In the 1970s and 1980s when I was doing Cibachrome, I favored slightly darker slides for printing. In fact I never had them mounted, I had the Kodachrome returned as a complete roll and cut them in strips of six to file them just like my B&W negatives.
Exposure must also account for the end use of the slides; projection-only use is not the same as e.g. print-only use. Exposure for each is unique to deliver the best results.
The general "rule" concerning exposure of film is very simple (with digital there are a lot of options of correct/best exposure/raw/post - what is from my point the main reason of misunderstending film exposure today :I still occasionally shoot some slides althou I might be switching over to C41 and B/W a bit more due to it being more versatile. Re: slide film do you guys expose it for how the slide looks or what you end up doing with it later ie capture the detail?
I have thought about exposing the slide and then maybe underexpose it to make it look like how the scene looked. I am questioning myself that. That would limit myself right?
Looking forward to your comments. Thanks.
Reading your post, I can envision the scene you were grappling with, even though I am only vaguely familiar with Wellington and the harbour area!
"Surreal sunsets and sunrise"?? "Explosive sunsets and sunrises..." Jeez, you been watching too many Hollywood hitters!?
But to the answer: Dunno, I'm usually looking the other way (more about this in a bit!...)
Although I am active in the sunrise and sunset hours, I am pointing my camera the other way -- east! No great ball of fire there, of course, but this is where the soft, beautiful pastel tones of the afterglow (the correct terminology is the Rise of the Belt of Venus and Earth's Shadow which progressively becomes thicker and higher after sunset in the west, until it peeters out into a deep then dusky mauve and blue then to darkness). And here's the thing: if you want to, you can actually meter this arty-farty display (the colours, not the plain sky).
New Zealand, like Australia, is bathed in the white glare of a southern temperate light, longer in the morning and shorter in the evening.That is to say, places like the Southern Alps are especially difficult to meter and photograph well at sunrise and sunset because of the big variation in contrast of shadowed foregrounds and brightly illuminated backgrounds (of mountains, mountains and yet more mountains!). I recall [New Zealand photographer] Craig Potton telling me in 2006 that virtually all of his images of the Southern Alps in his book required "reworking" because of the difficulty of the exposure (he used Ektachrome and Kodachrome).
It seems you were having an extreme confrontation with the light; I've been there, done that too (in 35mm). Velvia cannot take in that much variation in contrast (+/- 2 stops in bright point light, rising to 6.5 stops in overcast to flat light; to 8 stops for Provia 100F). The solution is not more and many ND filters, but finding the right balance of light. No, we can't play God and request a Command Performance, but we can only hope!
I avoid sunrise and sunsets because of the extreme contrast that Velvia 50 (particularly) is not able to satisfactorily handle, and I don't waste time trying to get a leg over it.
How the camera meters vs other options also matters. I do not use in-camera metering (which is rudimentary 50-year old tech!), but multispot-mean weighted averaged metering with shift of the mid-tone. What are you using, and how?
Compromise of your scene (beside abandonment, as a last, teary-eyed resort!) is likely; rather than vast open spaces of contrasty (black) nothingness, scout around to include a particularly striking or worthwhile central point of interest in the frame, and let the sunrise or sunset take back seat to that, but I strongly suspect the camera will blow out the background completely in order to bring up the foreground correctly -- this is what I am reading. My solution would be to go out there immediately after a storm (a typical New Zealand 'southerly clearance', in Kiwi-speak!) when the light is software and the contrast lower. I had one such situation at Milford Sound in 2015, emerging from the camper after 48 hours stuck in it because of the storm. The fiery red glow over Mitre Peak was a sight to behold yet it lasted all of 3 minutes and I had to settle for a a glow more orange then fiery!
My methodology with multispot metering is to never meter the sky unless it has a very definite interest and/or variation in tonality e.g. clouds that are backlit by the sun, creating the 'tiara effect'. It is a dreadful coincidence that at the time of writing this, 90km away in Melbourne I have a couple of slides being printed that would demonstrate where the emphasis is put in a scene where both the main subject and patterned sky are competing for attention.
Thanks for that. It's the end use of it. In the past I have kinda went with that it looks beautiful on the lightbox.
Just a related question with modern E6 film. I know they work well on a hazy day. How do they deal with surreal sunsets and sunrise? I like explosive sunsets and sunrises. Film like Velvia is contrasty and shooting a constrasty scene. Just the other day, I went out with a few grad filters (2 and 3 stops in the soft and hard transitions). I found that I really had to be near the water where the sun was reflecting off, if I was further back the foreground rocks wasn't really lit by the sun the dynamic range was just too wide. I stood there 30mins before sunset and 30min after sunset the closest I was, at best maybe 4 or 5 stops (from the foreground to the sky). I even had times when the difference was 7 stops difference. I came to the conclusion I couldn't really shoot it. I could had stacked a 3 stop ahrd with a 2 stop soft perhaps but challenging.
When I learnt photog. Galen Rowell shot slide film with punchy sun scenes.
Hart to say how a sceene in landcape looks exactly (from behind)!A correctly exposed slide will look exactly like the original scene, whether it was bright sun or heavy overcast. I've shot thousands of slides. Many thru an OM-4T, which has one of the most sophisticated metering systems of any camera, but others with 70 year old folders and a 70 year old selenium meter. Every one of them has come out perfect unless I just screwed something up. Stop second guessing and trust your meter.
That being said, Velvia 100 is a horrible film. So contrasty and dark that it's pretty useless for real world scenes. Velvia 50 is much better, but still contrasty. Provia has a tremendous range and is very user friendly. I've only shot a couple rolls of the new Ektachrome, but it looks very accommodating too.
I avoid sunrise and sunsets because of the extreme contrast that Velvia 50 (particularly) is not able to satisfactorily handle, and I don't waste time trying to get a leg over it.
What are you using, and how?
Sekonic 758 Cine with the spot meter. It has a ruler display scale that shows me the stops difference between the 2 metered values. I meter the foreground and the the sky but away from the sun. This time my Nikon F100 in manual mode (for testing) but usually one of my medium formats.
Kia ora, Welly—
If your slides show blown highlights or blocked, dense shadows (right to the point of zero detail), they are, in plain-speak, incorrectly exposed (in terms of specific bias, the exposure is often too long to record detail in highlights) and this very often occurs when the film is exposed in conditions it was not designed for e.g. beside the uniqueness of Kodachrome, which often looked "OK" in bright sunlight, modern day E6 films are a different and altogether-testy beast to poke: they can look just awful in bright point light (a fault I see far too often — the message about exposure just does not get through), and they certainly did not print well to the Ilfochrome Classic print process when exposed in a cavalier, careless way. Conversely, take any of them out in hazy to overcast light and modulate exposure and you will have both correct highlights and shadow detail — in essence, the slides will be beautiful to gaze at on the lightbox.
Exposure must also account for the end use of the slides; projection-only use is not the same as e.g. print-only use. Exposure for each is unique to deliver the best results.
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