Seeking service recommendation for Hasselblad body, lens. backs.

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JosBurke

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I need to get my 503 CX serviced (I'll send my most used 60 mm C* with it)--it had a piece of the film tape get balled up in one of the backs and of course I cranked it a bit too hard. Now the entire mechanism, timing if you will, of the body is a bit out of sync.
It's been setting like this for several years. I don't want to break the bank but just get it fixed from a competent and fairly priced service professional. Of course I'm aware of David Odess but what other options exist
that are competent and fairly priced?
I'm located in KY.
--Joe Burke
 

BrianShaw

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Steve Choi, Steve's Camera Repair in Culver City CA. Check his web site for his impressive credentials. Call or email for his estimate/prices. They tend to respond quickly.
 

BrianShaw

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... but if you want inexpensive... contact Tom1956, who hangs around this and other forums. :laugh:
 

Sirius Glass

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KEH.com
Steve Choi, Steve's Camera Repair in Culver City CA
http://www.david-odess.com/ Dave Odess in Massachusetts does great work on Hasselblads as well
Mike at Samys Camera on Fairfax in Los Angeles CA ==> 431 S. Fairfax Ave.,Los Angeles, CA 90036,Telephone: 323-938-2420

I use Mike most often
 

Tom1956

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I'm working hard on my Hasselblad repair studies, but I'm still working to graduate from the "knucklehead-boob" level.:D

Edit: There's one thing I CAN tell you, is to make it clear to the service people that you want your chassis length on the finished job to be 71.40mm on the money, or infinity will be all fouled up. I've currently got 6 Hasselblad bodies up in rotation on the worktable, and only one of them is nearly dead-on. The others are off, and infinity is all over the place, compared to the ground-glass back I fabricated. Every one of these bodies had undoubtedly been serviced in the past, which goes to show you need to find yourself a very attentive man to do the job. Service "experts" seem to be rarely that.
 
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Sirius Glass

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I'm working hard on my Hasselblad repair studies, but I'm still working to graduate from the "knucklehead-boob" level.:D

Edit: There's one thing I CAN tell you, is to make it clear to the service people that you want your chassis length on the finished job to be 71.40mm on the money, or infinity will be all fouled up. I've currently got 6 Hasselblad bodies up in rotation on the worktable, and only one of them is nearly dead-on. The others are off, and infinity is all over the place, compared to the ground-glass back I fabricated. Every one of these bodies had undoubtedly been serviced in the past, which goes to show you need to find yourself a very attentive man to do the job. Service "experts" seem to be rarely that.

I am sure that if you dedicate yourself to the work at hand, you can end up with six dead camera bodies.
 

Tom1956

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Nope. I've got so far 1 perfect, another one close enough for now, a third is short and I will lengthen it. 1 not opened yet, 1 came DOA, and a 6th I built out of junkbox parts, which is not perfect, but very close. The 6th is an ELM I built by snatching the top off a dead ELM chassis, mounted it in on an EL chassis, and installed it in an ELM body casting. It's so close to being dead-on, I'm going to leave it alone.
 

Tom1956

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Nope. I've got so far 1 perfect, another one close enough for now, a third is short and I will lengthen it. 1 not opened yet, 1 came DOA and needs parts, and a 6th I built out of junkbox parts, which is not perfect, but very close. The 6th is an ELM I built by snatching the top off an unrepairable ELM chassis, mounted it in on an EL chassis, and installed it in an ELM body casting. It's so close to being dead-on, I'm going to leave it alone.
 
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