My comparison was performed on a 4x5 Phillips. Regardless of fingernail or other palpation, I can detect no "buzz" at 1/60 with the Kern Dagor's Compur 3.I used them on a Phillips, Sal. Two different ones. And they do buzz like heck. Put your fingernail against the front aluminum riser of the front standard. Maybe this has marginal effect on something fairly stable like an 8x10 folder on a big Ries tripod, but it could distinctly compromise things at the end of a 4x5 monorail...
How can shutter "buzz"/movement impact optical performance in any way other than by inducing motion blur? I stand by my evaluation that 355mm Kern Dagor optics themselves are simply least sharp of the three lenses I compared. Restricted, as usual, to the samples of each that I possess....I'm not saying blur, but a deal-breaker in comparison to other choices, including the gentler no.3 Copal 3s used for the previous Kern run. No guessing here. I spent a lot of time and money on that one. So No no no no. It's not just the optics...
Not an obsolete ad. Go to the Linhof Studio page I linked in posts #20 and #23 and note that it still says "IN STOCK" for the 350mm Apo Tele Xenar Compact. I purchased one from them just a few months ago. Paula at Linhof Studio is scrupulous about keeping the stock status updated on that page. If anyone wants one, don't hesitate to order it....as far as any new Schneider 360 semi-teles out there, are you just surfing ads stuck in the system to the end of time; or does someone ACTUALLY have any left in stock...
The Fujinon was not only sharpest among this group, it has the most coverage. However, if one cannot find a clean sample, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend the Apo Tele Xenar Compact.
I have trouble making sense of this statement. Optical performance is what the lenses, mounted in their shutters, at the apertures and speeds I used, put on film. It's what I was interested in determining. Perhaps you're calling that "net" performance. If so, given that examination under 30X magnification revealed absolutely no evidence of image degradation due to shutter "buzz"/vibration, I maintain the Kern Dagor's "optical" and "net" performance (using your definitions) are identical under the conditions of my test. Although it has some wonderful characteristics for use on other formats, its glass just isn't as sharp as the others, rendering it inadequate for me to use on 4x5 for landscapes. I greatly enjoy it as a portrait lens on whole plate though....of course it doesn't impact actual optical performance but net performance, just like any big shutter...
Yes, they are. I have a 270mm G-Claron, purchased brand new not too many years ago. It's in a Copal 1 shutter. Just like my 300mm Fujinon A is. And the G-Claron, as a consequence of its different optical design and glass, is less sharp than the 300A. Nothing to do with shutters. The G-Claron just doesn't have the optical performance of the Fuji. However, that's not important on 8x10. And its focal length (equivalent to 135mm on 4x5) is not readily available in other lenses....even though a 355 G-Claron is very very similar to a Fujinon A optically (except for single vs multi-coatings), the Fuji will deliver sharper images in many cases due to the much smaller shutter. You might argue that the formulas are udifferent...
...The Fujinon was not only sharpest among this group, it has the most coverage. However, if one cannot find a clean sample, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend the Apo Tele Xenar Compact...
I cannot offer s numerical answer, but will provide an analogy.Possibly subjective to some but how much sharper are we talking in terms of the Fuji A vs 350 Apo Tele?
In my comparison, I printed the two resulting negatives, using an LPL 4500II with glass negative carrier and 120mm Nikkor AM-ED as an enlarging lens, at a magnification of 1.5X. In other words, the full-negative prints were 5.5 inches x 7.125 inches. Even in those small prints, the Apo Sironar N print was visibly sharper than the Apo Sironar S print. A subtle but noticeable difference. That's about how much sharper I'd subjectively describe the 360mm Fujinon As as being than the 350mm Apo Tele Xenar in this recent comparison.
