Some advice of using 220 film over 120 film

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ted_smith

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As one of my other posts reveals, I'm shooting a wedding this May and I need some more film backs for my Hasselblad, so I have two or three pre-loaded with film, ready to shoot.

I'm having a wobble on whether to buy 2 or 3 A12 backs, or 2 or 3 A24 backs. As we know, the A12's hold 12 shots before needing to be swapped\re-loaded. The A24, 24 shots each. But, the film is twice the cost, and the development costs are twice as much. For example :

Pack of 5 120 Kodak Portra 400 =
60 shots
£30 to buy,
£25 to develop,
£25 to scan =
Total for 5 rolls : £80 (£1.33 per exposure)

Pack of 5 220 Kodak Portra 400 =
120 shots
£70 to buy,
£50 to develop,
£50 to scan =
Total for 5 rolls : £170 (£1.40 per exposure)

So, clearly, the A24 backs will result in a higher finished cost, despite the backs themsevles being about the same or a bit cheaper than the A12's. But the A24's will allow me greater capability and less hassle\stress during the shoot. Either way, I'll sell them again after the wedding as I don't need them day to day as I only shoot landscapes really.

I checked that my lab can process 220 film too, which it can, allbeit at twice the cost of 120 film.

My question is whether the 220 film is any different in terms of handling, loading etc. I read it doesn't have a back on it. Does this make it more delicate or more easy to accidentally fog? Or is it essentialy just the same as using 120 but with twice the shots per roll?
 

markbarendt

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220 film it's very easy to load, essentially just like 120 film. Used normally there is no extra risk. It is pretty handy to be able to shoot more frames.

The risk with 220 film is that it's no longer being made, once current stocks are exhausted only 120 film will remain.

At this point in history I suggest sticking with 120 film.
 

Jeff Bradford

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I prefer 220 if I know I'm going to go through the whole roll. Buy your Portra now and put it in the fridge so you have it come May.
 

skysh4rk

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As one of my other posts reveals, I'm shooting a wedding this May and I need some more film backs for my Hasselblad, so I have two or three pre-loaded with film, ready to shoot.

I'm having a wobble on whether to buy 2 or 3 A12 backs, or 2 or 3 A24 backs. As we know, the A12's hold 12 shots before needing to be swapped\re-loaded. The A24, 24 shots each. But, the film is twice the cost, and the development costs are twice as much. For example :

Pack of 5 120 Kodak Portra 400 =
60 shots
£30 to buy,
£25 to develop,
£25 to scan =
Total for 5 rolls : £80 (£1.33 per exposure)

Pack of 5 220 Kodak Portra 400 =
120 shots
£70 to buy,
£50 to develop,
£50 to scan =
Total for 5 rolls : £170 (£1.40 per exposure)

So, clearly, the A24 backs will result in a higher finished cost, despite the backs themsevles being about the same or a bit cheaper than the A12's. But the A24's will allow me greater capability and less hassle\stress during the shoot. Either way, I'll sell them again after the wedding as I don't need them day to day as I only shoot landscapes really.

I checked that my lab can process 220 film too, which it can, allbeit at twice the cost of 120 film.

My question is whether the 220 film is any different in terms of handling, loading etc. I read it doesn't have a back on it. Does this make it more delicate or more easy to accidentally fog? Or is it essentialy just the same as using 120 but with twice the shots per roll?

If 220 were actually just twice the cost of 120, I might not have recently abandoned 220 format. Over the last few years, however, 220 film has usually been about 3x the price of 120.

You seem to be overpaying for your Portra 400 in 120 format though, which has brought them closer in price than they should be. I usually buy Portra 400 in 120 for GBP 20 to 22 pounds per box.

220 is great and easy to use, but the costs are high and all 220 film stocks in Europe have been discontinued as far as I can tell, so I have given up on the format as of last month.
 
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Slixtiesix

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If 220 were actually just twice the cost of 120, I might not have recently abandoned 220 format. Over the last few years, however, 220 film has usually been about 3x the price of 120.

Yes, that keeps me from using it as well. If Ted can get film and development for only twice the cost of 120, I would go with 220 film for the wedding. Plus the A24 are usually very cheap since nobody buys them nowadays.
 

Luis-F-S

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As one of my other posts reveals, I'm shooting a wedding this May and I need some more film backs for my Hasselblad, so I have two or three pre-loaded with film, ready to shoot.

I'm having a wobble on whether to buy 2 or 3 A12 backs, or 2 or 3 A24 backs. As we know, the A12's hold 12 shots before needing to be swapped\re-loaded. The A24, 24 shots each. But, the film is twice the cost, and the development costs are twice as much. For example :

Pack of 5 120 Kodak Portra 400 =
60 shots
£30 to buy,
£25 to develop,
£25 to scan =
Total for 5 rolls : £80 (£1.33 per exposure)

Pack of 5 220 Kodak Portra 400 =
120 shots
£70 to buy,
£50 to develop,
£50 to scan =
Total for 5 rolls : £170 (£1.40 per exposure)

So, clearly, the A24 backs will result in a higher finished cost, despite the backs themsevles being about the same or a bit cheaper than the A12's. But the A24's will allow me greater capability and less hassle\stress during the shoot. Either way, I'll sell them again after the wedding as I don't need them day to day as I only shoot landscapes really.

