Softening Graflex SLR focusing hoods?

hamradio · Dec 9, 2014

I now own a 5x7 Series B. Knowing that the camera probably hadn't been opened up for half a century and that the hood would be very stiff/brittle, I gently opened the top cover, unhooked it, and unclipped it in one folded up piece. Now I've got a really, really nice looking but stiff and folded up hood. Any suggestions on how to bring it back to life? So far I'm thinking about using Lemon Pledge or Lexol (is this thing actually leather?).

MDR · Dec 9, 2014

There's a visual guide on how to repair the Hood of an Auto Graflex RB 4x5 on Flickr :https://www.flickr.com/photos/heritagefutures/sets/72157625049184949/
It's also a Topic on the Graflex Forum : http://www.graflex.org/helpboard/viewtopic.php?t=6425&sid=1ea4a540fbe14d792de7b85be7289d2c

Good luck with the repairs

E. von Hoegh · Dec 9, 2014

hamradio said:
I now own a 5x7 Series B. Knowing that the camera probably hadn't been opened up for half a century and that the hood would be very stiff/brittle, I gently opened the top cover, unhooked it, and unclipped it in one folded up piece. Now I've got a really, really nice looking but stiff and folded up hood. Any suggestions on how to bring it back to life? So far I'm thinking about using Lemon Pledge or Lexol (is this thing actually leather?).

It was leather on my 2x3 RB. Neatsfoot oil, or Lexol. Please note that there is "Neatsfoot oil compound" and there is "pure Neatsfoot oil". Use the latter, Fiebing's still makes it. Forget Pledge.

shutterfinger · Dec 9, 2014

In order of performance:
Pure Neatsfoot Oil http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/21997-00.aspx
Pledge in the yellow can
Lexol can/will leave the leather hood with a sticky residue.

The lemon oil and beeswax in the pledge will soften leather some but not as effectively as Neatsfoot oil. Pledge softens the shutter curtain as well IF it has not started to crack. Spray the pledge on and let sit for 30 minutes then rub in and wipe off the excess.

Neatsfoot oil: apply in light coats allowing 12 to 24 hours between coats. Apply with a cotton ball or similar soft applicator. Support the hood from the inside while applying. Buff with a soft lint free cloth after the final coat has dried.

I repair cracked, falling apart hoods with Dap Weldwood Nonflammable contact cement (water/neoprene based) and shutter cloth (player piano bellows cloth, .008 thick) cut into strips 1 1/2 to 2 inch wide centered on the split seam. I do the top to bottom seams first then the cross seams. Do not fold until thoroughly dry.

binglebugbob · Dec 10, 2014

Mink oil is also good. It can be had as a liquid or paste. The paste is..."ok", but the liquid doesn't leave a residue. I would avoid anything that isn't 100% natural oil. Other synthetics or compounds can cause the leather to crack. (I used lexol on a pair of leather work boots regularly and they still cracked.) As previously mentioned, some neatsfoot oil contains stuff other than pure neatsfoot oil.

I use mink oil on every leather camera strap and leather (remember that stuff?) case I get, especially if the case has a leather "hinge." If a leather camera case is dry and you bend the leather hinge to open and close it, in a short time the leather fibers break and the case is ruined. Which is unfortunate, because it can be prevented easily.
bob.

shutterfinger · Dec 10, 2014

Mink oil seals the pores in leather making it moisture proof from the outside trapping moisture inside if any exists.

Sirius Glass · Dec 10, 2014

shutterfinger said:
In order of performance:
Pure Neatsfoot Oil http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/21997-00.aspx
Pledge in the yellow can
Lexol can/will leave the leather hood with a sticky residue.

The lemon oil and beeswax in the pledge will soften leather some but not as effectively as Neatsfoot oil. Pledge softens the shutter curtain as well IF it has not started to crack. Spray the pledge on and let sit for 30 minutes then rub in and wipe off the excess.

Neatsfoot oil: apply in light coats allowing 12 to 24 hours between coats. Apply with a cotton ball or similar soft applicator. Support the hood from the inside while applying. Buff with a soft lint free cloth after the final coat has dried.

I repair cracked, falling apart hoods with Dap Weldwood Nonflammable contact cement (water/neoprene based) and shutter cloth (player piano bellows cloth, .008 thick) cut into strips 1 1/2 to 2 inch wide centered on the split seam. I do the top to bottom seams first then the cross seams. Do not fold until thoroughly dry.

+1

binglebugbob · Dec 11, 2014

My experience has been that over time the mink oil evaporates. Haven't had any trouble with moisture in my camera cases, but I've only been using it for 30 years, so I could be mistaken.

Softening Graflex SLR focusing hoods?

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