See post #34 part 1. Start with the simple plan for now.
Ok, will do. I confess to being confused about this whole photography thing. I thought all you had to do is point a camera at something and mash the shutter.
Ok, will do. I confess to being confused about this whole photography thing. I thought all you had to do is point a camera at something and mash the shutter.
That is all you have to do - assuming your camera has auto-focus and auto-exposure. Some of the results will be improved a bit though if you learn a bit more and apply the knowledge. And if you learn even more, you can fine tune the results a bit more.
Oh by the way, it will help you a lot if instead of mashing the shutter (release), you carefully squeeze the shutter release.
I guess my sense of humor got lost in translation.
Nothing was lost here - your post made me smile.
But one of the hardest things to communicate through the internet is the relative importance of things. That includes learning that in most cases it isn't necessary to sweat the small stuff.
And one of the hardest things to appreciate, once you've learned not to sweat the small stuff, is what constitutes small stuff, and how small, small actually is.
Side note: Create your own DX code label.
Ok, will do. I confess to being confused about this whole photography thing. I thought all you had to do is point a camera at something and mash the shutter.
Ok, good to know, because I probably would have just pointed my camera at a shadow area. I need to look up AA's Zone System so I know what you guys are talking about.
Wouldn;t ISO40 overexpose the highlights in Velvia?
labs know films better than all the photographers who know it all!!
What can you tell me about ISO? For example, why shoot at a different ISO than box speed? Thanks!
Zone System is a way to squeeze/expand the scene dynamic range on film by adjusting both exposure and development for the frame. Mostly applicable when photographing on sheet film but if your lightning conditions stay the same during whole roll you can kinda use it on roll film. Zone system was a solution to get good prints on constant grade darkroom papers and quite much limited film that was produced in the days.
Modern films and multigrade papers are so good combo that only thing you need to take care of is: enough exposure and enough development. In other words: follow the instrucions given by manufacturer. Just forget everything else or you will drop to a rabbit hole where you start questioning everything and yourself and get many many bad negatives. Again.. speaking from my own experiences.
What? Unheard talk on this forum
Take a roll of Kodak or Ilford, shoot it on box speed + develop based on manufacturer datasheet and enjoy photography. Forget everything else. Trust me, I've been there.
That's how I stated in Jr. High School, a Bell and Howell point shoot fixed lens plastic camera with 127 film and M2 flash bulbs. I was doing a shoot in Witchal Falls Tx, 1973 or so, I stopped by the lone camera shop for film. The owner was loading a Hasselblad with a roll of color film, had the set the shutter to 1/125th F stop to F 16, focus at infinity, told the woman not change anything, just crank to the next frame. She and her husband had land with many oil wells, just wanted a really good box camera.
My dad had an Argus C3 that I used. It was fine until a doctor on a canoe trip to Canada that we took, put one foot in our canoe and kept the other on land. Doc did the slow splits and the camera went swimming. End of that. So, dad took me down to a pawn shop in Dayton, OH (around 1972-3) and I bought the SRT-101. I think I shot it at 1/125th and F16 most of the time. I'm not sure what settings I used during the day. I kid, I kid.
How was the doctor?
My dad had an Argus C3 that I used. It was fine until a doctor on a canoe trip to Canada that we took, put one foot in our canoe and kept the other on land. Doc did the slow splits and the camera went swimming. End of that. So, dad took me down to a pawn shop in Dayton, OH (around 1972-3) and I bought the SRT-101. I think I shot it at 1/125th and F16 most of the time. I'm not sure what settings I used during the day. I kid, I kid.
Ha. That describes my photography in the mid-70's. Seriously, I was even one of two yearbook photographers in High School and didn't seem to have any trouble taking good photos. I had my SRT-101 with a 58mm lens bought from a pawn shop that I doubt had ever been serviced. I didn't even know there was such a thing as other lenses. I just stuffed Tri-X in the camera and pulled the trigger. Yes, sometimes simple is best, but it never hurts to learn more than you think you need.
@wiltw checked and you’re right. I remember the Velvia advice was “40” but I also remember the generalized advice to decrease exposure slightly for better saturation. Something sounded wrong. The two recommendations contradict each other. So we need to give context.
They are both correct memories of the advice given by Galen Rowell in Outdoor Photographer magazine. He was talking about two different films.
In context he wrote “I have found it (Velvia 50) i...nstead of shooting it at ISO 64 as I do with Fuji Pro 50 to get richer tones from slight underexposure, I set my camera right on ISO 50 for rich colors and on ISO 40 for more open shadows.
So there you have it: Velvia at 50 or 40 depending…
This has been bothering me for years so glad it’s clear now.
What about the dock? Did it survive?
Almost same here, but 110% shooting Tmax 400 with Tmax developer. I didn't understand why to use anything else. My negatives were easy to print. It was only some years ago when I started film photography again and realized what the "multigrade" in paper box means. Back in the days I thought it was just some marketing yadayada. Nobody told me!
My negatives started to go much worse when I started to "push" or try some "awesome" developing techniques which I thought make my photographs so much better. They didn't. Actually I ruined many good shots. Can I forgive myself?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?