sanking said:A couple of books on making color separations for color assembly processes.
Pilkington, W. J. Color Separation Negatives. London, 1952.
Miles, Southworth. Color Separation Techniques. New York: Graphic Arts Publications, 1979.
See also, Mindy Beede, Dye Transfer Made Easy, Amphoto Books, 1981, for some practical ways of going about this without a lot of expensive sensitometry equipment.
And Kodak Q-7A booklet for the graphic arts. Maybe out of print but you can perhaps find a used copy somewhere.
Sandy
df cardwell said:san cristobal
what are you setting out to do with a color sep neg ???
d
Donald Miller said:I don't understand what you are attempting to do. Is it just to reduce the density range of your color negative?
ciocc said:I'm a moron when it comes to this stuff. I need to make separation negatives from a transparency. I read that transparencies have a long density range.
The book said that reducing the development time of the separation negatives will reduce the saturation of the colors. Supposedly a mask will lower the density range of the transparency, but the color saturation won't be reduced. I don't understand all this stuff, but I'm going to read one of the books that Sandy recommened. As I posted earlier, maybe a lab can do it all for me.
Eric.
ciocc said:I'm a moron when it comes to this stuff. I need to make separation negatives from a transparency. I read that transparencies have a long density range.
The book said that reducing the development time of the separation negatives will reduce the saturation of the colors. Supposedly a mask will lower the density range of the transparency, but the color saturation won't be reduced. I don't understand all this stuff, but I'm going to read one of the books that Sandy recommened. As I posted earlier, maybe a lab can do it all for me.
Eric.
Donald Miller said:I used to mask transparencies for printing on Cibachrome...I used black and white negative film to produce a low density and unsharp mask that was then sandwiched with the transparency and printed together. The effect of the negative is to reduce the density range of the positive (transparency).
The other way of doing this used to be to produce an internegative of the color transparency and this also had the desired effect.
The mask is something that should be fairly easy to do...it is not rocket science...the internegative requires a lab, in my opinion.
sanking said:You don't need to make a mask. You just need to learn to balance the exposures frm your transparency to B&W film through the Red, Green and Blue filters to give an identical Dmin, and then develop the negatives to the same contrast. This will take a bit of time to balance, but to make color prints with carbon you must do so.
My immediate advice would be to make a transparency using your favorite film and put a large gray scale in the picture, or put it close to the camera. this will be of immeasurable help later when you try to match density and contrast. Once you get this balanced, exposure and develoment will be almost identical for other trnasparencies.
Sandy
ciocc said:To be honest, I'm confused. What you say is what I originally understood I needed to do. One of the books started talking about loosing color saturation, and it said a mask was necessary. You've always given me good advice, so I'll do as you recommend. I have a transparency that my heart is set on printing. I was hoping that I can use it, rather than make another one.
Eric.
ciocc said:One of my books talks about masking as you describe. It sounds fairly easy. My problem with all of this is that I'm following instructions in books, but I have no clue why it needs to be done, why it works, etc. It's unpleasant not having an understanding why you do what the book tells you to do. I'm learning as I go along. Fortunately it all works as advertised.
Photo Engineer said:We need more information on the printing process.
Unless you are doing something like dye transfer (magazine color prints involve a dye transfer process), there is usually no need for separations or masking. Color negatives have the mask built in.
PE
sanking said:Eric,
Have you considered making some in-camera separations? These are relartively easy to do, and if you choose the right subject (one that does not move for about a minute or so while you make the three exposures) the results can be outstanding. Most of the better three-color carbons I have made were made witih in-camera separations. You can use virtually any panchromatic film for this but those that have very straight line curves work best as they avoid contrast cross-overs.
Sandy
sanking said:The printing process is three color carbon. And we don't need masking in making the separations for three-color carbon, rather we try to balance the density and contrast of the B&W separations through Red, Green and Blue filters.
Sandy
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