SFX Filter

I have a roll of SFX Ib'e had it about a year, but it's been in the fridge and Freezer most of that time.

I have a red B&W contrast filter of course but will I get any effect at all with that? What filter to I need to get a serious effect?

Haven't shot much SFX, would think a red filter even a dark red filter would not give much of an IR look if any at all. I think something like a Hoya 720 IR filter would be required to get an IR look...

According to Ilford, SFX is a pseudo-near IR film that yields dramatic results with a normal red filter.

I get pretty dramatic results with Ilfords own SFX filter. I got a couple of SFX images in the gallery.

I use a Hoya R72 filter with this film. It is nearly black. I get something very close to true IR results. There are some examples in my gallery.

Also according to Ilford their film is the best and is best used with their developers. I havent personally used SFX, but make sure you check the spectral sensitivty of the film and the transmission of the filter you choose, if they overlap in a falloff area of sensitivity your going to have quite a factor on your hands.

I like this film quite a bit, especially in 120 format. I would highly recommend an R72 or Ilford SFX filter. You will hear lots of opinions on this, but I meter at ISO 6 and get quite consistent results.

Cheers,

Toffle said:

I like this film quite a bit, especially in 120 format. I would highly recommend an R72 or Ilford SFX filter. You will hear lots of opinions on this, but I meter at ISO 6 and get quite consistent results.

Cheers,

Click to expand...

good catch. I meter at ISO 4 or 6. Rodinal 1:50, sometimes 1:100

Dear ajuk,

I like SFX with a B+W 91 Deep Red Filter (sort of an "IR lite" effect). Through the lens meter at 200 and bracket. Very hand holdable.

Follow the data sheet and you'll be fine.

Neal Wydra

I shoot with a Red 25 at EI(ISO) 40 with SFX. I DO NOT want the IR effect so this has been working well for me. I develop in HC-110h for I think 14 minutes; if you care, email me and I'll check my times.

I have some on my Flickr site, again if you care; email me.

Carter john said:

I shoot with a Red 25 at EI(ISO) 40 with SFX. I DO NOT want the IR effect so this has been working well for me. I develop in HC-110h for I think 14 minutes; if you care, email me and I'll check my times.

I have some on my Flickr site, again if you care; email me.

Click to expand...

I was wondering what effect you get compared with the same red filter on normal pan film.

I used SFX once without a filter and it looked exactly like any other film of similar speed.

Nikanon said:

Also according to Ilford their film is the best and is best used with their developers.

Click to expand...

:rolleyes:

Did they really say that? If they did, why would you repeat such garbage? Both Ilford and Kodak have at least two developers that I know of that are identical in use (D-76/ID-11 and HC-110/Ilfotec HC), not to mention the ones that are very similar. There are other companies that make developers as well, plus about a billion different formulas you can make yourself. They will all work poorly or well, depending on individual criteria and the amount of time and effort one puts in to testing them.

john_s said:

I used SFX once without a filter and it looked exactly like any other film of similar speed.

Click to expand...

That is normal with all films of these kinds.

All traffic surveillance and aerial films (and their relabeled look-alikes) have just a little IR sensitivity, and they require strong IR filters if you want an IR effect at all. All examples I saw show that unmistakably. Using such a dense IR filter reduces their practical ISO to extremely low numbers because of their usual plunge in sensitivity beyond 700nm. You can only get a visible wood effect with these films on a very sunny day. And you need a tripod, not only because of the low sensitivity but also because an SLR finder will be totally dark with such a filter.

The only film that shows a wood effect with a dark red filter is the Efke 820. ISO drops from the official 100 to something like 15 or so, which means that you can manage to shoot without a tripod in many cases. A Kodak HIE would have shown a strong wood effect with such a dark red filter, but there is no film today that does that trick.

The Efke's ISO drops to 3-6 with a real IR filter. On a sunny day I shot with that f2.8 and 1/60, and it worked fine. I pushed the film about one f-stop using XTol 1:1 for 18 minutes at 20°. And I used a rangefinder camera to see what I shoot.

Some examples with different filters:

http://theplasticlandscape.com/articles/efke_ir820_filter_test.htm

You need a mild IR like hoya 72 or B+W 092 which is what I use. If you hold the 092 up to your eye, you can barely see thru it. Even a deep red 029 is insufficient

I use a R72 filter, This has a 4 stop filter factor.

This means to me rate at ASA 200, meter at that, then open up 4 stops (Effective speed 12.5) before plopping the filter on

I find on a sunny day that handheld is fine.
Easiest way of shooting SFX is using a non SLR camera.
The old style 35mm with separate viewfinder is easy, a Twin lens reflex for 120 is even easier if you like shooting MF.

Shooting with a SLR is possible. I've even done action shots of birds of prey like this on an old Praktica. I just sighted over the top of the camera.

Without a filter, on an overcast day the film will look like normal B&W. On a really hot day, it can give some slightly odd effects. I've shot pictures of a castle where the railings were painted black, and therefore got quite warm. Even without the filter they printed out like neon strip lights.

Also portrait shots can look a little washed out, as it gives surprisingly ghostly white effects on caucasian skin without a filter.
One shot of my daughter for instance caused much consternation...
"Daaaad you made me look like a *Ahem* Goth" Charming child! I blame the parents
For portraits of afro-caribbean skin the results can start to edge towards an albino effect (Especially with the filter)