SLR Body lightmeter must work for LOMO Anamorphic in front of Fluro Ektar 110

[Mustafa Umut Sarac]

I have two extremelly large and heavy lenses.

One of them is Fluro Ektar 110 and Other one LOMO Anamorphic Cine Lens.

I found they can work like a train with a SLR body. I have no light meter and I need a camera body which will measure incoming light precisely when the
lens distance is 1 cms or more to body .

I want to pay 30 dollars or so for a body may be plastic nikon.

Total weight is around 12 kilograms and add to this a giant bracket and tripod.

Umut

 

[summicron1]

you should probably put this in the buy/sell forum under "WTB" wanted to buy -- what mount does your lens have, or what can you adapt it to? A Nikon or canon body for that price should not be hard to find.

should be interesting to see those two lenses stacked up.

 

[Mustafa Umut Sarac]

There is no mount on these lenses , they are for strange cameras. I can only point the back of the Ektar in front of camera. I want to know does the camera lightmeter correctly measure the light ?

 

[trythis]

EOS 620

 

[Axle]

IMO.... it would be best to use an external meter. Something like an Incident Meter (Gossen Luna Pro F or similar) or a Spot Meter to get precise metering.

 

[Mustafa Umut Sarac]

Axle , you are right but an 40 years old as is lightmeter is more expensive than 25 years old body .

 

[Fixcinater]

IMO.... it would be best to use an external meter. Something like an Incident Meter (Gossen Luna Pro F or similar) or a Spot Meter to get precise metering.

But the incident meter outside of the weird lens + SLR body contraption would not be measuring precisely what is going to be hitting the film at any given magnification ratio.

Sure you could calculate what it *should* be but there are too many variables for me to waste film when any reasonably modern SLR body will take all of that into account and if he's using negative film, the film will take care of any slight inaccuracies that the SLR body might have.

 

[Mustafa Umut Sarac]

Yes , I am thinking Superia , cheap and very high quality. I found that EOS 620 suggestion have a reason because it has 6 sensors in the camera , or they say segmented or honeycomb , I am 1930s rangefinder guy and have no idea about modern stuff. May be center weight is the best idea. I dont know if there is light meter sensor location difference between cameras. I had a Leicaflex and it has a light meter in the back middle of the mirror.

My reason is to open that thread , the knowledge between different bodies and their sensor placement.

And going from there.

 

[Fixcinater]

I've used manual focus lenses with cheap brass adapters on a few EOS cameras and their metering performance seems to be at it's best when you are using the lens wide open or nearly so. You should be OK if you are using the lens without any aperture, and using Superia you should have no problems with light levels that a little experimentation can't resolve.

Stopping down the aperture on my EOS 3 with the manual focus adapted lenses seems to tend towards underexposure but it's not very predictable moving from one lens to another. Some 50mm f/1.4 lenses need +2 EV at f/8, some need no correction.

I would use an EOS camera over anything that Nikon made given the shorter flange to film distance (more flexibility in getting infinity focus) and the ability to always stick it in Aperture Priority mode if you are not wanting to use full manual mode.

I have the preference for center weighted metering if I am using Aperture Priority.