Shutter lubrication

I have a Seiko #0 shutter that's mostly disassembled. The shutter blades have become clogged with oil and are barely moveable. I haven't gotten into that part yet. This shutter was professionally serviced something over 10 years ago.

I've found and taken note of a number of parts that have some dark grease on them that I assume is molybdenum grease. I'm trying figure out what type of molybdenum grease is appropriate to use? I haven't been able to turn up much info on this, as far as what brands to use. The only stuff I have on hand is ARP Moly Fastener Assembly Lube, which is left over from when I had an engine to rebuild.

For the slow speed escapement, I plan to use Nye Oil 140C once it's been through the ultrasonic cleaner.

Per Chris Sherlock.... moly powder is better than grease for these shutters.
Check his videos for information on how to

Molybdenum disulfide powder for the operating ring and its channel. Just a light rub to leave a sheen and blow off excess. Moly paste for lever pivots, latching or rubbing surfaces. Light rub also. You can make moly paste by mixing moly powder with Nye oil.

You can leave the escapement dry. Or apply a small rub of moly powder on the gears and a drop of oil on the gear shaft bushings.

You can use graphite instead of moly powder but apparently it is slightly abrasive.

PS. The Seiko is not an easy shutter to work on.

I've been using the same tube of Molykote G-N for years, but the more experienced I become, the less I use: A light film on areas which see high metal-on-metal contact forces, including leaf shutter cocking rings and gears, ought to suffice.

Seiko speed escapement on my Minoltina caused me some head-scratching: It obviously didn't run properly when clean and dry, but applying even my lightest oils wasn't working much better. That's when I remembered the trick of using oil diluted in solvent, and that did the trick. Some escapements work fine with even a generous drop of oil, but this wasn't one of them.

Molybdenum paste for metal on metal friction areas (but not shutter or aperture blades). I use Recoil Paste and just rub a bit into a paintbrush and then brush it on lightly: it should look like you have barely dirtied the surface of the metal, not glob it on.