Speed Graphic front shutter release cable broken

[tih]

I just bought my first Speed Graphic, which looks like it's in quite good shape - the FP shutter and Kalart range finder will both need a bit of adjustment, but these are minor details.

However, the release cable for the front shutter is broken in two places. That is, the metal spiral outer shrouding is broken, so that it kinks sharply at these points, causing the wire inside to be hard to pull.

Any suggestions for how best to fix this?

Oh, and while looking at it, I notice that the bellows is just starting to come unglued where it overlaps itself on the underside. No light leak yet, but there obviously will be if this continues. Should I just apply a tiny bit of rubber cement, maybe?

Hints and tips much appreciated!

-tih

 

[Wade D]

I don't think the broken cable can be repaired. The forum at Graflex.org might be helpful in finding a replacement for it. Contact cement, if used sparingly, should work on the bellows and not be harmful. It stays pliable after it has set. I've used it, mixed with black India ink, to repair pinholes in the corners of my bellows.

 

[Ottrdaemmerung]

Assuming your Speed Graphic is similar to my Crown: why not just unscrew the cable release and replace it with a new one?

 

[tih]

Assuming your Speed Graphic is similar to my Crown: why not just unscrew the cable release and replace it with a new one?

Ah, I should probably have been more specific: it's a Pacemaker model, and I'm talking about the internal cable that runs from the integrated release button on the camera body, zig-zagging under the bellows, to the release mechanism on the front standard.

Sorry about the confusion!

-tih

 

[tih]

I don't think the broken cable can be repaired. The forum at Graflex.org might be helpful in finding a replacement for it. Contact cement, if used sparingly, should work on the bellows and not be harmful. It stays pliable after it has set. I've used it, mixed with black India ink, to repair pinholes in the corners of my bellows.

Thanks, Wade! I'll try a tiny bit of contact cement, then, and get on the graflex.org forum when they're back online - they seem to be down at the moment.

-tih

 

[Sirius Glass]

tih, graflex.org has been having server problems. Contact Bert on that forum, he is a retired Graflex and Graphic repairman.

Steve

 

[BobCrowley]

I usually remove that part altogether when I get a new Pacemaker SG. It just gets in the way of full movements when the forward tilt and swing modifications are done, and adds little to the utility of the camera in my view. It also adds another source of lash to the FP shutter release and makes it hard to put a cable release on a shuttered lens, like a 150 Xenotar in a Copal 3.

Unglued bellows edges are common. A little gap is not a concern because there is a big overlap, but if it bothers you, I suggest applying contact cement to both surfaces and pressing them together. Use just a bit.

 

[Fotoguy20d]

I can help you with a replacement cable if you decide its worth doing (as others have mentioned, the utility of that cable is somewhat questionable) - PM me if you want. On my own Speed, my primary lens is in a Compur shutter. The release paddle doesn't reach the lever on the shutter so I removed it. I have a tube of some Elmer's contact cement (acid free) in my fridge that I use when I need to repair a seam - just did it yesterday on an Eastman #1.

Dan

 

[Fotoguy20d]

This is the cable you need?

 

[tih]

That looks absolutely right!

PM sent.

-tih

 

[CSAND921NJ]

This is the cable you need?

found your info, great, I picked up a Pacemaker SG and everything looks but but the front cable release...it looks to be broken at the eyelet, what would you recommend, if to replace it where can I find a cable.
Thank you for your posts, it was very informative...look forward to your reply

 

[Dan Fromm]

I can understand why you want your new used camera to be perfect, but I see my Pacemakers' front cable releases as inventions of the devil and have removed them. Problem 1, the release paddles are shutter specific. Use a lens in a shutter the camera wasn't set up for and paddle won't engage the shutter's release lever. Problem 2, the wretched things get caught by the rails when I close the camera. I have to work to close the camera and don't appreciate the opportunity to damage the cable.

 

[shutterfinger]

Please post a picture of the broken end of your cable.

 

[Dwayne Martin]

I’ve always just removed that cable because it’s pretty useless for me anyway. The appeal of the speed is the focal plane shutter which allows you to use anything that will allow light to pass through it for a lens. When you use a lens mounted in a shutter you simply use a normal cable release. I just went to my darkroom to see if I still had one in my junk drawer but I must have thrown them out at some point…

 

[Sirius Glass]

I use the cable with the front or rear shutters.

 

[CSAND921NJ]

Please post a picture of the broken end of your cable.

I will try to get a decent pic of the cable, could use three hands to work everything ... I will upload tomorrow...don't judge the quality, it will be from my phone... but for a quickie, I marked where the break is

 

[shutterfinger]

That end of the cable is crimped on. The cable may have slipped out of the eyelet. The eyelet can be opened and the cable end reinserted then soldered in place for a more secure connection. if the cable broke off at the eyelet then open the eyelet, remove the old piece of the cable then insert the end of the cable that extends from the housing and secure. The travel of the cable lost will be insignificant in most cases.

 

[Sirius Glass]

shutterfinger is the one to listen to.

 

[CSAND921NJ]

yep, it is definitely broke, I'll try extending the cable or working with a new cable that will fit in...thanks for the help.

 

[Mamiya_Repair]

If your repair doesn't work out, PM me as I have replacement cable assemblies for the Graflex.

 

[shutterfinger]

This factory service manual https://graflex.org/manuals/45-Pacemaker-Speed-and-Crown-Graphic.pdf covers the removal and installation of the cable.
Put 2 or 3 drops of machine oil such as TriFlow or clock oil in the shield and allow it to run the full length of the cable. Do not use WD40, 3in1, or similar oils as they dry out to a sticky residue after a few months.