A Mamiya 6 or 7 with a good representative of their glass might have that bump up in image quality you are wondering about. The lens pops out some I think, so not a folder.
The following probably is not what your asking, but I won't erase it...
It does seem that 35mm has had the advantage of research and development. Both film and digital cameras were getting smaller and smaller, but now seem to go with the smaller iPhones -- or back up in size to a full-size of a 35mm camera, or slightly less with the mirror-less cameras. It is a good size and they can feel right in one's hand. To make a 120 camera equally solid-feeling, I think it would start to weigh too much. There is a lot of empty space in a TLR Rollei. I have both flex and cords. Same quality build, but the extra bells and whistles of the flex makes it heavier and more solid feeling...but no change in IQ. The 'cord goes into the backpack!
True.While the 35mm SLR have more R&D, but the photons already know what to do so it comes down to lens optics and format size.
It's just that you seldom hear of a person moving from 35mm to a mf folder to get better IQ, they usually do it for the bigger neg and easy portability factor. The bigger neg doesn't necessarily lead to better IQ, just bigger enlargements, different grain, etc.
That may be the problem. Terminology. If someone needs or wants really big prints, then yes, they will take a hit in the print IQ if they move to a smaller format film and camera.
These days I do most of my film shooting in medium format (or larger in the case of pinhole work). I feel another factor with larger negatives is not so much optical performance as easier mechanical handling. The reduced magnification needed to produce a given size print from a larger negative tends to subdue the effects of dust and scuffs when viewing the final prints.
I also note that the human eye has its highest resolution near the center, and I think except in certain applications, sharpness of the central part of an image is more important than the periphery, especially the corners. Since most lenses are pretty decent in the center, assuming steady camera support and proper focus, the central area is the part that counts.
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You'd first have to find a way to deal with the sliver thin DoF projected from a wobbly standard onto wavy film.Probably the biggest shortfall of folders is that, due to when they were common, almost none have lenses with more modern designs like double Gauss or similar -- I have a 35 mm folder with a Xenon (not a Retina, which also offered that lens), but few if any larger folders had even 5-element upgrades from a Tessar type. Tessars are very good lenses, but they are an 1890-ish design; there were better options by 1945 or so, but very few of them are seen on folders because they tend to be bulkier than a Tessar or Heliar type and therefore reduce the advantage of a folding camera (a deep bulge in the bed/door means it's harder to carry around, won't fit in even a coat pocket, etc.).
I can see this difference between my Weltini (f/2 Xenon) and my Jubilette (f/2.9 triplet): the Jubilette is half and inch thinner than the Weltini, attributable almost entirely to the extra elements of the Xenon formula.
Now, put an f/2 or even f/2.8 Xenon on a camera like, say, my Super Ikonta B, and you'd make the already heavy camera heavier, require a still deeper bulge in the bed -- and gain little. A little sharper when near wide open, one stop better light gathering (or not, if you go with f/2.8).
If they are structurally intact (light tight bellows, no bending or deformation of any part of frame of body, and the lenses are clean (one advantage of triplets: No separation ever), and you stop them down to at least f8, they will wipe the floor with any 135 SLR.I think all four of my folders (built between 1924 & 1953) are limited to triplet lens designs. In addition their focusing is less precise than any SLR I've handled.
If the lenses were cleaned up carefully they might be able to beat the IQ of my Pentax Auto 110, but I doubt they'd be better than a 35mm SLR...
In general the bigger the negative; the higher the image quality. However, name brand system cameras, such as Hasselblad or Mamiya, often have excellent lenses available to them, which are hard to beat.Well Hasselblad is an SLR as is the Rollei 6000 series and both shoot 6x6 so the answer has to be yes as long as the lenses compared are similar in performance.
Now if you mean a 35mm SLR again assuming that the lenses compared are similar in performance, then the MF will be better.
Now if you want to compare a 4'"x5" Graflex Model D [an SLR] again assuming that the lenses compared are similar in performance, then the 4"x5" will be better.
Not to me or any other serious person I’ve encountered.The phrase 'image quality' is effectively weasel words, imho. IQ is composed of both objective AND subjective elements which makes a non-technical comparison moot. A more comprehensive concept, especially for experienced photographers, would be something like EQ (experience quality) which includes the film choice, loading, subject suitability, exposing, developing, printing/digitizing, and consumption/distribution of the 'final' image.
Some folks might give a high medium format EQ score to an Instax point & shoot while others won't fuss with anything less than their hedge fund manager's 'blad. Diff'rent strokes eh.
I had a Mamiya 7, great glass. Hard to beat a Heliar, but it has a different type of look. The Mamiya pics looked as if they came from a medium format Leica, very nice and sharp w/ quite a bit of 3D.
I wish you hadn't mentioned it, now I want another one!
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