It will not hurt film, nor will it change the contrast that much, to let it sit for a little while once it has gone through a healthy chunk of its development time. You can make up for the standing by agitating later. When I do multiple tanks at once, I wait till about halfway through the first tank's development time, then I stop the timer for the first tank at one of the 30 second marks, and I get the second tank going. When the second tank's timer hits a 0 second mark, I flick the first tank's timer back on. I arrange it so that I agitate each tank once a minute, but since the tanks are staggered by 30 seconds, the agitations do not overlap, so I am not doing a juggling act. The second tank then sits with its timer off while I dump the developer from the first tank, stop the film, and then fill the tank with water. Finally, I turn the second timer back on and go back to agitating the second tank. I have three Gra-lab timers. They are terribly cheap on the used market, and provide all you need in a processing timer, plus a few conveniences that a wall clock does not provide. (I also use them for printing, though there are much better timer options for that.)
I have not done any more than two tanks this way, but doing 8 rolls of 35mm at a time is really not a bad rate of production. If you really need to do more, you can double roll the films back to back on the reels, so you are doing 16 rolls at a time (or 8 with 120). Just make sure that you are using plenty of developer. I would only do this with undiluted D-76, for instance, not 1:1. You can also use 220 reels to develop two rolls of 120 end to end. I have stainless 220 reels, and I tape the two rolls of 120 end to end when I do this.
I do not have any specific minimal agitation techniques for Neopan 400 to share, but I do know that letting it sit for a few minutes while you do something else will not hurt it unless you do it near the beginning of the development time.