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Sepia Toning Problem

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eddie

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I was doing some printing/toning today, and came upon a problem I've never had before. I used my usual technique/chemistry/paper, but when I toned them, the borders toned too. Obviously, I don't want this to happen. Any ideas?
Thanks
 
You can cover any parts of the photo you DON'T want to tone with rubber cement. It can be a bit messy and may give irregular results (sloppy borders) but it works.
 
How old was your fixer? Seems like when my fixer was not fresh this happened to me, but it has been a while since I have done any sliver work (it's mostly pt/pd now). The other possiblity might be how well the print was washed. Sorry not to be more help, did your workflow change this time in any way - different paper, developer, stop bath, toner?

Maybe give some more information about your process and I bet someone here will have an anser for you.

Good luck.
 
sounds like your fix was exhausted.
 
Yes, if your fixer is exhausted, there will be content in the emulsion outside of the image area that the toner will want to alter. The best method for fixing paper, in my opinion, is to use a double fixing bath. One fresh bath and one from last printing session. The 'old' fixer from last session becomes your first fixing bath, and the new fresh becomes your second. Then at the end of your printing session, you can either discard the first bath (now used twice) or you can use it for film (I do this because I use film and paper fix at the same dilution, Ilford Hypam at 1+4).
With film it's easy to test, by checking how quickly it clears a film strip. With paper you can't see this, until you try to tone it, or wait a couple of weeks and watch the print turn yellow. Fixer can become expensive this way.

To make it less expensive, you can use regular fixer as your first bath, and hypo check it all the time, and use a plain hypo second fixer bath. As a first bath, plain hypo won't last long. But as a second bath, it will last for quite a bit.

- Thomas
 
Thanks for the replies. I started with fresh fixer, so I don't think that's the problem. I will mix a new batch tomorrow, and give it another try.
Washing was my normal routine, too. 10 minute first wash, 5 minutes Perma-Wash, 20-30 minute wash in an archival washer. Then transferred all of the prints to a water holding bath before starting the toning process.
 
I would check your paper and your safelight. Sounds to me like paper fog.
 
Looking closely at the prints I didn't tone, there is a slight fog. Would benzotriazol fix it, and would it have any effect on toning after printing?
 
Benzo in the dev should help, also try pulling out of the dev earlier if the paper is starting to turn on you. Sometimes an overexposure and early pull will help fogged papers, and if it is still dark or foggy, a slight ferri bath will do wonders!
 
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