but cheaper/fewer-featured f-stop timer also.
BWGirl said:I cannot agree with you more, Doc!I also use this timer and it has changed my printing life for the better.
I took a printing workshop with Les McLean last spring, and I really find that split filter (#0 & #5) printing gives tons of control. There was something Les said that no one has mentioned so far... 'a little bit of #0 goes a long way' or something to that effect. That's why I don't really think you can say "25% of the total time or 50% of the total time is one filter or another. I really think it's totally dependent on the negative. I really think you need to make the test strips for each negative to see.... if you try to put it 'in a box', it just limits your scope of the situation... IMVHO.
BWGirl said:..... and I really find that split filter (#0 & #5) printing gives tons of control. There was something Les said that no one has mentioned so far... 'a little bit of #0 goes a long way' or something to that effect.
In 15 years teaching the 0 and 5 method of split grade printing I have consistently seen people base the selection of the grade 0 exposure on the contrast they see in the test strip instead of selecting to exposure that simple gives the most delicate HIGHLIGHT TONE. Hence the slogan That Jeanette mentioned "a little soft filtration goes a long way". The contrast is generated by the addition of the grade 5 exposure. I have no doubt in my mind that with a suitable negative, this method of split grade printing will save both time and materials in the darkroom.
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