Simple chemicals questions: developing prints

[IloveTLRs]

Well, I setup my darkroom last night, and I'm ready to go I need to pick up some paper and chemicals tonight on the way home.

1.) Can the same stop used for film be used for prints? (Not reused, I mean same acidic acid.) What's the mixture, about 5%-10% acid to water?

2.) Can the same fix used for film be used for prints? What's the mixture there?

 

[Bill Burk]

I've seen formulas that say for 28% acetic acid, use 3 ounces acid to 64 ounces water.

But I wanted to use grocery store distilled vinegar which is 5% acetic acid.

I figure the same concentration would be 8 ounces vinegar to 24 ounces water.

 

[dpurdy]

Fix for film is generally stronger than fix for prints. You need to be careful not to bleach your prints.

 

[w9cae]

I dont use STOP for film or paper just a plain water wash. I am using AGFA chemicals.

 

[mike c]

One thing to consider is if you use the same chemicals for fiber paper and then use it on film you might get some of the fiber stuck to your films emulsion.

 

[Slixtiesix]

No problem, you can make solutions from the same concentrate for film and paper, this goes for both stop and fixer. Just do not use fixer or stop which had already been used for film/paper the other way round. Especially do not use fixer that had already used for paper for film, it might degrade the archival quality.
Using fixer in high concentrations like it is used with film for paper is no problem, fix times will be shorter, around 60 seconds for RC paper. I recommend to visit the Ilfordphoto-site, there you will find plenty of information about fix concentrations and fixing times.

Regards, Benjamin

 

[Bob-D659]

Stop bath is around 2.5% acetic acid, cut 5% vinegar 50/50 with water.

 

[mooseontheloose]

Stop bath -- some people don't use it, but many people do. If you don't use it, it means that your fixer will exhaust more quickly because of the carry-over of the developer. With some processes (for example, lith printing), you really want to use a stop to stop the development immediately. Stop bath is really cheap and lasts a long time -- for most printing I don't see why you wouldn't want to use it. However, what you are printing, the chemicals you are using, and the tray space you have available will all be determinants as to whether or not you want to use a stop bath. Personally, I always use a stop bath for paper, but I never do for film, since I don't reuse fix for film. I'm sure you'll get many different responses concerning this.

Fix for film is usually 1+4, and although you can fix paper at that strength (for half the time), it's more economical to do the recommended 1+9 dilution for paper. Again, this is probably dependent on the type of fixer you use.

And, as the others have said, you can use the same kind of stop bath and fix for both film and paper, just keep the solutions separate (fixer for film, fixer for paper).

 

[IloveTLRs]

Thanks for all the replies.
For developer I went with Fuji Korektol E (since they didn't have anything else.)
I used regular stop bath and it worked fine.
For fixer I used Fujifix somethingorother, the same that I use for film.
All the chemicals worked fine and I was able to get some half-way decent prints

 

[dancqu]

Visa Versa

Using fixer in high concentrations like it is used
with film for paper is no problem, fix times will
be shorter, .... Regards, Benjamin

Or visa versa. Using fixer in low concentrations as it
is used with paper for film is no problem. Fix times for
film will increase and of course capacity is reduced in
proportion to the dilution; half the capacity at paper
strength. I use film fixer VERY dilute one-shot. Dan

 

[jasonh]

And, as the others have said, you can use the same kind of stop bath and fix for both film and paper, just keep the solutions separate (fixer for film, fixer for paper).

I guess I should go buy some new fixer before I develop any more film. Oops.

 

[Ian Grant]

2.) Can the same fix used for film be used for prints? What's the mixture there?

Don't re-use fixer used fir Films with prints. The silver iodide used in films can cause problems with image permanence with prints, particularly fibre based.

But I think you mean to use it seperately anyway.

Ian

 

[IloveTLRs]

Yes, I mix separate chemicals for film and prints. "Super Fujifix-L" can be used for both.

 

[BBarlow690]

I really like Sprint Rapid Fix. I use it 1:4 (film strength) for paper and it fixes fiber paper in 30 sec. Yippee! Out of the darkroom faster.

Michael Smith and Paula Chamlee use conventional fixer for a minute, then put prints in a holding bath. They fix again for, uh, I think 4 minutes, and then fix a second (third?) time before toning. Works for them. I've tried that, and it works for me, too. But I still love Rapid Fix. Unless I'm using Amidol, which, in combination with the rapid fix has given me stains. Ouch. Amidol plus regular Kodak fixer is just fine, a la Michael and Paula.

 

[IloveTLRs]

Fujiblo? Fujibro? paper comes with complete instructions:
> Korektol E dev for 90 seconds
> stop for 10~15 seconds
> fix for 3~5 minutes (or shorter with more agitation)
> wash for 5~10 minutes.
I use the timer on my iPhone to alert me when to take prints out of the fix. No problems so far (yellowing, I mean.) The smell of the chemicals brings me back to college.

 

[Niall Bell]

I never have used stop bath for film. ALways used water. No problems so far.

Also, I use same fix for both film and paper, but keep very close watch on throughput. If printing something "important" I always use fresh fix.
Niall

 

[Ian Grant]

Also, I use same fix for both film and paper, but keep very close watch on throughput.
Niall

The through put/capacity is way different for films than prints, films can safely tolerate a much higher silver content in the fixer so it's far more sensible to use separate fixer.

Welcome to APUG BTW.

Ian