I checked that my lab can process 220 film too, which it can, allbeit at twice the cost of 120 film.

My question is whether the 220 film is any different in terms of handling, loading etc. I read it doesn't have a back on it. Does this make it more delicate or more easy to accidentally fog? Or is it essentialy just the same as using 120 but with twice the shots per roll?
It's twice the cost because it's twice the film!
 

BrianShaw

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If I were Ted is be wondering how many A-12 backs to get, not much else.
 

BrianShaw

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Well, now that i think about it is be wondering one more thing: who is going to help load bank when the event gets really busy.
 

markbarendt

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Well, now that i think about it is be wondering one more thing: who is going to help load bank when the event gets really busy.

Weddings are typically hurry-up-and-wait events. Yes one must be fully ready with enough loaded for each flurry of work but then there is normally a significant break before the next flurry.

As long as one reloads immediately and does not get distracted it isn't tough.

It also needs to be remembered that in the days of old many weddings were shot in total on two rolls of 120 total. Having a good idea of each shot you have to have before you start and those where you may want a few more will allow reasonable "budgeting" of the film loaded.
 

MattKing

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The A24 backs are likely to be harder to re-sell.
 

benjiboy

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There are very few 220 films still made stick to 120 backs Ted, this wedding your doing for free is going to cost you a fortune.
 

ic-racer

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In 1985 I went to Europe with my Yashica Mat 124G and a bunch of PlusX 220. I had not had a chance to try the film, but had used the 120 version frequently. Turns out there is a 'distractor' start mark before the real start mark on the leader. I missed the first 3 shots on all the rolls.
 
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As one of my other posts reveals, I'm shooting a wedding this May and I need some more film backs for my Hasselblad, so I have two or three pre-loaded with film, ready to shoot.

I'm having a wobble on whether to buy 2 or 3 A12 backs, or 2 or 3 A24 backs. As we know, the A12's hold 12 shots before needing to be swapped\re-loaded. The A24, 24 shots each. But, the film is twice the cost, and the development costs are twice as much. For example :

Pack of 5 120 Kodak Portra 400 =
60 shots
£30 to buy,
£25 to develop,
£25 to scan =
Total for 5 rolls : £80 (£1.33 per exposure)

Pack of 5 220 Kodak Portra 400 =
120 shots
£70 to buy,
£50 to develop,
£50 to scan =
Total for 5 rolls : £170 (£1.40 per exposure)

So, clearly, the A24 backs will result in a higher finished cost, despite the backs themsevles being about the same or a bit cheaper than the A12's. But the A24's will allow me greater capability and less hassle\stress during the shoot. Either way, I'll sell them again after the wedding as I don't need them day to day as I only shoot landscapes really.
[...]
I checked that my lab can process 220 film too, which it can, allbeit at twice the cost of 120 film.

If you are a very competent and organised photographer with an image plan in place for the wedding, there is no need to complicate the big day with what I view as astronomically expensive film and processing costs. I've known weddings to be completed from go to whoa on three rolls of 120, with every image vetted and included in the album, all costs covered and a tidy profit made. At the other (digital) extreme, a bigwig photographer in my town got so carried away he blitzed anything and everything with a not-so-modest 2 digi cameras shooting 3,440 images (to my knowledge only 33 were bought by the happy couple, much to the photographer's disgust! :laugh:). It's true that you will get more shots on 220 before you need to whip out a roll (useful for bracketing in the landscape context), but are you taking too much? As I said if you have an image plan you can accommodate sections of the wedding on one roll of 120, and whip another for the next section and so forth. Seems labs still like to get in on the lark in charging a higher cost for 220. Where I am, 220 rolls are processed at the same cost as 120 rolls (E6/C41 and this is common in Australia). I expect there will not be film available in the 220 format for too much longer, certainly I wouldn't buy equipment that relies on that format looking into the future.
 

markbarendt

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At the other (digital) extreme, a bigwig photographer in my town got so carried away he blitzed anything and everything with a not-so-modest 2 digi cameras shooting 3,440 images (to my knowledge only 33 were bought by the happy couple, much to the photographer's disgust! :laugh:).

Yep, 100:1, scary.
 

Sirius Glass

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Stick to 120 and avoid the drama of which back am I using now or grabbing the wrong roll of film when reloading.
 

MattKing

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Whatever you do, don't use 120 in a 220 back at a wedding.

At weddings, you need to be able to trust your frame counter!
 
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