Shot my first roll with the 503CXi - now what?

copake_ham · Oct 14, 2006

So with great fear and trepidation this 35mm'er finally got up the courage to load the "new" Hassey with film and shoot out a roll.

I used Fuji Pro 160. Yes, color stuff - sorry, old habits die hard - but it was the last weekend up here for Autumn colors.

So now, when I bring it in to be developed, what do I ask for?

Do they know what size prints to make w/o my specifying?

You see, with 35mm I often just get "develop-only" and do a scan. But I cannot scan 120 with my current Nikon scanner. And when I do ask for prints - I just take the "usual".

Please advise so I don't look like a totally idiotic "newbie" when I bring in this roll of (probably over/under exposed) film in on Monday morning!

Michel Hardy-Vallée · Oct 14, 2006

Depends whether your lab is run by idiots or not When I work with square format, I always ask for them to put the whole frame inside the rectangle of my choice (e.g. if I ask for 4x6, I would end up with a 4x4 picture and a white border. That's what croppers are for).

BrianShaw · Oct 14, 2006

Take the film to a pro lab. They will process and print proofs 5x5. The prints are usually 65 to 100 cents each; processing about 250 cents or so. Some labs will print 4x4. Tell them EXACTLY what you want... and they will do it. I've only once had a lab crop my frames to 4x6 when I specifically requested "full frame proofs"... it was the last time I used that lab.

BrianShaw · Oct 14, 2006

p.s. Congrats on using your Hassy for the first time. It was quite fun, wasn't it? What did you shoot??

copake_ham · Oct 14, 2006

BrianShaw said:
Take the film to a pro lab. They will process and print proofs 5x5. The prints are usually 65 to 100 cents each; processing about 250 cents or so. Some labs will print 4x4. I've only once had a lab crop my frames to 4x6 when I specifically requested "full frame proofs"... it was the last time I used that lab.

Hi Brian,

Got the CD.

Thanks - snail mail is actually pretty quick.

The folks I go to are pretty saavy - guess I'll ask them what to do. I figure I probably "blew" this roll just getting used to all the settings etc.

First time with anything is always a bit of a "challenge" - reminds me of being a teenager and trying to figure out how to remove a clasp while...OOPS - better stop here, new police powers and all....

c6h6o3 · Oct 15, 2006

copake_ham said:
Hi Brian,

Got the CD.

Thanks - snail mail is actually pretty quick.

The folks I go to are pretty saavy - guess I'll ask them what to do. I figure I probably "blew" this roll just getting used to all the settings etc.

First time with anything is always a bit of a "challenge" - reminds me of being a teenager and trying to figure out how to remove a clasp while...OOPS - better stop here, new police powers and all....

You'll love the 503Cxi. It doesn't have the retracting mirror, but in all other respects is identical to the 503CW. It has through the lens flash metering (you'll have to get a module for your flash) and will take the CW winder if you decide to add one.

I've had mine for ten years now and it's still functioning perfectly after having received some pretty outrageous abuse.

BrianShaw · Oct 15, 2006

copake_ham said:
The folks I go to are pretty saavy - guess I'll ask them what to do.

That's my definition of "pro lab." I use two different labs: one is a camera shop that services a local university; the other is a 'wedding' lab that has gone mostly digital. Both do a great job with slightly different style of service. Both do proc + 5x5 proof for 120. If specially requested the camera store will do 4x4 proof. All of this in 2 hour service. Negs come back sleeved in a rolled-up strip, all neatly packaged in a cardboard box.

The wedding lab takes FOREVER... two to three weeks (due to the low number of wedding photgs shooting film, they say). The proofs are 5x5 and are exceptional quality. They package each neg separately in plastic pouch that is imprinted with the roll number, neg number, and exposure/printing data. (likewise, the proofs are marked with roll number, neg number, and exposure/printing data... as well as copyright notice). The separate neg packaging makes storage and filing very convenient. In many ways I like this better than rolled or sleeved negs, but the processing wait-time makes me bite my nails too much. One time my courier (wife) went by their shop three days in a row only to hear the same story -- they didn't have enough film to justify a processing run. The owner then mentioned that he lived only a few streets aways from us so now he hand-delivers my processed order. Very convenient!

The local run-of-the-mill camera stores provided anything from mediocre to lousy 120 service. The mediocre one processed in 24 hours. Good negs, but consistently dirty proofs. The lousy one... well, they did l-o-u-s-y 120 work and worse B&W. I like that shop for equipment and film buys, but that's about all.

Re: what you shot and how you may have "blew" the film... I doubt it. For one thing, there is learning value in all errors (so I've heard ). Like everything new there is a learning curve. But you know the basics so it's mostly a matter of "getting into the (slower) flow". If you didn't do it this time, just wait until you put that camera on a tripod. It very well may take your breath away.

