Should I buy a Konica C35? What should I look for?

[LowriderS10]

I seem to recall reading good things about this camera on here, but it was a long time ago...so...should I buy one?

A guy has been trying to sell one locally for a while, so I think I might be able to get it rather cheap.

Are they good cameras? Reliable? Good quality pictures?

I'm not sure which version he's selling, since he has two pictures (I'm guessing both from Google) on his ad, one for an automatic model, one for a non-auto.

According to the description, it has the Hexanon 38mm f2.8. Is that a good lens?

Do they have the old 1.35V powered light meters? Do the automatic models allow FULL manual control?

Anything else I should know about? And what's a good deal for one of these?

Thanks...
T

 

[MattKing]

The ones I used to sell had no manual over-ride (save for manually adjusting the ASA setting). They were nice and small. I can't remember which battery they used.

 

[Anscojohn]

IIRC, there were two C-35s. One with a built-in flash, one w/o. Both had the Hexanon lens, which I believe is a 4 element tessar formula. Both gave very sharp images. The C-35 w/o the flash is more pocketable. Some exposure control is possible with this camera by changing the ASA setting

 

[guitstik]

The Konica C35 takes a PX-675 battery but it is only for metering. On mine (V model) the viewfinder is just that, a viewfinder, you focus by guesstimate using the four settings from portrait to infinity. The one I have has been beat to hell and needs to have the light seals replaced but it still takes very sharp pics with the Hexanon 35/2,8 lens without a battery. I prefer the one without the built in flash as it is much more pocketable. Checkout http://www.mattdentonphoto.com/cameras/konica_c35.html and http://www.mattdentonphoto.com/cameras/konica_c35.html

 

[Jeff L]

My C35 is a rangefinder with the 38mm lens. Small, quick and sharp but no manual override. I really like it.

 

[LunoLuno]

Basically, all the C35s are fully automatic exposure cameras (There is only one exception, C35FD for Japanese domestic market, AKA Konica Auto S3).

1968 Konica C35 (rangefinder / w/o flashmatic)
1971 Konica C35 Automatic (aka C35 Flashmatic) (rangefinder / flashmatic)
1971 Konica C35V (aka C35 E&L) (zonefocus / w/o selftimer)
1973 Konica Auto S3 (aka C35FD) (rangefinder / shutter-priority auto / flashmatic / F1.8 lens)
1974 Konica C35EF (zonefocus / electronic flash)
1977 Konica C35AF (autofocus / electronic flash)
1980 Konica C35AF2 (autofocus / electronic flash)
1981 Konica C35EF3 (zonefocus / electronic flash)
1982 Konica C35EFJ (fixedfocus / electronic flash)

I have the 1971 version of the C35 (C35 Flashmatic). Although it doesn't have any manual override, there is an easy way to control the exposure without changing the ASA setting with the C35. It has the AE lock. By half-pressing the shutter, the exposure is locked until you fully-press the shutter. Once you get used to it, it becomes a very practical good small camera.

 

[Mike Wilde]

I have the C35 automatic. Light seals are shot (I use lots of electrical tape) I use an LR44 sized Wein cell, and just pull the sealing tape off to expose 1 hole and cut off the rest f the pull tab handle; they seem to last for months reliably with the lens cap on for me with only one hole exposed. I use a small ball of aluminum foil to keep the nominally too skinny battery pressed into the battery chamber.

No manual override, but I do fiddle the asa setting to adjust for the slightly different battery voltage prior to finding a deal on wein cells.

Nice sharp lens, small. I load mine with e-6 and carry it around with me in the bag I use to carry stuff between my home and my office, to caputre images as I come across them in everyday life.

No way to turn shutter trigger off unless you get in the habit of winding the film on just before you take the shot. I regrettably instinctively wind the film on just after I have exposed it, so I end up with some blank frames fron the shutter being bumped as it bounces around in my bag.

Flashmatic exposure works fine for direct flash, but you need to find a small flash with a relatively puny guide number. There is no capacity to bounce flash, or use the auto cell in the flash as far as I have been able to figure out.

 

[Red Robin]

No! Don't buy that camera( since you asked) , buy instead a Canon P(my favorite) or a Canon 7 ,another good camera. Remember however ,it's the lens that make the difference IMHO. Happy hunting.

 

[elekm]

My second camera was the Konica C35 Automatic. Nice little camera. Very good optically.

Fully automatic with a decent lens. I shot a lot of film with it.

These days, you can use a hearing-aid 675 battery, which will power the meter for about six months or so. More, if you keep the lens cap on (if you have the lens cap) or in the case (if you have the soft case).

You can pretty much expect to need to replace the light seals, which is a very messy job with this camera. Don't let ANY of those gooey bits fall into the shutter, or you'll really have a problem.

The viewfinder and rangefinder might need to be cleaned and adjusted. Much depends on how the camera was treated in the past. There are enough of these on the used market that you shouldn't have to buy any one's beat up crap. Buy only a camera that is in good condition and doesn't have any dents, dings or gouges.

That's my thoughts on this.

I bought another of these about four years ago. It's still a very nice camera.