Sekonic Flashmate L-308S: on the fritz?

Ken Bingham

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So my up-until-now reliable Sekonic L-308S is suddenly showing E.u regardless of the exposure I'm trying to read. For instance, yesterday afternoon in full (and beautiful) sunlight with an ISO of 100 and a shutter speed of 1/125, the meter showed flashing E.u when I pressed the exposure button. Clearly something is amiss. I tried changing batteries, checking on-line docs, and so on, but found no clue explaining why E.u is showing up in an otherwise straightforward situation. The documentation says E.u means the meter can't produce a reliable result in a given situation and further recommends changing one of the settings -- but there's no difference whether I try changing the ISO or the shutter speed. Is the sensor fried, maybe? Is it even possible to fry the sensor in one of these? Thanks in advance for input.
 
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Ken Bingham

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I checked the mode pretty carefully, cycling through them and watching the indicators carefully. If there's debris under the dome (the "lumisphere," I think the docs call it) I can't see it. I did remember after posting that I was using the meter two weeks ago with a Yongnuo YN560-III speed light (connecting it through the PC port with a cable), but I've done that plenty of times without anything going south. I cleaned the exterior of the lumisphere and the meter window (uncertain of my terminology here). Thanks for the ideas, though. Give me a minute and I'll rummage through my stuff and set up a Yongnuo speed light and give it a go with the PC cable. I'll report back, natch.
 
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Ken Bingham

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Well, when I connected the speed light to the meter with a PC cable, the flash didn't fire when I pressed the test button. When I tried the "manual" flash setting (without the cable) the F stop did show 0, though, instead of E.u. I guess the thing has reached the end of its useful life. An expensive death . . . Thanks again for the suggestions, @runswithsizzers.
 

Bill Burk

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Before you toss it look at getting it repaired. I once had a sensor cable unplug inside my L-758-DR and it worked after I plugged it back in.
 

Bill Burk

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I thought it was toast too, when I got readings of eu but it was just a “computer connector” that had gotten unplugged when I dropped it, literally just a foot or two down, as it slipped off my belt in its case while I was putting it on.
 
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Ken Bingham

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Thanks for the idea, Bill. This afternoon I got out my jeweler's screwdriver set and took the thing apart. Unfortunately, I didn't see anything obvious. In the meantime, I downloaded a metering program for my Samsung S7 cell phone. So far, it looks like the only thing it can't do is meter the flash from my speed lights when I want to use them with my Mamiya 645. But I think I can work around that issue by setting up the digital controller for my Yongnuo speed lights on my D-3300, setting it for Shutter Priority operation, and then glean the aperture setting from that. Get me in the ballpark, anyway. If I were to try to get the Sekonic repaired, I'm not sure where I'd start looking for a suitable shop, since I live in rural Idaho. Boise? Maybe. But the pickings are slim even for film in Boise, two hours away by road.
 
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Ken Bingham

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Well, I fixed it, sort of. When I had it apart I noticed that the sensor, which is soldered to the main circuit board, was swiveling on one pin. The other pin had broken, somehow. I did the only thing I could thing of: I flowed a bunch of solder over the circuit board where the pin should have just fit in, then swung the sensor back into place, hoping that the pile of solder would make contact with the remaining part of the broken pin. When I got everything back together, the meter worked in ambient mode and the "waiting for flash" mode. I can't get it to fire a speed light when I connect the PC cable, though (maybe I left a wire loose?). And I've found that it works a little more reliably when I press on the case near the meter. It probably sounds like a hassle, and it is. But it's cheaper than buying a new light meter right now. Thanks again to everyone for ideas.
 

Bill Burk

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It adds up, sorry the pin broke at the sensor, those are awful hard to fix.

Would have been so much better if all you had to do was rejoin it to the main board.
 
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Ken Bingham

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I can't figure out how the pin broke, though. I guess sometimes I'm a little rough with my gear, throwing it into a bag and shoving the bag into the trunk of my car before zooming off to the next location or home. When I saw the thing swivel, I thought the same thing you suggest here: hey, all I have to do is re-solder it to the circuit board. But there was nothing to re-solder. I'll try to be more careful in the future, I guess, and try to have less faith in the lasting qualities of technological gizmos.
 

MattKing

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Ken Bingham said:
And I've found that it works a little more reliably when I press on the case near the meter. It probably sounds like a hassle, and it is. But it's cheaper than buying a new light meter
Click to expand...
This makes me suspect that the meter suffered some sort of impact that at least temporarily deformed the exterior casing.
 
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Ken Bingham

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MattKing said:
This makes me suspect that the meter suffered some sort of impact that at least temporarily deformed the exterior casing.
Click to expand...
You're probably right. As I posted above, I'll try to be a better steward of my gear . In the meantime, I'll start saving my pennies for a replacement. There's actually some sun here today (south central Idaho). Maybe I'll load up some film and take the newly-repaired meter out for a spin.
 

MattKing

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With my too too many hand meters, I either use them with their somewhat awkward fitted cases or with pouches in camera bags or jacket pockets that I dedicate to the meter.
The meter is only outside of its dedicated spot when I actually take a reading.
The meter goes into its spot in the camera bag before the bag goes over my shoulder or into the car.
All of my meters have a rotating dial that rotates to a position that indicates the recommended exposure, and then stays in that position until I adjust it further. This allows me to put the meter away and then pull it out again to re-read the recommendations without having to take another reading. If the light is constant, I can take a reading, make all sorts of adjustments to position, framing and focus, and then just double check the meter's recommendations against the camera settings before releasing the shutter.
 
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Ken Bingham

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@MattKing Sounds like good advice. My meter has no moving parts, except for the switches and they're behind plastic bevels, but as I've just learned, that's no reason to be thoughtless. Also, I try to be organized when I'm out shooting, but sometimes my pockets get full (lens caps, various pairs of glasses, notes, and so on). And I'm the kind of guy who puts a tool down one minute and can't find it the next. I'm still learning to juggle all those balls Adams mentions in your signature quotation -- aperture, shutter speed, position of the sun, watch out for potential dangers, both personal and to the negative (photo bombs), shots remaining, so on. But even if I'm not perfectly organized, the practice sessions are gratifying.
 

MattKing

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I have just one piece of advice Ken - extra pockets are your friends!
I try to wear a jacket or vest with extra pockets when I'm out with the cameras.
 
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Ken Bingham

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@MattKing Of course. Makes perfect sense, now that you bring it up. I don't fish much anymore; I wonder if I could re-purpose one of my old fly fishing vests. It's loaded with pockets, zippers, and various nooks and crannies designed to hold fishing gear, but I just wonder if it wouldn't work for photo stuff too. I'll have to dig through the garage and see what I can turn up.
 

MattKing

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I really like fishing vests.
Their only problem is that they look like fishing vests
 
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