Bromo33333 · Oct 15, 2006

copake_ham said:
So with great fear and trepidation this 35mm'er finally got up the courage to load the "new" Hassey with film and shoot out a roll.

I used Fuji Pro 160. Yes, color stuff - sorry, old habits die hard - but it was the last weekend up here for Autumn colors.

So now, when I bring it in to be developed, what do I ask for?

Do they know what size prints to make w/o my specifying?

You see, with 35mm I often just get "develop-only" and do a scan. But I cannot scan 120 with my current Nikon scanner. And when I do ask for prints - I just take the "usual".

Please advise so I don't look like a totally idiotic "newbie" when I bring in this roll of (probably over/under exposed) film in on Monday morning!

Proof prints or a contact sheet are good ways to go - it depends upon the lab. If you go to e pro lab with a lot of streamlined operations (becoming more rare, but not out of the question) - proof prints are the way to go and likely cheaper. Otherwise to a contact sheet (6x6 is large enough to see if you got it right) - but be sure that it is a photogrpahic contact sheet and not a D&^*%*L one as those can be pretty bad.

Good luck and let us know how it comes out!

You could also have them scan the negative - though that could get expensive unless it is one of those streamlined operations.

Claire Senft · Oct 24, 2006

I remember talking to attorneys from NYC, Copake and Tuscon. They always advised me to seek advice, before not after, doing things. But what would a lawyer know?

Bromo33333 · Oct 24, 2006

Claire Senft said:
I remember talking to attorneys from NYC, Copake and Tuscon. They always advised me to seek advice, before not after, doing things. But what would a lawyer know?

Isn't the old saying "Ask for forgiveness, but not permission?" Hmmm, maybe this advice is what keeps the courts busy and lawyers making billable hours? I'll take your advice rather then mine!

André E.C. · Oct 24, 2006

"Shot my first roll with the 503CXi - now what?"

Shoot the second, the third and so on...!

Have fun!

Cheers

André

MattKing · Oct 25, 2006

Claire Senft said:
I remember talking to attorneys from NYC, Copake and Tuscon. They always advised me to seek advice, before not after, doing things. But what would a lawyer know?

Claire:

You wouldn't believe how many times I have thought to myself: "If only he/she had asked me first!!!".

On at least one occasion, I have had a client send me a letter saying: "You gave me good advice. I didn't follow it. I now regret it greatly. I still thank you for your help."

It made my day, even if I did wish that my client hadn't got herself into the trouble in the first place!

Matt

copake_ham · Oct 25, 2006

Claire Senft said:
I remember talking to attorneys from NYC, Copake and Tuscon. They always advised me to seek advice, before not after, doing things. But what would a lawyer know?

Exactly! Which is why I asked for advice on processing BEFORE bringing it in to the shop!

BrianShaw · Oct 26, 2006

copake_ham said:
Exactly! Which is why I asked for advice on processing BEFORE bringing it in to the shop!

So... what were the results???

copake_ham · Oct 26, 2006

BrianShaw said:
So... what were the results???

Aha! Glad you asked, Brian.

I don't know yet!

The shop I brought them too (on 10/16) sent them to the Great Yellow Father for processing (even though the Green Giant of the East had made the film).

It's been 10 days - still no show! Arrghh!

They did tell me "up to 2 weeks" but I thought they were kidding. Little did I know.....

Stay tuned.

Bromo33333 · Oct 26, 2006

copake_ham said:
Aha! Glad you asked, Brian.

I don't know yet!

The shop I brought them too (on 10/16) sent them to the Great Yellow Father for processing (even though the Green Giant of the East had made the film).

It's been 10 days - still no show! Arrghh!

They did tell me "up to 2 weeks" but I thought they were kidding. Little did I know.....

Stay tuned.

You will ask, they will draw their breath sharply between their teeth, mention something about how unstable F*j* film is, and difficult to develop and delay yet another week!

Here in Kodak-land you would just get lynched.

kb244 · Oct 27, 2006

The labs here can have them in 24-48 hours if its E6 or C41, if its black and white it can take upto a week depending on who does it. If it came into the store and is 120, then its possible to have it done overnight. The only reason something would take 2 weeks or more, is if they are sending the film outside of the state to some bulk processing lab.

BrianShaw · Oct 27, 2006

kb244 said:
The labs here can have them in 24-48 hours if its E6 or C41, if its black and white it can take upto a week depending on who does it. If it came into the store and is 120, then its possible to have it done overnight. The only reason something would take 2 weeks or more, is if they are sending the film outside of the state to some bulk processing lab.

