Small time needs a sturdy flash

jamesgignac · Nov 5, 2008

So, I'm basically just starting out in the photography world. Eight years ago (when I was in grade 12 - I'm 25 now) I spent about a year and a half doing strictly b&w 35mm and spent a LOT of time in the darkroom at my highschool and a local 'arts-specific' trade school. I've set myself up with a very nice enlarger for colour printing and I just purchased a Bronica SQ-A:
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=320313455578

My question is: I'm looking for a good, sturdy flash that I can take out with me to shoot concerts, launch parties, and other events. I don't plan to do any studio work for the time being so portability (and yet ruggedness) is more of a concern than it being feature-packed. I'd be comfortable spending up to $200CAD on it...and I'm not sure what sort of options that leaves for me. I'd certainly spend more if I hadn't just shelled out over $1000 for the camera/enlarger combined. Just another poor artist weighing his debts against his assets.

Any ideas would be very much welcomed as I really know nothing about flashes in general. Thanks so much!

Nick Zentena · Nov 5, 2008

I forget if that body has TTL or not. Either way get a used Metz 45 either a -3 or a -4. CT or CL. Just the flash without the TTL module should be easy for your budget. If that body handles TTL or you get a AI body then adding a TTL module to the flash will give you all the features you might want. KEH some times has good prices on used modules.

jamesgignac · Nov 5, 2008

Thanks for the quick reply Nick, I'd be interested to know what the differences are between the CT and CL or the 3 / 4. I suppose I'll search around the forum to figure that out, but if anyone could quickly summarize that for me I'd greatly appreciate it (again, very new, very curious).

Added note:
I checked out ebay and found some CTs and a CL all -1 that were listed in Canada. Not sure if that's going to be of use to me or if I should just bite the bullet and buy a -3 or -4 from the US (or elsewhere) as you suggested and pay the potential tariff, etc. Again, I need to figure out what the difference is in these model numbers.

Nick Zentena · Nov 5, 2008

CT has a different ready light. I forget if the CL switched to an LED or something else. But the only difference between the newer CL and the CT is the ready light.

The 3 is just the main light. The four adds a small "wink" light that helps fill ..

jamesgignac · Nov 5, 2008

Thanks again Nick.

Also I tracked down your response to the same question that's now in the 'Archives': (there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Very helpful stuff, much appreciated.

Nick Zentena · Nov 5, 2008

I didn't see the bit about the 1s. I wouldn't buy a CT-1. The oldest ones are high voltage. Not much point buying a 1 period unless you find a great deal. The TTL models are often only a little more money. With the right TTL module you can use them with any camera system you've got. Or just use a sync cable.

From the US there should be no tariff. Just the tax. But you'll pay tax buying from a Canadian shop to so that's a wash.

MattKing · Nov 5, 2008

Nick Zentena said:
From the US there should be no tariff. Just the tax. But you'll pay tax buying from a Canadian shop to so that's a wash.

Technically, the tariff will depend on the country of origin, so even if you buy it from the US, if it was manufactured in Germany, it will be the tariff for German goods that applies.

That being said, it is very rare that any duty is charged on individual imports of moderately priced used goods. What does get charged is PST and GST (usually).

Be careful to check what the shipping method is. The lower cost UPS shipping results in a big brokerage charge for cross-border shipments.

As to the choice of flashes, I'm a big fan of the larger Metz units. Personally, I prefer the 60 series flashes, because I like having the high capacity batteries moved out of the flash and into the shoulder pack, but many prefer otherwise.

Matt

jamesgignac · Nov 5, 2008

I've dealt quite a bit with shipping and tariff codes (being once a customs coordinator), and yes I agree UPS and FedEx can be killers for brokerage fees (I once paid over $100 US in brokerage for a turntable shipped UPS from the states - I don't deal with UPS anymore...and yet Keh seems to deal with them exclusively...we may never see eye-to-eye.)

thanks again for the info on the flashes. I'm beginning to build a mental structure of everything involved there and I'm sure I'll be confident enough to buy once I do a little bit more reading.

TheFlyingCamera · Nov 5, 2008

Here's another basic option, very inexpensive, plentiful, and easy to use:

Vivitar 283 or 285. The big difference between them is the 285 has a zoom head. They both have interchangeable exposure modules - the auto-thyristor comes with it by default, and lets you adjust power output in four levels, from full to 1/8th. It is color-coded based on the distance to subject, with appropriate f-stops assigned to the color bands. There is also a variator module you can use in place of the auto-thyristor that gives you power levels without the color code, from full to 1/16th (maybe 1/32nd, I forget). A vivitar 283 should run you under $60 USD for a good condition used one. A new 285HV will cost $89.95 USD at B&H.

These both pump out a LOT of power in a small package, so they make great flashes for portable cameras.

jamesgignac · Nov 5, 2008

Thanks for the response 'Fly, Something like that might be more up my alley as I'd like to be able to mount a flash on my speed grip. I'm sure if I get more serious down the road I'll pick up something better...maybe when I get a camera with ttl metering.

Much obliged!

Mike Michaelski · Nov 29, 2008

If you look at the older Vivitar units, another one to check out is the Vivitar 365. It uses 8 "C" cells in a shoulder battery pack and is about twice as powerful as the 285. Usually comes with a platform for your camera and the metering unit attaches to the hotshoe (with a Safesync for modern cameras) so it's using reflected light to the lens for the thyristor circuit. They show up on the auction sites on a regular basis, and usually go for between 80-100 USD (up from about 50 a couple of years ago).
In tele mode, the guide number is 200 for ASA/ISO 100 according to the manual, the 285 is listed at a guide number of 140 (asa-feet). Corresponding DIN-Meter 365- DIN 21, 61 meters, 285 - DIN 21, 43 meters. YMMV.
Mike

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