Pixel shift has come up a couple of times in this context here on Photrio, but I don't recall anyone reporting any significant practical benefit.
To add - if you’re after improved colour the light source will be really important. I use flash (as opposed to continuous light sources) and I know that some but not all cameras that do pixel shift can work with flash.
Whatever about the relative CRI merits of continuous vs flash, at least I know I’m not suffering with camera shake whilst shooting very highly magnified images when using flash. For critical sharpness flash is hard to beat.
There really shouldn't be much noise to speak of from any version of the camera at the low ISO you would use for film digitization.
Color reproduction improves by using pixel shift vs. not. How much, I haven't tested, but others will have results online you can look at.
The IV version of the camera has a half-pixel shift 16 shot mode for 230 MP files. I've never tried such a mode, my Pentax K-1 (first version) has 4 shot mode. I'd expect diminishing returns and huge files. If the resolution is truly there, then expect to struggle a lot with film flatness, parallelism, diffraction, and focus, in order to achieve it. It would also slow down the rate at which you can digitize a roll.
With film digitization, you'd need an extremely contrasty negative/positive for the shadow detail of your digitizing camera to come into play. I don't think this will matter much for 99% of circumstances.
Pixel shift was the deciding factor when comparing a 50MP camera without it to a 36MP with it in the same price bracket. Your III and IV cameras seem to be pretty close in price and one has quite a few more megapixels. If you're primarily a 35mm shooter, I'd personally go for something with pixel shift cheaper than both of them, unless you consistently use very high resolution film. If you shoot tons of medium format, maybe it will be useful for you.
I am currently using flash for color negs, but I'm expecting that the RGB Scanlight will be able to replace that once it gets here. I do find flash to be a big step up for color compared to a typical white LED panel, though.
I guess putting my above posts together, what I'm pointing to is your choice of camera, and to check whether either / both can do pixel shift with flash exposure. As I said above, quite a few recent mirrorless cameras can do pixel shift, but not with flash for each exposure. If your new light source works out, great! You wouldn't need a camera with that flash capacity. But flash is a very nice light source for this kind of work, and frankly hard to beat. I'm sure those higher end Sony's likely do have the capability anyway.
I do find some minor shadow noise on contrasty color negs quite often, and that is one of the reasons I am upgrading. Other than that, I do realize I am just squeezing out the last 1-5% of potential quality here. After trying different light sources and settling on the Sigma lens, the only other way to get even better would be to look into exotic process lenses, but that opens another can of worms.
I wonder if you'd improve the color neg results by using an 80A filter to bring the R/G/B channels closer together on the histogram. I plan on trying this soon.
I believe the RGB Scanlight may already be balanced to neutralize the mask, so I'm hoping it has a positive effect on noise.
So you are expecting it to add a bunch of cyan, in order to remove the effect of the calibrated to red mask?
So RGB scan lighting? Makes 3 separate exposures?
It's a combined RGB light, not separate.
So I wonder how this compares to a hot light? I use old school colorheads for making RA4 prints. I wonder how the spectra compare? Not sure I'm buying into this, but I'm easily confused.
I wonder how diffuse sunlight for a light source would work?
Also, how narrow is the spectra of RGB LEDs? I mean this isn't element emission spectra??
Heiland uses individual RGB LEDs for the fancy enlarger light sources, is this a similar thing?
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