Silver Oxide vs. Lithium Batteries
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OK............. a useful link..... Thank You
MattKing
Moderator
If it is still possible to update your thread title....
It reads as two slightly different printing approaches, rather than "Silver Oxide vs. Lithium batteries"
It reads as two slightly different printing approaches, rather than "Silver Oxide vs. Lithium batteries"
In the past for Bronica SQ and GS models, the official word was NOT to use lithium cells; for ETRS the lithium cells was added to the OK to use list.
Similarly, the Olympus OM-4 was NOT recommended to use with the 3V lithium DL1/3N, but could use alkaline or silver oxide cells.
Similarly, the Olympus OM-4 was NOT recommended to use with the 3V lithium DL1/3N, but could use alkaline or silver oxide cells.
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MattKing
Moderator
And current ones - without the change, no one would have guessed the thread was about batteries.I changed it, not sure why
................. is it for (future) searches.?
I had to read it twice to be absolutely sure, but the title change is a good suggestion. The post is short enough that this confirmation took an additional 100 milliseconds (approximately).
MattKing
Moderator
Some of us actually skip over threads sometimes if the title doesn't interest us....
I understand. It appears that you should have skipped over this one!
MattKing
Moderator
Actually ...
I like a good title - it just makes me happy!
On the subject of the batteries, the challenge is that many of the cameras were manufactured before the lithium batteries first appeared. And there are differences in how each of the types perform.
With respect to the Mamiya 645 models that use that same battery - historically referred to as a PX28 - the manuals for the earlier versions refer to the alkaline and silver oxide versions, whereas the manuals for the newer models say: "The camera requires a 6V alkaline, silver oxide or lithium battery."
The suitability of the lithium versions may vary with the cameras - the latter cameras may have had their designs changed to accommodate them.
I would be cautious unless and until you can determine whether the particular model of camera you have is compatible with the lithium batteries.
I like a good title - it just makes me happy!
On the subject of the batteries, the challenge is that many of the cameras were manufactured before the lithium batteries first appeared. And there are differences in how each of the types perform.
With respect to the Mamiya 645 models that use that same battery - historically referred to as a PX28 - the manuals for the earlier versions refer to the alkaline and silver oxide versions, whereas the manuals for the newer models say: "The camera requires a 6V alkaline, silver oxide or lithium battery."
The suitability of the lithium versions may vary with the cameras - the latter cameras may have had their designs changed to accommodate them.
I would be cautious unless and until you can determine whether the particular model of camera you have is compatible with the lithium batteries.
I have no data on the circuitry in various cameras and how it might rely on battery voltage as a reference for either shutter speed (unlikely) or metering. I do know, however, that the Pentax digital spotmeter needs a silver oxide PX28 to ensure consistent readings as its battery charge is drawn down:
I have three Canon New F1's Chip and two Canon F1n's. I always use Duracell PX 28L lithium batteries in the New F1's that I just changed today after about seven years of use, and Duracell CR32 Lithium batteries with an MR9 voltage reducing adaptor, they are more expensive than the Silver Oxide ones but last considerably longer,
Based upon what happened with Bronica (addition of Lithium support only for the smallest shutter of the three Bronica models), one might speculate that the Lithium cell did not provide sufficient high current flow to support the larger diameter Seiko shutters.
The original member's post was about his Canon New F1, I doubt he has a Zenza Bronica, and after my several decades of usage of these batteries, I can assure you that is the best option for his camera, not only because they are the longest-lasting but also because they don't leak.
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Oh My God that's a long time.!
I just ordered a pack of 8 Alkaline for 7 bux, delivered to my house.
As soon as the hit about 5.8 or 5.7 Volts.........i toss then into the battery recycle bag and toss in a new one.
I will have to try Lithium..........that's a battery Matt
............when i run out of Alk.
Yes, but the topic was 'the practical difference' between the two battery chemistries, not about the suitability in the F1, per se, as the F1 comment was 'FWIW...'
And the F-1 user manual is clear about all three chemistry batteries being suitable. no speculation or understanding of the differences is necessary.
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MattKing
Moderator
So I guess the thread title change served as a welcome reminder
!It occurs to me that this would be a good question for the camera repair people - the ones who are still out there repairing these cameras.
Be careful with the Alkaline ones Chip keep an eye on them and test them often because what's cheap in the short term can be very expensive in the long run if they leak that Alkane batteries are prone to do and Lithium ones don't.Oh My God that's a long time.!
I just ordered a pack of 8 Alkaline for 7 bux, delivered to my house.
As soon as the hit about 5.8 or 5.7 Volts.........i toss then into the battery recycle bag and toss in a new one.
I will have to try Lithium..........that's a battery Matt
Personally, I would keep them as a backup and fit a Duracell PX 28L from Amazon, I just bought two of them and before installing them in my cameras tested them on my multimeter, and the voltage measured 6.5.
10-4... Good Advice..........i check them, bordering on obsession.
I pull it put if i am not using the camera often.
I did not see all of this coming.
Maybe its my own fault, perhaps i worded it poorly.
I was wondering if there was much advantage of using one type over the other.
Consistent voltage, long life, etc etc.
Consistent voltage over the life of silver oxide cells is the primary benefit.
whether that makes a major difference in metering is somewhat a function of circuit design. I have no idea about your camera but in general the flat curve of silver cells is preferred.
whether that makes a major difference in metering is somewhat a function of circuit design. I have no idea about your camera but in general the flat curve of silver cells is preferred.
I know there are voltage differences between silver oxide and lithium ion that can affect the light meter readings in older cameras. But silver oxide versus lithium -- I have no idea. I have several old cameras, and generally I look at the original manual (butkus.org) and use whatever Da Book recommends.
Much like a very old diesel-powered 1983 Suburban I own. Da Book says use straight 30-weight oil. There is much debate on forums whether multi-weight is okay, and oil technology has certainly changed in the last 38 years -- but I figured that if straight 30 weight worked in 1983, it will work just as well in 2021, so that's what I use. No point in second-guessing the engineers who designed the engine (though at 135 hp from 6.2 liters, it's not like they did an outstanding job).
Aaron
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