I don't have an Apo Rodagon N enlarging lens, but, even if I did, it's optimized for 6X magnification and specified as usable down to 2X. At 1.5X, the 120 Nikkor AM-ED, which is an 8-element macro lens optimized for 1X, performs superbly. It doesn't have enough coverage for much larger prints than, say, whole plate size from 4x5 negatives, but I don't think anything can beat it at 1.5X. I doubt I'll ever encounter a 170mm Apo El-Nikkor, which was optimized for 2X from 4x5 and is extraordinarily rare, but suspect the 120mm AM-ED is just as well corrected for 1.5X. I did buy a misrepresented ("brand new") 180mm Apo Nikkor to try for 4x5 enlarging, but its rear element was badly scratched and I returned it to the eBay seller for a full refund, including shipping both ways....interesting you use the AM 120 Nikkor, aside from price and rarity is there a reason for that over say a 150 Apo N?...
Yes, my N is sharper throughout the 4x5 field. My scene places most objects, including the resolution chart, 50 feet away. The N series was computed for 1:20, while the S was designed for 1:10. While the S might maintain its central sharpness further out from the center, it never reaches the N's sharpness under these conditions. I had the film oriented vertically and around 14mm or front rise when making this comparison of the 135s....you are saying the 135 N is sharper than the S and not the other way around? I have heard it is in the center but not sure at what distance...
My back yard isn't that big so I settle on 50 feet as the best available test simulation of infinity....Now I am wondering how it compares at or near infinity because that is how I mostly use the 350...
I have both a Fujinon 180mm A and a Nikkor 200M, each purchased new. At f/22, with no movements, the M is sharper than the A everywhere except dead center of a 4x5 field....I had two different Fuji 180 A's, and they even more crisp than my Nikkor 200M on 4x5...
The recent comparison testing I completed also included a 210mm Rodenstock Apo Sironar N and a 210mm Schneider Apo Symmar. Both plasmats were sharper overall than either the 180A or 200M; the Apo Symmar was sharper than the Caltar, living up to its reputation. To reiterate, these exposures of my back yard "standard scene" that includes a resolution chart 50 feet away were made at f/22. The 180A was purchased from Badger two years ago and represents Fuji's latest production. So far, my results line up with those Christopher Perez and Kerry Thalmann published...I had two different Fuji 180 A's...either type is sharper than any 210 general-purpose plastmat I've ever personally encountered...
In my opinion, Joe was right. My 180A is EBC multicoated and from Fuji's most-refined production. It falls short on the edges, just like old ones and every other one did....Joe Holmes gave me quite a lecture about this once; but I'm convinced he tried these A lenses way back when, well prior to when I started using them in no-doubt later rendition...
I bought the 180A for use on 5x7, hoping that reports of its poor edge resolution were attributable to any of the wishful thinking causes you've mentioned. No such luck; it's not even as good as the 200M for that use, even with minimal movements. Others agree with my assessment:...You would start getting falloff with strong movements on 5x7...
That's why I said the 180A might make a nice lens for roll film....But the real test of sharpness is not large negs, but highly enlarged little ones. And in this respect, ALL my Fuji A's and Nikkor M's are critically sharp using 6x9 roll film...
What's overkill to you is a baseline requirement for me. In my opinion, 4x5 is an awfully small piece of film; 5x7 is a bit better. I'm interested in small enlargements that resemble contact prints as closely as possible. The 180 A doesn't do it, even at 1.3X. That's only whole plate size from 5x7. And my enlarging lens for 5x7 is a 240mm Apo Nikkor....So this is a bit of an academic argument between us. We're talking about overkill in terms of image quality...
To each his own. If the negative will be enlarged at all, I want to start with nothing less than the sharpest image possible. Out of focus areas are, in my work, to be avoided. And 8x10 negatives don't, in my opinion, contain a surplus of information. By the time one stops down enough to avoid out of focus areas, diffraction renders them just sharp enough for contact prints.I'm more interested at this point in my life in less analytically sharp lenses, namely those with a bit more character in the out-of-focus areas, esp for 8x10 work where there tends to be a surplus of information on the negative anyway.
Not difficult at all. See the link I included as part of posts #20 and #23. In stock for immediate delivery....The 350mm Apo Tele Xenar ...appear to be a bit difficult to find.
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