Searching for the right camera, I NEED YOUR HELP

[Timo Voigt]

Hey guys,

so, im searching for a 35mm film camera and i don't know which i should buy.

For now i only used point and shoot cameras but this doesn't really satisfy me. I need more control over my photos.

I like shooting with an aperture lower than 5.6 so the shutterspeed should be quiet high (yeah i know i can use ND Filters)

So the only thing i need is a "good" shutterspeed, a good lightmeter and an aperture priority.

I have a Voigtländer 35mm f1.4 (Leica M-Mount) which i use on my Digital Camera. This is by far my favourite focal length and my favourite lens. So i want to use this lens on my future film camera. I don't want to spend too much money on the camera so there is no option for a leica.

And there is no option for a Voigtländer Bessa, a Konica Hexar RF oder a Contax G2 or similar cameras (too expensive for me).

So i thought why don't just buy a Canon A1 or even a Canon EOS 5 because i got a good lens, i only need a camera thats working. But i dont know if i catch the focus right on an aperture like 2.8 on cameras like theses (because i don't have any experiences i really cant tell how hard it is to focus on an slr camera)

Do you guys can help me out or give me some advices or even recommandations ?

Thank you so much !

 

[Ariston]

Does that lens adapt to Nikon? If so, pick up an N90S. They are dirt cheap, have a nearly flawless meter, and a top shutter speed of 1/8000.

 

[Timo Voigt]

Does that lens adapt to Nikon? If so, pick up an N90S. They are dirt cheap, have a nearly flawless meter, and a top shutter speed of 1/8000.

i would buy an adapter

 

[AgX]

So i thought why don't just buy a Canon A1 or even a Canon EOS 5 because i got a good lens, i only need a camera thats working. But i dont know if i catch the focus right on an aperture like 2.8 on cameras like theses (because i don't have any experiences i really cant tell how hard it is to focus on an slr camera).

Willkommen!


Manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s typically have a focusing aid, called split-image wedge. These typically allow precise focusing down to aperture F4.
Autofocus SLR cameras typically are lacking such focusing aid.

 

[Kino]

i would buy an adapter

More than likely, this adapter will only support manual operation; no aperture priority function.

 

[Pieter12]

An RF lens does not have a preset aperture and will not be very convenient to use on an SLR. You can compose and focus wide open and take advantage of the 1.4 opening, but to meter and take the photo you will need to stop down to the proper aperture, making the viewfinder quite a bit dimmer. Of course, you can set the aperture and zone focus for street photography, but then you might as well just use the smaller, more convenient RF camera.

 

[Chan Tran]

That lens is for Leica M and won't work on any SLR. The lens must sit very close to the film and all SLR has mount that make the lens sit significantly further from the film. It's possible to adapt provided that the adapter has at least a lens element to correct for the distance but then it won't be as sharp. Better off buy another camera and lens to go with it.

 

[AgX]

More than likely, this adapter will only support manual operation; no aperture priority function.

An RF lens does not have a preset aperture and will not be very convenient to use on an SLR.

Moreover it needs more than a mechanical adapter, but a relay optic to bridge the longer flange-film distance of a SLR.

70s/80s SLRs with high-speed standard lenses are very cheap. But I admit a 35mm F1.4 SLR lens will not be cheap, if available at all.

 

[abruzzi]

If you want a manual focus camera high shutter speed is a priority, I'd recommend the FM2/FE2/FA. They all have the same basic shutter that tops out at 1/4000. Them FM2 is all manual (including the shutter) and doesn't do aperture priority, so it wouldn't work for you. The FE2 is manual or aperture priority with a match needle setup for manual shooting. I believe the shutter requires a battery for most speeds. The FA is not very popular, and thus the cheapest of the bunch. It does aperture priority, and with AIS lenses it also does shutter priority and program mode. Manual is available as well, and it uses an LCD in the viewfinder to show exposure and selected speeds/apertures.

If you can pay a bit more the Nikon FM3a was made in the early 2000's and was the offspring of a mating between the FE2 and the FM2, but usually sells for over $500.

Beyond the above cameras you pretty much need to go to AF cameras to get faster shutter speeds (though I'm sure I'm missing something.) In my experience, AF cameras are harder to manually focus because they don't provide focus aids like manual focus cameras do.

 

[Pieter12]

The Nikon AF cameras I have (D3 and D4) have a focus confirmation indicator in the viewfinder when using the camera in MF mode.

 

[John Koehrer]

The 35 won't give the same coverage on a 35mm camera unless your digital is full frame.
I believe it appears to be a slight telephoto effect.

 

[dxqcanada]

I suggest looking at Olympus OM's, like the OM-2... http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/olympusom1n2/om2/index.htm
Camera and lenses are cheap ... but they made some really great cameras.
Focusing through an SLR viewfinder is easy.

