... (This is in the Colour sub forum)...
Thiocyanate works as developer accelerator, without it you'd have to vastly extend FD times.Thanks for the replies. I was planning to use the substitute for the FD in colour reversal processing. What will be the effect if thiocyanate was skipped on the FD? Thiocyanate isn't readily available here.
Thanks for the replies. I was planning to use the substitute for the FD in colour reversal processing. What will be the effect if thiocyanate was skipped on the FD? Thiocyanate isn't readily available here.
Thiocyanate works as developer accelerator, without it you'd have to vastly extend FD times.
Just a quick question: you aren't by any chance trying to process E-6 with some self mixed FD, then reexpose and run through C-41 or RA-4 process, are you?
Reexpose or fogging bath (I still have some fogging baths left over from E6 kits), and develop in modified RA-4 developer. I am planning to use D19 as the first developer, and plan to add the solvent to it.
Thanks for the replies. I was planning to use the substitute for the FD in colour reversal processing. What will be the effect if thiocyanate was skipped on the FD? Thiocyanate isn't readily available here.
If there is no strong solvent in the FD, the Dmin will probably be murky and the contrast might be off (high). There will probably be crossover. This was the case when I worked last with color reversal processes.
PE
PE - to get sure not have a mistake cause by missunderstanding the attention of the op let me short ask?
" is sodium thiocyanate in FD existenciell important due to chemical concern
(reaction of couplers in layers) with
following CD ?"
I got it im mind that it is responcible to
contrast in bw developer (FD)......????
with regards
Thiocyanate is used as a solvent in the E6 FD as well as most other reversal FDs to aid in cleaning out the Dmin in the reversed image. It acts as a solvent to increase negative Dmax and lower negative fog thus having the reverse effect after reversal.
PE
Thiocyanate works as developer accelerator, without it you'd have to vastly extend FD times.
Just a quick question: you aren't by any chance trying to process E-6 with some self mixed FD, then reexpose and run through C-41 or RA-4 process, are you?
I was quite sure that you were going into that direction, I guess it's easier to get D-19 and RA-4 CD than E6 kits. Here is what you could do in order to make reasonable progress (all those who consider deviations from standard E6 process apostasy punishable by death: this post is not for you, just ignore it, I wrote it for folks without access to correct processing chems and non-standard raw chems):Reexpose or fogging bath (I still have some fogging baths left over from E6 kits), and develop in modified RA-4 developer. I am planning to use D19 as the first developer, and plan to add the solvent to it.
I was quite sure that you were going into that direction, I guess it's easier to get D-19 and RA-4 CD than E6 kits. Here is what you could do in order to make reasonable progress (all those who consider deviations from standard E6 process apostasy punishable by death: this post is not for you, just ignore it, I wrote it for folks without access to correct processing chems and non-standard raw chems):
These instructions should bring you to a point where you can at least get some viewable color slides with B&W developer, RA-4 chems, Potassium Thiocyanate and Trisodium Phosphate. Once you have these, and if the results look off, there are ways to fine tune the process. Once you post your scans we can help you dial in the process.
- E6 BLIX is about double strength of RA-4 CD, otherwise not that much different. BLIX for at least 8 minutes. If you have access to RA-4 chems, maybe the same source can give you C-41 bleach & fixer. The latter would be much more effective than double strength RA-4 BLIX, but both should work. If you want to know whether your BLIX concoction works, develop a fully exposed E6 test clip in whatever paper developer you can find until it is completely developed, which should be the case after 5-10 minutes. Then throw it in your BLIX and wait for it to completely clear. The test clip was likely opaque even before you developed it, this opaqueness comes from the anti halation layer which is realized as colloidal silver layer, which goes away during BLIXing. If your BLIX concoction doesn't clear your developed film within 10 minutes, you need to find out what went wrong.
- about CD: E6 CD is an even more violent thug than E6 FD: compared to RA-4 CD it contains about twice the amount of CD-3, and it typically operates around pH 12 vs 10.25. This means you have to mix RA-4 CD at twice the strength, then add Trisodium Phosphate until pH is good. How do you know how much you need without a pH meter? Look at the color of your E-6 CD: if it's too alkaline, it oxidizes quickly in air, which you can observe by its strong discoloration. Add only as much Trisodium Phosphate as it takes to slightly change the color appearance of your double strength RA-4 CD. A quick test whether your E6 CD works is running a small, fully exposed test clip through the process only with the steps CD, wash, BLIX (or bleach&wash&fix), wash. Such a test clip must be completely dense, much denser than normal black areas of slide film, more like: completely opaque to light.
- about FD: E6 FD is a violent thug, much more active than all B&W developers I am aware of. The real formula (like shown (there was a url link here which no longer exists) and (there was a url link here which no longer exists)) is sort of hard to compare, since no mainstream B&W developer uses HQMS as secondary developer. The Watkins Factor E6 FD uses Phenidone (and loads of it!! ) and HQ, so it's easier to compare to D-19, if we assume that Phenidone replaces Metol at roughly 1:10 ratio. Can you find a source of Metol in your place, such as D-23 developer? Yes, you will need some solvent or your E6 FD times will go through the roof. Maybe you can make Sodium Thiosulfate work for you. If you can find a source of Potassium Thiocyanate: don't worry if it's pricey, you only need about 1 g/l, a tiny stash will likely last you a long time. If you can't find KSCN, maybe you could use Rodinal stand development as E6 FD step as shown in (there was a url link here which no longer exists).
- Because of this colloidal silver based anti halation layer there is no way to check E6 FD without going through the whole process including BLIX or bleach&fix, this is why I mention FD towards the end of this list. You must have a working CD and BLIX before you can test whether FD works properly.
- RA-4 chems don't contain Formalin, but E-6 emulsions need it. Mix a STAB with Photo Engineer's formula from (there was a url link here which no longer exists) and be done with it.
trendland, if you want nice, sharp slides with fine grain and accurate colors, you have to mix the correct soup, whatever it takes. If you could get great slides from D-19, D-82 with some house hold chems, then Kodak would have loved to sell just that.
As far as I have understood this, ZorkiKat has no access to E6 kits or fancy raw chems, so I am trying to help him get at least some results with a fair amount of fine tuning and testing. The advice I gave above describes the McGyver E6 process, not anything a decent lab should do.
@ZorkiKat : AFAIK Suvatlar ships photochemistry internationally, maybe try contact him whether Philippines are an option for him. If you only need KSCN and/or Na3PO4, shipping costs should be reasonable and no drug/terrorism charges will be pressed against you.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?