Shutter speed modification - Is It Possible?

[inthedark_06]

While searching for cameras in second-hand stores, swap meets and online, one thing I often look for (especially in cameras I am planning on using) is that the shutter speeds go at least to 1/500th of a second to allow for the usage of slow to mid-speed films (i.e up to 400 ISO) in a range of conditions. Would it be possible to disassemble a camera and adjust or add to the mechanics to allow for faster shutter speeds to be added? I understand that in a lot of cameras the shutter speed is controlled by different tensions of a spring. This would enable the usage of many other cameras for me that would otherwise be a great deal or even just an interesting camera.

Any comments or feedback is welcome. Thanks!

 

[albada]

Not likely.
The timing in electronic cameras is controlled by the electronics. Regarding mechanically-timed cameras:
Leaf shutters: You could replace the mainspring, boosting the "500" speed from 300 or 350 to perhaps 400. The 500 was usually wishful thinking with leaf shutters.
Focal plane shutters: You could increase tension on the rollers, making them move faster. But that would put more stress on parts when curtains stop. There's a chance you could reduce the slit-width at the max speed, but that would increase the chance of occasional capping.
IMO, the best approach is to buy a camera with a 1000 speed, which is common in older SLRs.

Mark

 

[Dustin McAmera]

Unless the camera is cheap junk, its shutter was designed by someone who knew their job, and if it could easily have gone faster, it probably would have.
On some mechanical leaf-shutters, the top speed does involve an extra spring, I think. Certainly it's tangibly harder to cock the shutter at that speed.
I suppose you could buy one really good leaf shutter, with no lens mounted in it, and mount it on the front of any lens, when you needed the extra speed (with the camera's own shutter open on 'B'; like the old Thornton-Pickard roller shutters (I don't think T-P shutters themselves went faster than about 1/100). Being run exposed to the open air like that might not be good for the shutter in the long term.

If you're struggling with too-bright light, the easy answer is an ND filter.

 

[Dan Daniel]

If you're struggling with too-bright light, the easy answer is an ND filter.

This. There are a variety of ways to adapt neutral density filters to cameras of all types.

Making a shutter go faster might be possible depending on the shutter, etc. Considering the hours needed to do this with no guarantee of results, I'd rather be out shooting with some ND filters in a pocket.

 

[4season]

If you are shooting color or b&w negative film, chances are that your film has sufficient exposure latitude that you can shoot ISO 400 film at f/11 + 1/250th second in bright sunlight with good results.

 

[Bill Burk]

If you are shooting color or b&w negative film, chances are that your film has sufficient exposure latitude that you can shoot ISO 400 film at f/11 + 1/250th second in bright sunlight with good results.

Yes! There may be times when an exposure meter will suggest that you need 1/2000 second at f/16 but usually it is a mistaken reading. Really there are few times when you need more than 1/250 at f/16.

Speeds of 1/2000 may be better suited to getting more lighting situations where you can shoot wide open.

I once broke the mainspring of an M-2 trying to get 1/1000 working. Youxin Ye fortunately had a spare chassis.

In general a 1/250 is a reliable speed for any camera and vintage cameras may not do much better.

 

[BobD]

On the Pentax Spotmatic SP500 the top speed on the dial is 1/500 but if you turn the dial one more notch it will give you 1/1000.

 

[monopix]

Unless the camera is cheap junk, its shutter was designed by someone who knew their job, and if it could easily have gone faster, it probably would have.

That's probably the best answer anyone can give.