I haven't come across a sulfate sepia toner formula. Sulfide, yes. Yet another 1 letter difference with sulfite and an entirely different compound!Sodium sulphAte is a key ingredient in sepia toners
I haven't come across a sulfate sepia toner formula. Sulfide, yes. Yet another 1 letter difference with sulfite and an entirely different compound!
Sodium Sulphate is used only in Tropical developers as it helps prevent the emulsion swelling at higher temperatures,
I usually buy sodium sulphIte in 5kg lots, been mixing my own D76 (and D72) for many years. I just picked up the wrong tin off the shelf and wondered if I could substitute it, it seems I can't so will return it and get Sulph"I"te. No biggie. I mix my own Thio toner, I'm on my second set of scales, lost my great Versalab scales "in the divorce" but have a accurate to .01 gram set of scales from an Australian manufacturer, so I'm all good on the scales front!As you are learning, in photo chemistry, two vowels can make a huge difference...
Sodium sulphAte is a key ingredient in sepia toners. If you intend to ever to toning (disclaimer: not recommended, I've done it in the past, never again!), you'll need a few other chemicals.
Sodium suphIte is an important component for developers. If you intend to home brew your own, you'll be using a lot of it (my preferred mix for Adox Borax fine grain developer takes 80 grams/liter and my kitchen-mix Kodak Dektol a similar amount), and you should buy up a big amount as it's usually cheaper bulk-bought. Keeps indefinitely.
You do have accurate scales, I hope. This is essential for mixing your own.
Sepia toning was simple when Kodak still made their sepia toner but most people use Thio now. Another option is a fairly strong Selenium toner on a warm paper, sorta similar results to the old sepia. I never liked hard core sepia, I used to mix a fairly dilute bleach and pulled the print quite early, of course the old papers that toned so beautifully are now gone but the new warmtone papers (Ilford, Bergger)are pretty good.You are most likely right on this. My reference books and notebooks are packed away after our interstate move last year, so I couldn't check and refresh my weary brain - I've not done any sepia toning for ten years or more, nor do I intend to do any again in this lifetime. All that two bath preparation, bleaching and redeveloping was much too fiddly and messy for me and my results were inconsistent. Sepia toning is very much an art all of its own, and I'm not the right artist for it...
My apologies to all if I've misled anyone on this.
@Ian Grant: can it also be used to "slow down" a developer without reducing its pH or concentration?
I do a fair amount of toning, but usually on RC papers - most frequently Ilford Multigrade or Oriental Seagull Multigrade - so my experiences may differ from others.Sepia toning was simple when Kodak still made their sepia toner but most people use Thio now. Another option is a fairly strong Selenium toner on a warm paper, sorta similar results to the old sepia. I never liked hard core sepia, I used to mix a fairly dilute bleach and pulled the print quite early, of course the old papers that toned so beautifully are now gone but the new warmtone papers (Ilford, Bergger)are pretty good.
Certainly. I did some small prints on adix mcc112 the other day in a cold tone developer, toned in selenium, then with a direct sepia toner (outdoors!) For some reason I can't get that very nice purple brown split tone with thiourea toner.Split Sepia and Selenium can be fun
Possibly because it will reduce swelling in the emulsion,
Kodak Rapid pAmininophenol Cine developer (Crabtree 1918)
...
By adding 10% (100g) of Sodium Sulphate the development time may be increased to 3 minutes.
Thanks Ian. I found a post of yours which suggests increased concentration of Sodium Sulphate does increase development time for another cine developer:
https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/kodak-d-96a.88209/
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