Sekonic L-358 advice?

kr236rk · Mar 22, 2016

Hi,

I shoot 16mm film and have been using a Gossen 6 meter because my Bolex H-16 camera has no light meter. Because of the tricky film speed I use (approx 16fps) someone said using the Sekonic would be a far easier way to key the frame speed into a meter and get an aperture reading out (LED).

So, I managed to set my film speed (asa25) into the Sekonic but that's as far as I got. Is there anyone who uses the 358 on this forum please?

What I can't do is get into the cine 'fps' section of the Sekonic. I know there is one, it says so in the manual.

Apparently I can also use a shutter speed 's' setting - a reading of 1/45 for my camera - but I can't get into the 's' range either, the Sekonic just bounces back into a default 'T' mode whatever I do.

Help appreciated!

Many thanks,

Ric

wiltw · Mar 23, 2016

User manuals are handy, and are available on line...

markbarendt · Mar 23, 2016

On my 358 when in the right mode the 2 icons shown in the top drawing are outlined, so hold the mode button and turn the wheel until that's true then release.

Now turn the dial counter clockwise until T goes away and you see f/s instead.

kr236rk · Mar 23, 2016

Many thanks Wiltw & Mark,

After a day of head scratching & internet surfing I found the cause of my bewilderment on another forum post - there is a digital lock on the jog wheel, and mine was on, which prevented me doing anything except seeing a very narrow range of default settings. I can now use the Sekonic to find my aperture settings on the H-16

The lock is disengaged by pressing Mode & ISO1 buttons together.

Ric

guangong · Mar 23, 2016

I avoid all of this complication with my Arriflex by simply using a sekonic selenium meter. When I want complications I use video.

kr236rk · Mar 23, 2016

guangong said:
I avoid all of this complication with my Arriflex by simply using a sekonic selenium meter. When I want complications I use video.

Thanks. I use a Gossen 6 but my fps is nigh impossible to read from the centre of the dial where it occurs, or rather doesn't occur, as a non-existent dot between two unnumbered specks somewhere between 9 to 18fps. That's why I went for the digital read-out. It isn't perfect but between the two meters I ought to coax some sense out of light readings for my Bolex?

Do you use ambient or reflected meter readings for your Arriflex please? I am mostly interested in landscape filming as opposed to filming in a studio situation.

kr236rk · Jul 13, 2016

Hi,

Still in the dark - meter now unlocked but however many times I turn the jog wheel f/s does not appear, I get an 'm' or an 's' but no f/s. I also notice that the fraction 1/8000 also does not appear which makes me think the Sekonic is on the wrong setting - might the switch settings in the back of the unit have something to do with this please?

Following the manual to the crossed T and the full stop. No progress

Help appreciated

Thanks,

Ric

markbarendt · Jul 14, 2016

Ok when you see "m" it's because you have turned the wheel clockwise enough.

Starting there if you turn the wheel anti-clockwise a bit "s" shows instead, "s" actually stands for "second" as in 1 second, 2 seconds...

As you continue anti-clockwise the "s" disappears. At this point the times are fractions of a second. first up is 2 which means 1/2 second then 3 for 1/3 all the way to 8000 for 1/8000 then it drops to 200 then 400 then "f/s" and "2,3,4,6,8,12..."

frank · Jul 14, 2016

Once you get it set up for how you want to use it, it's a good meter. Just a bit of weirdness to get it there.

gone · Jul 14, 2016

All of which is why I had to sell mine and go to an analog meter w/ a swinging needle. I can read one of those so much faster, as well as see all of the available speed/aperture combinations at a glance instead of having to scroll through a digital display on a tiny screen. It is an accurate meter for sure though. Found this Quick Usage deal here for you below.

http://ilovephotography.com/L358.html

kr236rk · Jul 14, 2016

markbarendt said:
Ok when you see "m" it's because you have turned the wheel clockwise enough.

Starting there if you turn the wheel anti-clockwise a bit "s" shows instead, "s" actually stands for "second" as in 1 second, 2 seconds...

As you continue anti-clockwise the "s" disappears. At this point the times are fractions of a second. first up is 2 which means 1/2 second then 3 for 1/3 all the way to 8000 for 1/8000 then it drops to 200 then 400 then "f/s" and "2,3,4,6,8,12..."

Thanks but negative. When I spin the wheel anti-clockwise the numbers go up to 400 then stop, after that the dial keeps turning but the numbers stay at 400 on the led display. Baffled.

OH! Just did it. The flash icon was illuminated so I pressed the Mode button and span the wheel till the daylight icon was selected. Then I could cycle back to f/s

I can tell you that the Sekonic read off bears no relation whatsoever to my Gossen 6. Sekonic says Aperture f-stop 2, Gossen says f-stop 16, I think light meters are where I and digital technology part company :-o

markbarendt · Jul 14, 2016

Ahhhh... Yes, one must follow all the steps when using any digital tool.

The L358 has been for me the most accurate meter by far that I've ever owned. If I take a photo based on it's reading that exposure works every time, the only exceptions have been fully my fault.

Typically the error is digital, and hiding in plane sight, like using the wrong ISO setting after switching films or when comparing to other meters.

kr236rk · Jul 15, 2016

The Sekonic will not give any accurate reading for the H16, apparently this meter cannot cope with the 1958 Bolex shutter angle, which is narrower than what is taken for granted by the time digital meters were introduced. I cannot formally re-set the Sekonic for the Bolex . I might try to compromise by parallel setting the Sekonic by Gossen 6 meter reading values. The Gossen always gives me practical aperture settings for the H16 even if they are difficult to read for precision.

Sekonic L-358 advice?

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