Ha. If I go to the right lab I can get 120 E-6 in 2 hours and C-41 or B&W in 3 hours. If I go to another lab I can get 120 C-41 overnight, but E-6 in 2 or 3 days (and no B&W at all). If I go to my favorite lab (sarcastically speaking), 120 C-41 in 2 or 3 weeks and no E-6 or B&W. I'll bet NYC has plenty of labs that have various turnaround times also -- some much better than others.

copake_ham · Oct 27, 2006

Well I got the film back and it was a disaster. No images, frames or anything. Thinking at the shop is that the camera has a light leak - but I'm not sure if that's the case.

They asked me to bring it in for a tech to look at. I'll do that (after all this was an "eBay special"). But, if I have time (and the weatherman cooperates) I will shoot a test roll this weekend and take it a different place.

Here's what I did to shoot. Loaded the film as per the Hassey manual instructions. Set the shutter speed and aperture on the lens (the day I shot was a Sunny/16). Wound the shutter crank. Removed the dark slide and shot.

Sometimes I replaced the dark slide before advancing the film - sometimes not.

After roll was done, I fully wound out the film onto the take-up spool so the paper was all I saw when I removed it.

I cannot think of what I did wrong such that I'm willing to explore the possibility of a light leak - but if I can do a test roll, the other shop can turn the film around in a day or two so I can be certain before I agree to incur a probably costly repair expense.

jonathanbennett120 · Oct 27, 2006

What a drag. No frames even? Maybe you spooled the film outbackward so the film wasn't facing the right way and rolled it up inverted somehow? I mean, that would be hard to do, but it would be the easiest thing to "fix". When you took out your finished roll, there must have been film markings saying "exposed" fold this flap under, etc. and maybe a sticky strip to keep the roll spoolled up?

Sorry to explore this obvious angle, but otherwise I can't image what would cause you to have a BLANK roll. A light leak of any kind would at least give you some sort of square frames on the film. I shoot with a Rollei and a Yashica, so I can't help you out, but good luck figuring out the troubles.

kb244 · Oct 27, 2006

BrianShaw said:
Ha. If I go to the right lab I can get 120 E-6 in 2 hours and C-41 or B&W in 3 hours. If I go to another lab I can get 120 C-41 overnight, but E-6 in 2 or 3 days (and no B&W at all). If I go to my favorite lab (sarcastically speaking), 120 C-41 in 2 or 3 weeks and no E-6 or B&W. I'll bet NYC has plenty of labs that have various turnaround times also -- some much better than others.

Hrm ya, allied in my area I think switched their E6 from 3 hours to 24 hours, and they used to do black and white in 24-48, but i think its longer now.

I think the various turn around times are probally how much money the first receiver of the roll wishes to make.

kb244 · Oct 27, 2006

copake_ham said:
Well I got the film back and it was a disaster. No images, frames or anything. Thinking at the shop is that the camera has a light leak - but I'm not sure if that's the case.

They asked me to bring it in for a tech to look at. I'll do that (after all this was an "eBay special"). But, if I have time (and the weatherman cooperates) I will shoot a test roll this weekend and take it a different place.

Here's what I did to shoot. Loaded the film as per the Hassey manual instructions. Set the shutter speed and aperture on the lens (the day I shot was a Sunny/16). Wound the shutter crank. Removed the dark slide and shot.

Sometimes I replaced the dark slide before advancing the film - sometimes not.

After roll was done, I fully wound out the film onto the take-up spool so the paper was all I saw when I removed it.

I cannot think of what I did wrong such that I'm willing to explore the possibility of a light leak - but if I can do a test roll, the other shop can turn the film around in a day or two so I can be certain before I agree to incur a probably costly repair expense.

Did you make sure to slip the film under the little metal tab on the film back when loading? Very doubtful its a light leak if nothing was seen at all, you'd have bands, fogging, patterns, maybe some impression of an image, etc. You using a Typical A12 back?

Any possibilities you can take a 'picture' of the strip for further inspection? Doesnt have to be a scan or anything, just a general shot of the way it looks.

BrianShaw · Oct 27, 2006

jonathanbennett120 said:
What a drag. No frames even? Maybe you spooled the film outbackward so the film wasn't facing the right way

Oh, George... I'm so sorry to hear this. What jonathanbennett suggests (above) is what came to my mind first. Are the negs clear (orange) or black. A light leak would have fully exposed or "smeared" the neg. No exposure at all... well, would leave the neg clear.

Think hard about how you loaded the back. The correct way "feels" backward.

Have you previously checked the mechanism to make sure that the shutter fires correctly and the barn-doors open/close?

sbelyaev · Oct 27, 2006

Get some 120 color film mailers A& I from aandi.com or B&H.
It is a good lab.

kb244 · Oct 27, 2006

sbelyaev said:
Get some 120 color film mailers A& I from aandi.com or B&H.
It is a good lab.

Oooor get some cheap B&W film and develop yourself to test for camera inconsistancy. (like shutter not actually opening.)

Shot my first roll with the 503CXi - now what?

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