 

[Marco Gilardetti]

That lens is for Leica M and won't work on any SLR. The lens must sit very close to the film and all SLR has mount that make the lens sit significantly further from the film. It's possible to adapt provided that the adapter has at least a lens element to correct for the distance but then it won't be as sharp. Better off buy another camera and lens to go with it.

Agree in full. You either stick to this lens that you seem to like so much and buy a dedicated Voigtlander/Leica camera, or either completely change system.

There is no way, as far as I know, to mount this lens on any SLR without an adapter with at least one additional lens that would make meatballs out of the optical quality of the Voigtlander lens, and without defeating any aperture-priority feature that the SLR body might have.

You're in a loose/loose scenario, you have to radically rethink what you have in mind to do I'm afraid.

 

[AgX]

If you want a manual focus camera high shutter speed is a priority, I'd recommend the FM2/FE2/FA. They all have the same basic shutter that tops out at 1/4000.

I do not understand. For decades photographers have coped with a 1/500 or 1/1000 sec. Unless having to freeze fastest action.
Only in the case of the F1.4 lens a high speed shutter makes sense. But then again for decades phototagrapher have been using such lenses at 1/1000 and still are. Also with 35mm lens, motion blur typically is a lesser issue than with 50mm lenses due to the reduced image scale.

 

[film_man]

As already said, M mount lenses cannot be used on SLRs (digital or film) without an adapter that also has optical elements inside. Without the optics the lens will only be able to focus very close as the lens mount itself acts as an extension tube vs what the lens was designed for (sitting right in front of the film/sensor vs sitting in front of the SLR mirror in front of the film/sensor). These adapters, if they do exist for the camera you buy, will be expensive and will compromise the optical qualitires of the lens.

As a start, what is the budget?

With regards to manual focusing, manual focus cameras will be much better at showing focus on the viewfinder. However there is an exception to this: the Canon EOS 1, 1N, 1V and 3 models can take the Canon Ec-S focus screen which will show focus reaaaaaaaally well, I'd say just as good as the focus screen on the Nikon F3/FM2. My current AF SLR is a EOS 1N with that screen and it is great, not only can you focus manual lenses but you also get all the auto conveniences with AF and stabilised lenses.

So, to summarise....sorry to say but the only way to use your 35/1.4VM is to buy an M body, either of a Leica M, Voigtlander R2/3/4, Zeiss Ikon ZM or the Hexar.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

RF lenses does not work on SLR. Only like close up.
You were able to get digital camera and modern RF lens. Spend sometime to collect some money. And get Bessa R2. Look everywhere and ask everywhere. On forums.

 

[abruzzi]

I do not understand. For decades photographers have coped with a 1/500 or 1/1000 sec. Unless having to freeze fastest action.

high shutter speed was a specific request of the OP.

 

[Chan Tran]

high shutter speed was a specific request of the OP.

The OP said good shutter speed not necessarily high shutter speed. The OP mentioned the Canon A1 which only has 1/1000 shutter speed.

 

[abruzzi]

The OP said good shutter speed not necessarily high shutter speed. The OP mentioned the Canon A1 which only has 1/1000 shutter speed.

From the OP:

I like shooting with an aperture lower than 5.6 so the shutterspeed should be quiet high (yeah i know i can use ND Filters)

(I took "quiet" to be a typo and intended to mean "quite")

 

[AgX]

Sorry. I brought up that issue.
The OP wants high shutter speed as he seemingly wants to use is his 35mm F1.4 lens wide open for esthetic reason
I thought he wanted that F1.4 only for low light and thus wondered about the shutter speed issue.

 

[cowanw]

Or use a lower Asa rated film. Would a Leica Barnack clone and a handheld meter do the job?

 

[Wallendo]

I don't think there is a single camera that meets all the OP's wishlist, so some compromises will be necessary.

A manual focus Canon with a 50mm f1.8 lens would be very inexpensive, as would similar cameras and lenses from Nikon or Minolta.

You may not get the faster shutter speeds of the later AF cameras, but by shooting slower film, a camera with a 1/1000 speed should be more than adequate. B&W films of ISO 50 or lower are readily available such as Pan F 50 (and many people shoot Foma 100 at 50). Color film bottoms out at 100.

To get faster shutter speeds, you may end up with an autofocus camera.Although most of these can be operated in purely manual mode, they are not really designed for that and it can be awkward.

[deleted] - i forgot that a LTM lens can be adapated to a M-mount body, but not the other way around.

 

[cowanw]

Yes my Barnack suggestion was off unless you find a Leica thread mount F1.4.
Wiki has a list of all M mount cameras
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leica_M_mount
You may need to save for a Bessa.

 

[abruzzi]

Color film bottoms out at 100.

mostly, except Velvia 50 and Cinestill 50D.

 

[darkosaric]

Just buy some cheap Nikon body and Nikkor 35mm f2 or f1.4. Difference between Nokton and Nikkor are not world apart, more difference you get in choosing film, developing, scanning and so on.
In that way you will be on the budget, and all needed functions will be there.