Should I Pre-Soak Fuji Across 100?

[marcmarc]

Hi Everyone,

I picked up a couple rolls of the re-branded Fuji Acros 100 from Freestyle recently. I've never used it before but I've heard many good things about it. I noticed the fix turned a bright pink after pouring it back into the jar. I don't normally pre-soak films but since this is a new film to me should I take this step or not bother?
Thanks,
Marc

 

[Kirk Keyes]

I always presoak. But presoaking will most likely not change the color of the fix.

Acros is a great film - one of my favourites! Enjoy it.

 

[thebanana]

I've never presoaked this film. Never had a problem either.

 

[2F/2F]

I have soaked and pre soaked every film I have ever used, and never noticed any difference between the two methods in any of them. So, I have decided not to do it.

 

[jpberger]

The pink colour is normal, that's just the antihalation dye washing out of the film. If it's properly fixed and washed, film should be clear when it's done. I think whether or not you pre wash has more to do with the developing method then the film-- for stand developing or other procedures using highly dilute developer it seems to lessen the chance of streaking or uneven development. With conventional development with regular agitation it likely does not do much, but it won't hurt either. The one exception would be with a developer which you re use numerous times like diafine, in that instance one need be carefull not to dilute the developer with residual wash water.

 

[marcmarc]

Thanks for the replies. The film is normal color after the wash. I used to pre-soak efke films since so many people suggested it, but not with other films. Sadly, I won't be able to print any of these for some time, but so far my first roll looks pretty good. I souped in Rodinal 1+100 for 14 minutes.

 

[Michael W]

I've seen Tmax films make the fix turn pink also. I was told it's not a problem for the fix or anything else & I believe that.

 

[polyglot]

Yep, pink. It fades after a few minutes and the fix continues to work fine - by the time you get to the next roll, your fix will be quite clear again.

I never presoak it and don't think it would have any effect: after all, the dev does not wash any pink out so why would plain water?

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Hi Everyone,

I picked up a couple rolls of the re-branded Fuji Acros 100 from Freestyle recently. I've never used it before but I've heard many good things about it. I noticed the fix turned a bright pink after pouring it back into the jar. I don't normally pre-soak films but since this is a new film to me should I take this step or not bother?
Thanks,
Marc

A pre-soak will reduce the pink cast (anti-halation dye), but the dye poses no thread if it stays either. A better way to get rid of it, is the use of a hypo-clearing agent. Basically, everything lengthening the wet time will help to remove the dye.

I do not recommend a pre-soak unless the development time is very short (<4 min), in which case it does support even development. However, if you use a pre-soak, make sure it's long enough (>4 min) to not cause problems by itself (water staining).

With standard development times, a pre-soak is of little use, other than getting your tank and spiral to development temperatures. Some even claim that a pre-soak can be harmful, because it washes out some emulsion additives supporting the development process. I believe it is simply a waste of time unless you have to deal with very short development times.

If you decide to pre-soak make sure to lengthen the usual development time by 5-10%, because the pre-soak will slow down development.

 

[2F/2F]

I have soaked and pre soaked...

I meant to say, "I have soaked and not soaked..."

 

[Denis R]

reminds me of cat in the hat

Yep, pink. It fades after a few minutes and the fix continues to work fine - by the time you get to the next roll, your fix will be quite clear again.

I never presoak it and don't think it would have any effect: after all, the dev does not wash any pink out so why would plain water?

plain water does remove the pink from t-max 400
since I had the hot shaker set up with warm water after mixing d-76, decided to wash out the pink on the experimental strip [ used for demonstrating processes and testing shutters ]

procedure: water level 2" below top - normal water line, medium speed approx. 1 cps temp. 40 - 30 c

most pink was gone after approx. 5 minutes

film after washing looks very much like delta 400

 

[Stephen Prunier]

I meant to say, "I have soaked and not soaked..."

Thanks for clearing that up for me. I was just about ready to soak my pre-soak