Someone here remembers 1995

The first time I heard of wrapper offset, was a few years ago. I never heard of the issue ever, in the 90's.

95 was towards the end of my Saturn return which put me through the ringer. not looking forward to when Saturn returns again ...
on a good note I think it was around the time I bought a graflex sir from some dealer from ny who had a double page spread in shutterbug, I wish I could remember his name, he was a nice guy.
I think I documented a wire mill that year ( HABS ) that my grandfather had worked in 90 or 100 years before ... it had changed drastically .. from a 13 building complex to 3 buildings filled with debris ... during that assignment I switched from tanks and hangers to shuffling sheet film in a tray after having troubles with some hangers.

MattKing said:

The other nice thing about 828 is that the aspect ratio is very close to being the same as whole plate, 6x4.5, 110 and, dare I say it, 4/3 or micro 4/3.

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The 28:40 frame is close to 3:4, (1:1.3 exactly), but not as exact as 6x4.5 (56:42 is exactly 4:3). I think it was mostly a case of "how big a frame can we fit in a consumer camera the same size as a 135 and still have room for an auto advance stop?"

Donald Qualls said:

I think it was mostly a case of "how big a frame can we fit in a consumer camera the same size as a 135 and still have room for an auto advance stop?"

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And fit in a 2"x2" slide mount.
The 828 Kodachromes add real complexity to my intention to digitize my Dad's slides.

MattKing said:

And fit in a 2"x2" slide mount.

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If your Dad's slides are 2x2 mounted, it doesn't matter if they're 35mm, 828, half-frame, 3x4 or 4x4 on 127 (or 110/16mm or Minox). Most scanners will take 2x2 mounted slides and you can adjust the actual scan area to whatever the window opening is.

Donald Qualls said:

If your Dad's slides are 2x2 mounted, it doesn't matter if they're 35mm, 828, half-frame, 3x4 or 4x4 on 127 (or 110/16mm or Minox). Most scanners will take 2x2 mounted slides and you can adjust the actual scan area to whatever the window opening is.

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Yes, but the volume is such that I was considering going the digitizing with a camera, close up accessories and enlarger lenses route, and the change in image size mandates a change in camera positioning and close-up accessories.
Not a problem until the years when he shot both 35mm and 828.
There are so many of them that working chronologically is probably the only way to stay organized.
I'd rather not invest in a more flexible macro lens for my wife's Micro 4/3 camera.

You could digitize them all with the 828 setup and accept the (analogous to the reduced image area) slight reduction in image file size for the 35mm ones...

Remember 1995? Of course, it was just yesterday. Most of the stuff I own was made before then. I do not recall backing paper issues being reported prior to about 2010. I can imagine that storage conditions could cause problems where the paper prints through.

Backing paper “print” you might be able to “simply” wash away pre exposure.
You’ll remove the anti halation dye, but that is surprisingly unproblematic with slower, fine grained film. It leads to a bloomy look in the harder highlights though.
Which might be a good or a bad thing depending on preferences.

You need to remove the film from the backing paper in darkness, put it in a tank, wash it with distilled water, for about three to four minutes, end wash with denatured alcohol to aid fast drying, and then finally dry it fast and evenly with a hair dryer on cold.
Then retape it to the paper.
All without putting fingerprints on the emulsion.
And all again in complete darkness of course.

Surprisingly it’s doable and worth it.
I’m working on perfecting the technique and doing a step by step recipe.

It also leads to a slight speed up of any emulsion.
And for IR dyes it leads to an even better speed up, as long as a couple of days after washing. Up to a stop. Less contrast too.

I was forced to try it with Retro 80s, with the infamous mottling Foma backing paper.
It’s a pain the first couple of times, but with the right procedure and diy mechanical guide track it actually becomes easier.