Slow speeds on Kiev 4a

I've had this camera several months and for some reason never tried the slow speeds until today and found that the dial won't go lower than 1/25 - feels like a definite stop, not the somewhat spongy feel it has otherwise. Is there some sort of 'trick' to getting to the slower speeds, or is it time it takes a trip to Fedka (or suggest a good repair facility - Please!) Otherwise I'm really liking this camera, so much so that a Kiev 2a is on it's way but this one had a CLA & new shutter ribbons 2 years ago so it'll be interesting to compare the two. Thanks.......

Bob

What year is it?
Let me guess...late 70's?

Who knows what's going on inside there but the way the shutter speeds are set is by a pawl and could easily be bent or some crud in there.

I had to strip my 4a down to the shutter to try and fix a leak from the front rangefinder window

I had to stop because it would've meant taking the rangefinder prism out and I need to see if it messes up the calibration.

Anyway, the top is pretty easy to take off and you could at least see if something is amiss directly under the speed selector. Mine had a bunch of grit and crap and I cleaned that out and the selector action is smoother now but not precision.

Good luck, I'm betting the 2a is gonna be way better in operation.

Thanks Bruce! it's a '61, I read the Kiev story therefore avoided anything from the late 60's on. Judging from the condition of the camera and case I would guess it wasn't used that much and maybe even never at those slower speeds. So it's had 50 years to collect whatever.

I've never taken a camera apart, but there's no time like the present......

Art,
Go here
http://www3.telus.net/public/rpnchbck/the%20basics%20top%20casting%20removal.html

It's not too bad.

A '61 should be good. I read the factory was producing nicely then.
Mine is a 79 which isn't the best era for these.

Hi

The slow speed logic is in the shutter crate and you will need to remove, the top embillisher plate (chrome), the top plate, and then the shutter crate.

All simple to do, small number of screws, none spring loaded...

There should be enough free wire to leave the flash synch c0nnection intact...

Normally the problem is grease turned to gum/rubber, and Zippo dripped from separated tweasers on each escapement/moving part should do. Dont use force as much if the logic is wristwatch style cogs/controls.

Ive not hae a speed selector jam but it is possible... normally the wind on is frozen.

The shutter module will stay in one piece if you are careful, but please heed Russ advice about keeping it that way. (add another 3 hours if you neglect ths)...

About two hours to remove the module and reassemble if it is only zippo you need. Add very fine sewing machine oil to any moving parts zippoed afterwards, most will run dry so dont use much. Hopefully nothing is broken...

Noel
P.S. The light sealing under the tip plate is marginal, and I normally add black plastic and black foam under the plate to ensure 100%, performance The light can leak into the sprocket shaft and up to film. Just gloe in more dont move or adjust anything, some bits need to move.

Thanks for the encouragement guys, think I'm gonna go for it, probably tomorrow when I'll have some quiet time.

Bob