Solarol as means to reverse B+W film

[RJMLuke]

Can it be done? I am wondering if Solarol alone or in tandem with another developer will render reversed images on 35mm fillm. I am working with Plus-X and Fomapan 100. Thanks

 

[Ian Grant]

Please tell us what Solarol is ? You can cut out the re-exposure & development stage in a number of ways.

Ian

 

[bdial]

I've never used it, but it's a developer that is supposed to help produce the Sabatier Effect. I don't think it would be very useful for reversal.

 

[Rich Ullsmith]

Pretty good article on Unblinkingeye about this and other developers, but only as they relate to Sabbatier effect with papers.

 

[Ian Grant]

If you want to try it with B&W reversal images a better option would be process as normal, get your slide then bleach it in a ferricyanide/bromide bleach, wash well and try it. The results will be the same but you won't have ruined a whole film trying it.

Ian

 

[jim appleyard]

Ian, Solarol is available from Porter's Camera Stores here in the US; perhaps from other places as well, but I know Porter's has it. Maybe a google on solarol or Porters will give you more info.

Never tried the stuff and I certainly never thought about it for film. Could this be the magic bullet?

 

[Ian Grant]

Jim is Solarol one of the strange developers from Rockland Colloids. I seem to remember afew oddments from them, one was Halochrome which gave a silver finish to a print/emulsion. I was their first UK customer back in 1976 when I tried Liquid Light emulsion.

Ian

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

Solarol is available from B&H as well. I think it's from the same company that makes Acufine, Diafine, and LPD these days. It has the same retro packaging (though they're breaking down and starting to sell Acufine in plastic jars instead of metal cans).

 

[jim appleyard]

Thanks, Ian. I'm glad to know it's available "across the pond"!

 

[Jim Jones]

Solarol works very well on high contrast like Tech Pan or litho. The result is as high key print instead of the traditional dark solarized print. As I recall I used an EI of about 25 for Tech Pan, developed it for about a minute with no agitation for the last 10 seconds, flashed it, and developed another 30 or 40 seconds. Litho is much slower, but permits processing by inspection. I had pinhole trouble with it.