Download the Nikkormat FTn manual (assuming you got the FTn) from butkus.org or another source, and there is a section in the manual called "Stop-down exposure measurement." There is a picture in the manual.
Does anyone know a tutorial on how to do stop down metering? A video (or anything with images) would also be very helpful.
I've only started with film photography and I'm thinking about buying a japanese Nikon Nikomat SLR camera (it is not a Nikkormat!)
Hello. Second time posting on the forum!
I've only started with film photography and I'm thinking about buying a japanese Nikon Nikomat SLR camera (it is not a Nikkormat!). I have a few questions though: first and foremost, will it be compatible with the more modern analog Nikon lenses I already have here?
Also, I heard somewhere that the light meter uses a kind of battery that is not in production anymore. Is it worth it anyway?
The ones I really wanted were a Nikon FM-2 or F2/F3 but they are way too expensive for me right now. I could also try other brands, but I already have a lot of Nikon lenses and adapters here so it does not seem worth it.
I also thought about buying a Nikon F-601, but it appears to be very plastic-y and I don't really trust the durability (reliability?) of the electronic parts. I also saw a review saying it does not work very well with manual focus lenses, is it true?
#1 How did the store "test" a camera with no meter? They were blowing smoke up your skirt or pants or a*s.
Beyond that if it's inexpensive it's a rugged camera if you're willing to deal with no meter. I and many others use sunny 16 (sunny11 in the UK).
Notice it has NO metering prong or battery compartment
the trick with lens compatibility is it requires that the lens has the little aperture prong (the so called "bunny ears"). Most pre-autofocus lenses have them, but most autofocus lenses don't, and the "Series E" manual focus lenses don't either. Also, make sure you learn the indexing motion and perform it every time switching lenses. (mount the lens, turn the aperture ring to the largest aperture, then to the smallest aperture, then back to where you want it.) That makes sure that meter know the aperture range of the lens.
yeah, I don't pay attention to that, I just twist it back and forth a couple times. that way it always works.
And did he also tell you to use one shutter speed and one F-Stop all the time so you would not wear out the meter?Yeah, I did the same thing back in the '70's with my first Niikon -- a Nikomat FTn -- until an anal camera store owner claimed that doing so was wearing out its light meter.
Marc
And did he also tell you to use one shutter speed and one F-Stop all the time so you would not wear out the meter?
I've found that moving the aperture back and forth will often cure the Meter Jitters. Also Radio Shack TV tuner cleaner- when you could get it, Tape Head cleaner works as will- but you have to get to the resistor ring.
Abruzzi, do you mean this? (image below) I'm confused because the ones on the actual lenses have two little holes on them. It may sound dumb, but... if an adapter has the "bunny ears", could I possibly attach an autofocus lens (or any lenses without them) to the FTN by using it? Or is that just not a thing.
I have a Nikkormat FT3. What's the best and sharpest lenses it would take without modification? Also note that the metering sometimes works and sometimes gets stuck at one end. That part doesn't seem reliable.
Alan,
The 105mm f2.5 Nikkor has a stellar reputation for sharpness.
AI or AIS, newer versions.
IIRC, the FT-3 has a foldable AI indexing tab to allow use of AI lenses and Pre -AI lenses.
With pre-AI lenses, the tab would need to be "up", and you would need to meter with the depth-of-field-preview button depressed. (" Stop-Down Metering" ).
Mounting a Pre-AI lens with the tab "down" will damage the camera.
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