Hi there,
To darken a print you can use Fotospeed Chromium Intensifer and to lighten a print you can use Fotospeed Farmers Reducer both of which are sold by Fotoimpex. You can also easily mix these up from raw chemicals which you can buy from Saban Suvatlar Fototechnik, Simrockstraße 178a, 22589 Hamburg. 040/395709 |
Fotosuvatlar@live.de (I last bought stocks for my two-bath developer from them a couple of years ago, so, if they are no longer in business contact Wolfgang Moersch). Neither of these chemical treatments should be part of your regular workflow but, rather, as a way of saving a print when money is an issue.
The important thing is to get your prints correct for the intended viewing environment. I never look at my prints in daylight because they are never seen in daylight. They are either shown in an exhibition (with gallery lighting), displayed in our home during our annual open studio (with 100W lighting) or in the homes of purchasers (generally with 40W lighting). A long time ago I went around a number of galleries (not museums as they have pathetically low 'conservation' lighting which is the result of them using tungsten/halogen spot lighting that is detrimental to framed photographs / watercolours framed behind glass) and friends houses to meter the average lighting.
In my darkroom I have a strip light which, when a dry print is placed directly under the light on the viewing table, is the equivalent of the average gallery lighting. When a dry print is viewed by the entrance door, this is the equivalent of the average lighting in people's homes. These two viewing environments are what I use to judge dry prints.
The most important piece of kit in my darkroom is a microwave oven for drying fibre-based test strips for viewing in the appropriate viewing environment (i.e. either for exhibition / display during our open studios or for a purchaser to display in their home).
Bests,
David
www.dsallen.de