Thank you; had a look at that jiffy chart, very complicated (I'm not the brightest person on the planet) and gonna take a bit of studying to make head or tail of it.For me this was very helpfull - an old but reliable tool.
Night Exposures in a Jiffy:
http://f-sunny.com/night-exposures-in-a-jiffy/
http://www.stacken.kth.se/~maxz/files/jiffy.pdf
The white paper link on that site just comes up as 404 not foundCheck it the white paper on this site. Google his name for more...
http://home.earthlink.net/~kitathome/LunarLight/index.html
Thank you again, and you've certainly no need to apologiseDang. I knew I should have checked it first. Old site. This guy is an amazing combination of engineer and artist. His white paper was really great. Sorry.
For me this was very helpfull - an old but reliable tool.
Night Exposures in a Jiffy:
http://f-sunny.com/night-exposures-in-a-jiffy/
http://www.stacken.kth.se/~maxz/files/jiffy.pdf
For me this was very helpfull - an old but reliable tool.
Night Exposures in a Jiffy:
http://f-sunny.com/night-exposures-in-a-jiffy/
http://www.stacken.kth.se/~maxz/files/jiffy.pdf
The white paper link on that site just comes up as 404 not found
Yeah, I also got the site ok, it was just the white paper link on that site that didn't work.Try again! I just clicked the link and the site came up no problem.
Terry S
Thank you, that's what I was looking for, someone's real life settingsIf you have a SLR with TTL metering off the film, such as the Pentax LX among a few others, your problem is "solved." Reciprocity failure is still a concern, so bracketing is a good idea. I've shot full moonlit shots with my LX successfully, the effect on C 41 film is...strange. Since the LX monitors exposure in real time a passing cloud is of no concern. IRRC my exposure at f4 on ASA 100 film was several minutes; tripod is essential. BTW if you choose to shoot the full moon itself, it is a sunlit object, so the f11 or f16 with "1/the film speed" shutter speed should work pretty well.
I just visited Kit Courter's site, it would seem to give about all you'd need to get started.
Thanks Sirius. Both easy to understand and rememberThe Moon receives the same light that we do during the day, but its albedo reflects somewhat less than half the light it receives. Therefore instead of Sunny 16 it is more like f/11 or f/8.
The Moon receives the same light that we do during the day, but its albedo reflects somewhat less than half the light it receives. Therefore instead of Sunny 16 it is more like f/11 or f/8.
But 'Mooney 11' describes what to use when the subject is the SURFACE OF THE MOON! But OP wants to have a suggestion of the amount of light falling on a SUBJECT ON EARTH when illuminated by the full moon, " The subject matter would be unlit granite buildings and standing stones."!
https://mkaz.com/2004/07/05/exposures-for-moonlight-photography/
OP, see the section "Subject in Moonlight -- Static Chart" for starters. It says ISO 100, f/8 8 min.
Turn that starter setting into ISO 400 to get f/8 2min, or f/4 30sec.
Brilliant, thank you for that, a good ball park figure to be going on with and bracket around. Much appreciated.But 'Mooney 11' describes what to use when the subject is the SURFACE OF THE MOON! But OP wants to have a suggestion of the amount of light falling on a SUBJECT ON EARTH when illuminated by the full moon, " The subject matter would be unlit granite buildings and standing stones."!
https://mkaz.com/2004/07/05/exposures-for-moonlight-photography/
OP, see the section "Subject in Moonlight -- Static Chart" for starters. It says ISO 100, f/8 8 min.
Turn that starter setting into ISO 400 to get f/8 2min, or f/4 30sec.
But 'Mooney 11' describes what to use when the subject is the SURFACE OF THE MOON!
https://mkaz.com/2004/07/05/exposures-for-moonlight-photography/
OP, see the section "Subject in Moonlight -- Static Chart" for starters. It says ISO 100, f/8 8 min.
Turn that starter setting into ISO 400 to get f/8 2min, or f/4 30sec.
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