Everyone I know who originally went with Software, is now using ViewScan which, I believe, will support your scanner.
..could you please elaborate (or maybe point me in a direction where II can learn about these things)?I offer the following solution: ColorPerfect plugin! Scan a linear file with Silverfast, and then convert to your gamma encoded space with the plugin.
ACROS is perhaps the most glaring omission
To be honest I don't have the time / patience and maybe neither the skills to make my own, it's really quite tedious I think.
Although you could, by selecting 'OTHER' , for not having any profile, we have never done it.Out of curiosity, how has having a film profile helped you?
Although you could, by selecting 'OTHER' , for not having any profile, we have never done it.
Accuracy is only in the eye of the beholder, and their arbitrary manner, as in who is we?I take it that a profile may help, but in an arbitrary manner and more to suit the taste then "accuracy".
Profiling can also be used on the input side to ensure that the in-computer colors (the numbers in the file and the associated PCS) match the original scene. I do this regularly using a Wolf Faust target and Argyll. I obtain (what I see as) natural colors without any guesswork or adjustment.Profiling is carried out in post (after and only after all other adjustments are completed), with the objective of matching the input to the output e.g. printer profiles.
..could you please elaborate (or maybe point me in a direction where II can learn about these things)?
I remeber playing around with the demo-version of ColorPerfect (or ColorNeg back then) years ago, until I realised I'd need to invest a lot more time to get a grip on all this.
Would be willing and able to put in the work / time now though
: ]
2019 update: I wrote to technical support at Silverfast to ask about an Acros profile. The response:
"Dear Dr. *****,
Since this film is a normal B&W without any orange mask you can use the generic greyscale curve or even linear conversion for this film.
Best regards,
Arne Ketelhohn
- LSI Support and Test Expert -"
Well, that did not amount to much. I have encountered similar poor tech support from them in the past. Oh, well.....
I know I'm replying to a post from 2017, but I'm very, very late with my scanning project and your comment above caught my eye. (Long story. Life "happens.") I have a Nikon 5000 ED with the SF-210 batch feeder, if that matters. Do you remember what specific reasons why the results were better with Silverfast. Right now I'm recuperating from surgery, so I'm hoping that within a month or so I will begin my comparison of Nikonscan vs. Silverfast vs. Vuescan. I have about 20 K slides to scan, mostly Kodachrome, some Ektachromes, as well as Plus-X and Tri-X B&W. It's impossible to find a Kodachrome IT-8 target these days for less than a king's ransom, so a "Kodachrome mode" is very important for me. Like others, I really don't want to have to create my own profile, in this case Kodachome.Not going to engage in a Silverfast vs. Vuescan argument (again), only to mention that having used both extensively, I would never go back to Vuescan, at least for the Nikon 9000 ED, even with all the Silverfast GUI oddities. The end results keep me in Silverfast.
Ok.. Back in 2016 something or maybe earlier, did a mess of scans from old 35mm slides for a local artist who wanted to print a biography of his life as an oil painter, using Sliverfast. Think it would have been impossible in any other program, and had tried a few. Oh my, all the different films, different developing Technics, fade, change of color with age ect. There was only one image of a painting that we couldn't 'save' using Silverfast.Peter,
Please see my immediate previous post, #17.
I am quite aware that Silverfast can be a PIA, and that if I do go with Silverfast, I should shell out for the third-party guidebook. I'm going to guess here that the attitude inside Silverfast is that you should "work hard" to learn the program. My career was in software product management and occasionally I would work with software developers who had that attitude.\Ok.. Back in 2016 something or maybe earlier, did a mess of scans from old 35mm slides for a local artist who wanted to print a biography of his life as an oil painter, using Sliverfast. Think it would have been impossible in any other program, and had tried a few. Oh my, all the different films, different developing Technics, fade, change of color with age ect. There was only one image of a painting that we couldn't 'save' using Silverfast.
It was done one slide at a time. Never got a Kodachrome IT-8 target, but learned, the scan process of how to do Kodachrome via the Kodachrome setting on Silverfast, through trail and error. Of all the slides he had, the Kodachrome ones where the best, and these where of the later Kodachrome emulsion..
So why this reply.? Silverfast can be a PIA, but is a very good program. Remember your in analog, so when your felling better do your tests, and see which one you like the best, but remember, analog is not instant gratification.
Mr. jtk is right. What is the "right" Kodachrome? For that matter, what is the "right" color for a scene that you might have photographed a long time ago? I think it is a matter of taste. Suppose you scan a Kodachrome slide in a way that perfectly mirrors the tones and colors in the emulsion. Is that what the scene looked like? Do you really remember months or years later? Was the sky really that color? Are the flesh tones a bit too tan-looking? It is pretty subtle. I think if you like the way the slide looks on your monitor or on your printer, that is all that counts.There has been no such thing as "Kodachrome" since forever There were at least a half dozen different variants before most "Kodachrome" shooters were ever aware of scanning. Different Kodachrome emulsions, different chems, different Kodak labs and their processing iterations. This was well known to high level slide duplication/graphics labs.
Boy, don't remember exactly what we did, but as we recall, there were about three step settings we changed consistently.How much did you need to tweak the default Kodachrome settings to get the results you liked?
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