So is HC-110 really the best developer for HP5 (120)?

brian steinberger · Aug 6, 2010

I've heard this combination mentioned almost as much as Tri-x and D-76 or APX and Rodinal. I haven't yet had good luck with HP5 in 120, but I've had better luck with it than it's rival, tri-x. I'm still looking for a replacement for my previous favorite Neopan 400 that Fuji quickly removed from production.

So far with HP5 I've tried Xtol 1:1, Rodinal, ID-11 1:1, and HC-110. I gave up on all the above combos until I went back and reviewed my negatives from development in HC-110 (with an EI around 640). They seem to glow. I don't know how I missed this at the time (this tends to happen when jumping around from material to material). The problem with HP5 is the shoulder, it keeps the film from having bright glowing highlights, they always appear dull and gray. HC-110 seems to straighten the curve of HP5 out more and give it the kick in the a$$ it needs.

I was just looking for comments from others about this combination. Is all the hype true? Is HC-110 the developer that can tame HP5?

MikeSeb · Aug 6, 2010

One wonders how many times this advice has to be tendered before it sinks in:

1. All the developers you mentioned are more alike than not, and they all "work" with any film once the combination's quirks are learned and mastered;

2. Pick one developer and film and use it exclusively until you know exactly how it will work in any situation.

You said it yourself: "jumping around" in search of a nonexistent "perfect" developer is 90% of the trouble.

Christopher Walrath · Aug 6, 2010

I have used HC110 with Neopan (135 and 120), TMX (135 and 120), TMY-2 (120), HP5 (4x5), FP4+ (4x5), Arista.edu (135 (100-400), 120(400) and 4x5).

I can't say that it is the best for any of these films, but I pretty much use HC110 for any film I shoot. And it does pretty good. It IS a very versatile developer IMHO. That's my $0.02.

2F/2F · Aug 6, 2010

You need to define what you mean by "best" for us to give you a meaningful answer.

HC-110 is an excellent general-purpose developer, as are most common developers.

jmcd · Aug 6, 2010

HC-110 works great with HP5+, and contrast is very good if you develop sufficiently.

I get full speed with this combination.

For a normal lighting range try ei 400, HC-110 dilution B 7-3/4 @68 (inversion agitation for first 30 seconds, then two inversions per minute). This prints with good contrast on grade 2 Ilford MG.

jmcd · Aug 6, 2010

Rodinal is also excellent with this film, and I think it will straighten out the curve for you, also. For the same normal lighting, I also use speed 400, and develop in Rodinal 1:25 for 9-1/2 minutes. For this I agitate differently to get the look I want—continuous for the first 30 seconds, then two inversions every 30 seconds.

jmcd · Aug 6, 2010

"You need to define what you mean by "best" for us to give you a meaningful answer."

I think the OP is looking for a developer that will work with HP5+ to achieve glowing highlights, I am guessing like these: (there was a url link here which no longer exists)

2F/2F · Aug 6, 2010

Glowing highlights are going to be overwhelmingly caused by the light you shoot, and then by exposure, not by the developer.

It takes a fairly hefty dose of overexposure to make HP5 shoulder off. It has pretty biting high tones pretty far up the scale IME. Not like T-Max, but definitely not dull and grey (if given enough exposure and development).

"Glowing" highlights may actually be better achieved by utilizing the upper ranges of the straight line and the shoulder (i.e. overexposing). However, as I mentioned, it mostly has to do with what you shoot.

brian steinberger · Aug 6, 2010

jmcd said:
"You need to define what you mean by "best" for us to give you a meaningful answer."

I think the OP is looking for a developer that will work with HP5+ to achieve glowing highlights, I am guessing like these: (there was a url link here which no longer exists)

John is correct. I've just been so struck by the great results I've been getting with FP4 in ID-11 1:1 that I wish I could work out the same results for a 400 speed film. But all my results so far have been bland with HP5. I've over-exposed, I've under-exposed. I've developed for lots of extra time in ID-11 to no avail. The best results I've gotten so far were under-exposing a bit and developing in HC-110. I'm trying to straighten the curve out a bit. I was just looking to see if anyone else had experiences of HC-110 being a perfect fit for HP5 in terms of bumping the highlights up a bit, giving the film a little more "pop" than normal.

tim elder · Aug 6, 2010

brian steinberger said:
The best results I've gotten so far were under-exposing a bit and developing in HC-110.

I understand that you are looking for others to assert their preference for developing HP5+ in HC-110 and I wish I could tell you that I am one of those people, but I am not. I use HC-110 because it fits my needs as an infrequent shooter of black and white film, not because I shoot HP5+. I prefer Tri-X, for what it's worth (not much). What I can say is that what's important is that you seem to have found this combination to your liking - and really, that's all that matters. I suggest that you stick with it.

Tim

JBrunner · Aug 6, 2010

IMO one of the things about HC 110 is that it seems to behave a bit differently at different dilutions. I personally favor a 1:49 ratio, and have had good results (which for me means the feel of an expanded neg). I rate HP5+ at 320 and process n+1 or 2 depending on the scene, and it seems to actually work.

brian steinberger · Aug 7, 2010

Seems I'll be doing some more experimentation. In the meantime I'm loving the FP4 and ID-11 combo.

Dan Daniel · Aug 7, 2010

For what it's worth, I've had nice results from HP5+ with HC-110, diluted 1:100, 10 minutes at 20C. Agitate first minute, then 8 inversions every 3 minutes. Given all the variables, I throw that out as just a starting point.

tlitody · Aug 7, 2010

hc110 tends to give an upswept curve when you use strong dilutions. B or stronger. But when you dilute it, it becomes a compnsating developer and puts a shoulder in the film.
You have to get the right strength to get the result you want, The stronger the dilution the faster useable film speed. The more dilute the slower useable film speed you get.
You have to test to get to where you want to be.

Tom Stanworth · Aug 9, 2010

FWIW, I find HP5+ gives somewhat bland images a lot of the time no matter what you do with it. I love the results when pulled under harsh light though, but for general use I avoid it. Why? I dunno, but I just dont tend to get results I like. I preferred Neopan 400 overall but with its demise in 120, TriX seems to work for me best of all.

TareqPhoto · Aug 9, 2010

Post your result from HP5+ and i would like to see what is wrong with it, i can't understand yet and i think i will never understand what do you mean by "glowing highlights", maybe you will help me as i did shoot not much HP5+ before but the results i liked so far, but if there is something about highlights or even shadows then you will help me to understand it more by photos samples.

eclarke · Aug 9, 2010

The big problem with all htese discussions is that the water you use to mix developer has a huge effect on the final negative. As someone said before, pick one and learn how to expose fore the developer...EC

tlitody · Aug 9, 2010

http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/index.html

hp5 and 4x5 film is really good IMO. Not so good with hp5 35mm film as I prefer less grain. If you like more separation in highlights than in shadows (i.e. upswept curve) then use delta 100 or 400 or T-max 400 and not forgetting acros.

So is HC-110 really the best developer for HP5 (120)?

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